Cascading Electrical Issues
Cascading Electrical Issues
Good morning (depending on where you are) all!
This past week I had my 2018 EX-L in for service and since then, I've had an odd cascading electrical issue. Everything works fine then the tail lights go out, then the stereo, then the dash and headlights. This all happens within about 15 minutes from start to finish. We hear a whine from under the hood, which I'm guessing is the alternator. If you turn the car off for 15 minutes, it's fine for another day or so. Honda can't find any issues (no codes) and of course blame the under-seat subwoofer (180W) and the LED headlight bulbs to claim that they are "overloading" the alternator. These items have been in the car since 2018 and the problem started the night directly following the service visit.
Now, we're not trying to do an "ever since you" to the dealership, but anyone seen these issues so I can give them an idea as to what may be ACTUALLY happening?
TIA.
This past week I had my 2018 EX-L in for service and since then, I've had an odd cascading electrical issue. Everything works fine then the tail lights go out, then the stereo, then the dash and headlights. This all happens within about 15 minutes from start to finish. We hear a whine from under the hood, which I'm guessing is the alternator. If you turn the car off for 15 minutes, it's fine for another day or so. Honda can't find any issues (no codes) and of course blame the under-seat subwoofer (180W) and the LED headlight bulbs to claim that they are "overloading" the alternator. These items have been in the car since 2018 and the problem started the night directly following the service visit.
Now, we're not trying to do an "ever since you" to the dealership, but anyone seen these issues so I can give them an idea as to what may be ACTUALLY happening?
TIA.
If not the alternator, I suspect the voltage regulator. Did the shop test it? If they didn't, you can test it yourself. You'll need a multimeter and a helper. Looking for ~2V more at 1500 rpm in neutral than whatever your open-circuit reads at idle.
You didn't mention what service was just performed, whether it related to the electrical system or not. I'm guessing not.
As to whether the aftermarket accessories have anything to do with the current issue, only one way to find out: Disconnect the subwoofer, reinstall the OEM bulbs, and see if the problem persists.
You didn't mention what service was just performed, whether it related to the electrical system or not. I'm guessing not.
As to whether the aftermarket accessories have anything to do with the current issue, only one way to find out: Disconnect the subwoofer, reinstall the OEM bulbs, and see if the problem persists.
We're going to disconnect the subwoofer and put the old bulbs back in, I'm sure it won't get us anywhere as the idea that an increase of UP to 180W on the sub and a DECREASE of around 40W on the bulbs, I can't imagine that there aren't a spare 11 amps on the alternator to cover those items.
As for the service done, brakes, oil change, filters.
As for the service done, brakes, oil change, filters.
My 2007 Odyssey did that. It was due to the lock on the driver door sticking just enough that when the locks auto locked, the little knob wouldn't actually go down. Apparently the system used the position of this lock to tell if the doors needed to auto lock or not. I could verify this by physically pushing the knob down. When I did this, the system would stop trying to auto lock over and over. Not sure if yours is related, but I thought I would share just in case.
My 2007 Odyssey did that. It was due to the lock on the driver door sticking just enough that when the locks auto locked, the little knob wouldn't actually go down. Apparently the system used the position of this lock to tell if the doors needed to auto lock or not. I could verify this by physically pushing the knob down. When I did this, the system would stop trying to auto lock over and over. Not sure if yours is related, but I thought I would share just in case.
My 2007 Odyssey did that. It was due to the lock on the driver door sticking just enough that when the locks auto locked, the little knob wouldn't actually go down. Apparently the system used the position of this lock to tell if the doors needed to auto lock or not. I could verify this by physically pushing the knob down. When I did this, the system would stop trying to auto lock over and over. Not sure if yours is related, but I thought I would share just in case.
So was the piece you moved to fix the problem this piece in the door that moves with the door handle.
Or is there a knob in here. Do I open this piece up and fix something In here?
once again thanks man for answering!
There's not much to do with the switches themselves as they are pretty solidly built. I took mine apart to change the color of the indicator lights. They are solidly built. I suppose if they every got wet that might cause some issues but it would take a lot of water to screw up those switches.
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