Hello,

I installed the led kit last week. I have it tapped to the rear right power window fuse (20A) via a Add-a-circuit (which has a 10A fuse)

It's working well. However, I wonder if it's safe since the total is 30A. What is the max output of a fuse slot? I do not want to use a constant source, but can't seem to find a better option for a switched source.

There are some empty fuse slots, but I'm not sure which one is a spare switched fuse

Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

Doesn't it identify what each fuse is for on the fuse chart located on the bottom of the steering column?

 

Yes. That's how I located the rear right power window fuse. Right now on the add-a-circuit, there are 2 fuses: 20A and 10A. So, I wonder if it's safe since I'm not sure about the max output of that slot.

The manual doesn't say anything about those empty fuse slots >.<

 

The empty fuse slots are either constant on, or some of them are ignition switched on.


Each fuse slot can handle a max of 20 amps continuous. Anything larger like the rear defroster which is ~25 amps or so continuous is in a separate fuse panel. The aux panel has a main fuse rating of 40A, yet if you add up all the fuses in the panel it goes way beyond that number. Its the difference of constant duty vs intermittent duty.


The rear power window is anywhere from 10-15 amps when in use, but its not constant duty obviously. LEDs take almost no current at all. if anything you likely don't even need a 10 amp fuse. Prolly get away with a 5 or 7.5 amp. You should be just fine




FYI: my brake controller for my trailer requires a 30A fuse. However it only needs that when you have more than one axle of electric brakes. My trailer barely pulls 15 amps when intensity is set to high. Its a single axle trailer.


Another advantage tapping power for intermittent duty devices is the fact that the aux panel is tapped after the ELD. That's the electric load detector. Any load placed on that panel and the alternator compensates for the load draw. if you drew amperage directly from the battery it would not respond to the load. Eventually it would respond to the voltage drop but that's not as immediate.

 

Thank you so much. Glad to know it's safe. I'm a big noob when it comes to electrical stuff

 

You should be fine unless someone is messing with the back window all the time! I need to find a map of which empty fuse spots are constant and which ones are ignition off.