anyone had this happen to them? only have 69k miles, dealer told me I need a new tranny. Brought it in initially cause of shifting issues..

 

wow, what model year is your car?

 

2015 with 69k miles

 

Wow, looks like the CVT self destructed.

My 2016 has 53K mi. and the MM came on around 50K for the CVT fluid change, which I did.

Curious - did yours have the MM come on yet at 69K?

If it did and the fluid was changed then, was anything amiss?

 

I'm really floored at all of these Honda issues at mileage less than 200K. Unheard of. I definitely would contact American Honda to tell them of this and see what they suggest.

 

Honda recommends CVT service at 50k? Any idea how yours came out? I'm usually pretty good working on my own cars, but the CVT fluid change doesn't seem as simple as a MT fluid change. Probably just take it to Honda and have them do it

 

My MM came on a few hundred miles before 60K. I chose to let Honda do it as it would be covered in the 60K power train warranty in case there were any issues. I'm now at 83K and still running well.

The CVT change just appears to be a drain and fill.

 

Honda's are easy - try doing an ATF refill on a BMW "lifetime fill". The fluid has to reach a specific temperature to get the volume correct - in effect you need to idle the car while filling and cap the overflow when it reaches temperature (IIRC 85 °F). The most important items are: (1) car is level in x-y axis, (2) correct HCF-2 fluid, (3) refill until it overflows, (4) use a new crush washer to prevent future leaks from the port, (5) torque crush washer/bolt to spec.

 

Honda leaves the CVT fluid change up to the maintenance minder and doesn't have a "replace by xxx miles" policy as far as I know. I had mine done at the dealership on a coupon and don't know what it looked like.

You can do the CVT fluid change yourself. Trick is to loosen the fill cap before you release the drain plug. If you don't loosen the fill cap first, the pressure is not equalized and the fluid will glug out instead of a steady stream when you release the drain.

 

I was always told that you slightly loosen the fill plug first to make sure that you can actually get it out. If you just drain the oil first and then find that you can't get the fill plug out because it's rusted in place or you don't have the right wrench then you're going to have a really big problem with an empty transmission that you can't put the fluid back in to.

Incidentally does anyone know what size(s) the crush washers are for the three plugs (drain/level/fill) on the CVT ?