I just got my trailer wiring kit from etrailer. One thing that surprises me is the need to connect it to 12v power. I've never had to do that before. I just spliced into the wires at the rear of the car.

It's the TowReady ModuLite kit, #118151.

Why a 12v connection?

 

So you can power the trailer lights separately and not overload the stock wiring harness. You need to run it off its own separate fuse. Check my thread. I have all the details of the exacy module you have.

 

Good idea. Can you give me a link to your wiring? I remember seeing it before, but I couldn't re-find it. I'd like to have the plug in the spare tire well, so it's out of the way.

 

Is the Fit 2-wire or 3-wire?

 

The Fit is three wire. Separate reverse and turn signal lights. Brake and tail tights are separate circuits but the same bulb.

I have videos, pictures and descriptions in my thread. Let me know.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-generation-2015/84145-2015-ex-6mt-crystal-black-pearl.html

 

Thanks. I think I'll run a 12v wire to the rear and add another 12v outlet at the same time.

 

That's exactly what I did as I will be putting another dashboard cam on the back window to monitor the trailer as I'm towing.

now if ducttapemaster can figure out the HDMI lockout issue then I will run a long HDMI cord to the front so I can monitor the trailer activity

 

it is not so much needed for an overload on the stock wiring as it is needed to separate the circuits. you can easily daisy chain some led's on a trailer off the stock wiring with no worry about burning up the wiring or fuses.

i have had 2 s2000's with trailer hitches. the first one i used the non powered trailer box. if i used the cruise control, and put on the blinker, the cheaper non powered box would back feed the *slightest* amount of current to the brake wire and cause cruise to shut off. on my current s2000, i used the powered box and everything works as designed.

 

Thanks. I'll follow the directions and use the power wire.

 

Possible, but as you pointed out any extra load to the circuit can cause glitches. The added resistance of an LED may or may not cause problems. A solid state relay usually has a fairly high resistance as its only activating the gate of a transistor, which means low amperage, and little load to the stock system. I'd prefer safe than sorry. Electrical problems can be a real pain in the arse to track down.


For example, I connected my brake controller to the auxillery fuse panel. Turns out every time I used the sun roof the controller would reset due to the momentary current draw/voltage drop of the motor. Didn't realize I put the add a fuse kit on the 20 amp fuse to the sun roof. Moved the kit to an open space and didn't have that issue any longer with the controller. I was scratching my head on it for some time before figuring it out.

 

Adding another fuse panel, attached directly to the battery, can be a nuisance, but you'll know you're using 12v directly from the source. I have two. One is always active, and the other is turned on and off by a switch on the dash.

 

Agreed, I have a 6 space auxiliary fuse panel, but doesn't fit the low profile ATM fuses. I'll eventually switch out the add a fuse kits with this panel, likely when the weather is warmer. Right now everything works as needed.

Since installing my heated side mirrors I've gotten pretty good at snaking the wires through the grommets via an old coat hanger

 

Right. Mine is the same - large fuses

 

I took a look at the wiring yesterday, and I seem to have several green and yellow wires there. The wires are surprisingly thin. It's 6° outside, so I don't want to spend much time out there. Can you give me specifics on the wire colors?

 

Function----------Light Unit----------Honda Fit EX

Taillight------------Brown-----------------Grey
Brake Light----------Red---------------Light Green
Left Turn-----------Yellow----------------Yellow
Right Turn----------Green-----------------Green
Reverse------------N/A-----------------Brown

 

Thanks. I'm going out again in a few minutes.

 

For those who's installing trailer hitch/wiring, how much load/weight will you be towing including the trailer?

Are you installing Class I or II hitch?

 

This is what I'm getting. It should be here on Saturday. They have a video of the installation for a 2015 Fit. A couple of days ago, I got an email with a PDF of installation directions. I'll be pulling a lightweight 1969 Skidoo flatbed trailer, measuring about 6 X 8'.

https://shop.tlcentral.com/store/pc/...ch-2-p3214.htm

 

I will be pulling a Kawi standup ski on an el-cheapo super light trailer shown below.



Escalade with 6.0L used to be my tow vehicle - yes, it was an overkill.

 

Mine will be a 5x8ft utility trailer. Details on my other thread. The hitch is a Curt Class I hitch rated up to 2k gross (trailer and cargo weight) My purposes will likely never exceed 800 pounds of cargo. More than likely less.


The Trailer has electric brakes and a 3500 pound axle. Overkill for my needs but provides way better stopping power than one without. Here is the thread and picture of me test towing a 1200 pound 5x10 trailer.


https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...ack-pearl.html