Interesting I've heard different.
I just bought my car and the intake service was just performed. So I was planning on doing it on the second oil change or in the Spring of next year. And doing it every Spring moving forward.
Cheers.

 

Oil catch can and a couple balls of steel wool is what you need. Put one on a week after purchasing the 2016 with 27k miles on it.

 

Yes, stainless steel scouting pads help catch cans trap more gunk. As with all products there is a wide range of catch can designs and quality. Some work well; many do not.

 

It's been discussed, many different types of oil catch can installed in the thread I listed below including my own, cheap or expensive. You just need to get something there to minimize oil returning back into the manifold via the PCV. I dumped half a cup of gooey stuff out after 1 oil change. It works. I'll be pulling the intake manifold next year to inspect the valves. I even have a catch can on my port injection 07 Accord V6 with over 320k miles, it keeps the intake manifold clean and the front bank of the V6 engine's spark plugs clean.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...edition-3.html

 

Thanks for the recommendations here. I will also be installing an oil catch can w/steel wool. I did the GDI cleaner last night just try it, car is running great, for it's a Honda . No difference in "power" or economy as the intake service was done. I was getting 43MPG so far on this tank.

 

Good to hear! How many miles are on the car? And how did the GDI service go?

 

Car has 50K miles

The worst part is standing over the hood and spraying... You get into a rythm of keeping the idle down at 1000RPM by injecting just enough GDI Intake valve cleaner to choke it out some. I used the Seafoam product as It's done me well in other engines in the past.

After heat soak (out of contents in the can, kill the engine and remove the spray line and reconnect everything). The exhuast puffed out a big cloud of white smoke. I than ran the car hard up the mountain for 10 minutes as instructed, for the first few minutes there was a vape trail of white from the car. Cleared out and the car ran great.

I think just doing the GDI spray annually or every 10K miles (whatever comes first) will be more than adequate es specially with an oil catch can installed.

Love this little Honda....

Cheers!

 

Man! Sorry to hear about all this. Let us know what you end up doing and how it goes. Best of luck

 

your answer makes sense. The intake valves, without the constant wash of gasoline from a TBI system oil vapors can deposit thru out the intake. especially considering all the cold air mixing in. The oil vapor catch can should help.

 

I have heard this, or something similar, about switching from 89 octane gas to 91 octane gas. But I have my doubts.

Question: If you think chemical cleaners will dislodge bits of hard deposits, what do you think walnut shells will do? Serious question.

Note: I rushed out to buy a '13 Fit MT in 2015 because I don't like no DI engines. Just don't like 'em.

 

The idea with the walnut shells is that they get sprayed against the valve deposits one cylinder at a time, after the crank is manually rotated so that cylinder's valves are closed. You use a shop vac to suck up the walnut media and the broken deposits as it's sprayed, so after each set of valves is cleaned, there's no debris left to enter the cylinder.

Not sure if that's what you meant.

 

I could see how the shop vac part would work if we were talking about a perfectly dry surface. I can't see it working inside an oily engine. But I guess it does because people are doing it.

 

There's a number of YouTube videos on this walnut blasting subject including this one on a Mini engine. It shows some of the specialty tools used and briefly mentions the walnut residue issue. And yeah, he is using a shop vac.

 

@woof: Very good video. Thanks.

 

The Techs get paid off the work they do, regardless of whether it’s under warranty or if the customer pays.

To me this sounds like the techs scamming HONDA. I’ll bet that’s not really what was wrong with your car.
They probably did a more simple repair, but were able to get paid for far more work based on their false report, or they might’ve done all that work even though it wasn’t necessary just to make more money. They figure you won’t question it because you’re not paying anything, Honda motor company is.

 

The instructions I saw for the CRC product said to keep the rpms at 2000. How do you actuate the throttle from the engine bay? seems like it's drive by wire, right? Does someone need to be in the cabin pushing the pedal?

 

The intake port is generally dry. Walnut shell is a soft enough abrasive that bits of dust left over do no damage to the engine.

The image from Honda's TSB for intake port cleaning shows what they consider an acceptable level of walnut shell dust after cleaning.

Whatever residue is in the intake port will get quickly sucked into the combustion chamber, burned and expelled through the exhaust.

I've linked the TSB from NHTSA.gov

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...15233-0001.pdf

 

Yeah, there's nothing tobworry about from the walnut blasting that Honda does. I've done enough of them to attest to how well it works. It leaves behind very minimal residue, and it's easy enough to remove the intake manifold to access the valves. It's unfortunate that it needs to be done at all, but Honda at least made it easy to do so. I need to do mine soon, I'll probably go in for the injector TSB at the same time, as well as pull the valve cover and do an adjustment.

 

That TSB apparently doesn't apply to the 2015 Fits. Does anyone know why? I have a 2015.

 

The injector TSB? It should apply to 15s.