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Our new 2019 Honda Fit EX, just two weeks old, and having 250 miles on it..is getting amazing gas mileage. I took this picture today of the dash gas results. We run our tires at 40 psi, and do mostly highway miles. But we live in the Rocky Mountains, so gas mileage can vary.
The 50 mpg was for a short 22 miles, but mostly flat and driving at 65 mph. The other mileages are when driving at 75 mph.
The info below is about our old 2008 Fit, which we sold to a friend who wanted it very badly. He drives it every day to work, about 150 miles return. He loves the car.
At this point I suspect that the difference is the ECON button. The drop doesn't happen with the manual, so it's specific to the CVT and the higher trims, so my assumption without any further information is that the LX comes with the ECON mode enabled by default and the higher ones don't. That's the only thing I can think of that makes sense given the info we have available.
Also if I can ask what condition was your '08 in and how much did you sell it for?
Thanks, Guys. Our new 2019 F is an automatic, and we do drive it mostly in Econ mode. But we also have the paddle shifters, which we use quite a bit because we live in the mountains.
Our 2008 Fit was in great shape....and only 59 K miles. We sold it to a friend for 6K even....easy sale. So when you subtract that from the 19 700 for the new one, it makes the switch to be very economical.
I agree. My butt receptors have detected the difference, however. :P And I also weighed the wheels.
I used to own a 2000 corolla and when I switched from 14inch steelies to 17inch wheels I really noticed the difference. The engine simply worked harder to get the car going and overtaking at hwy speeds became more difficult for sure. Any added rotational weight (wheel-wise) will definitely make a difference. But the difference from 36lbs/wheel to 40lbs/wheel is rather small, so not so easy to detect or feel.
I had actually been planning on getting lighter wheels, but I figured I'd mention this here in case anyone else was considering doing so as well. I did some poking around last night and the rule of thumb that I've seen is that you multiply the weight reduction of wheels by 10 to get the rough amount of gains that you'll get by changing wheel weight. So 4 pounds per wheel is 16 pounds which means it's the equivalent of adding/removing 160 pounds from your car. Those 17 inch wheels probably weighed considerably more than 4 pounds more, so you probably lost a LOT on that change.
Of course it also needs to be pointed out, since someone probably will, that the DISTRIBUTION of weight is as important as the amount. If all the weight is in the middle it's a lot better than if it's all on the outside, which is why getting larger wheels is a bad idea, since it increases the distance from the center of the wheel to the outer rim.
Right now I'm looking at wheels that are about 6 pounds lighter than stock, so that would be a inertia differential of roughly 240 pounds, which should make a huge difference in city driving efficiency and going up and down hills while I'm doing my deliveries.
As an add-on to my previous post I found this: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ar...really-better/ they gained a quarter second in 0-60 time by switching to 11 pound lighter wheels AFTER ballasting the car to get the total car weight back up to where it started. So the car weighed the same, it was just less rotating mass.
Remember that that's not just good for performance, it's good for efficiency in city driving where you are constantly doing stop-and-go. Really everyone should probably look into that and I'm surprised that factory light wheels aren't an option.
They used to be. Civic VX or HX. Those wheels carried a nice premium on the used market in the 10 years after, and only partially because they improved MPG
