When you are in D and on the brakes, against a wall or an incline the torque convert is engaged but continuously slipping?

 

You are right that the torque converter is actively operating in such situation but I would not call it slipping as there is no mechanical contact to transfer the torque, just the fluid. That's why torque converters are practically indestructible if the transmission has oil and it's changed according to instructions.
To be precise, torque converter is always engaged, but effectively it rotates almost freely when that transmission is in neutral.

 

I made a mistake there regarding how to shift from drive to park. What I said is entirely wrong.

The correct method is (1) With the car in Drive stop the forward motion of the car with the foot brake. (2) With your foot still on the foot brake, put move the shift lever from Drive to Park (3) With your foot still on the foot brake pull up on the parking brake. (4) Take your foot off of the foot brake. You're done.

Note: The alternative method that I see many people using, that however puts more stress on, and causes more wear to, the pawl and the notched shaft in the transmission that keeps the car from rolling when the shift lever is in the Park position, goes like this: (1) With the car in Drive they stop the forward motion of the car with the foot brake. (2) With their foot still on the foot brake, they move the shift lever from Drive to Park. (3) Then they take their foot off of the foot brake. (4) They're done! No parking brake! (5) Or if they are not done, optionally, with their foot now off of the foot brake, they pull up on the parking brake. What's wrong about this is that it is best to pull up on the parking brake before taking one's foot off of the foot brake. If the parking brake is not set before taking taking one's foot off of the foot brake, and if the transmission is in Park at the time that one takes their foot off of the foot brake, and if the car is on any sort of incline at all at that time, then when one takes their foot off of the foot brake, the car will roll forward or backward until the pawl springs out and engages with one of the notches in the notched shaft – with the full weight of the car behind this motion. The pawl will slam hard against the forward or trailing edge of the notch. You can do this many times without causing noticeable damage but it does cause some wear, wear that you would not have if you set the parking brake before moving the shift lever from D to P.

I'm not sure how I got it my explanation wrong the first time. I think there must have been a glitch somewhere during the process of transferring my muscle memory to my language control center.

 

What's the difference between applying the parking brake before or after going into Park, I don't see how either method gets a different end result, which is not to load the Park mechanism with the weight of the vehicle?

 

I was reading the Owners manual the other day and Honda's recommendation is Park brake first and then put it into Park.

 

On my Mk2 CVT I find on harder acceleration at low speeds the drive feels a bit rattley much like lugging the engine sounds, at higher speeds when you accelerate it just pulls and is very quiet. That's on the 1.3(same engine as the 1.4).

The Mk1 1.4 DSI CVT I drove seemed to be the opposite, less noise at the lower speeds but very noisy at highway speeds(which I have read is a common complaint). Probably due to the low down torque of the 1.4 DSI engine.

Anyone else noticed the above when it comes to CVT gearbox noise?

 

I always put it in P before I put on the the park brake. But I do this while having the brake pedal firmly pressed. I don't let go of the brake pedal until I've engaged the parking brake. I suppose this is all the same effect, to not let the vehicle bounce around while in Park

 

I would also think doing it that way achieves the same thing.