What about Aftermarket Car Audio and the Honda Fit? Not seeing much here.
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What about Aftermarket Car Audio and the Honda Fit? Not seeing much here.
I just brought a 2019 Honda Fit EX. Love the car. I've wanted one for a long time but I brought a Nissan Versa Note instead but it got totaled so now I have the Honda Fit but I want to install a aftermarket audio system in it and I want to get some ideas of what can be done.
The Honda Fit has the factory infortainment system but its pretty lame with no HD Radio or high definition music file playing capability. It does have Apple CarPay but I want MORE. The Door speakers are 'Ok' for the average listener but for an audiophile like myself they just don't cut it. I'm looking to install some Hertz Mille Pro Series MPX-1653 6.5 speakers in the front doors and come Hertz Coaxials in the back door powered by a 5 channel amp for a less complicated installation with a 10" JL Audio subwoofer in the back. I need to know this
1. To use the factory Head Unit I'll need to use a Line Output Converter like this one
LC5i PRO 5 CHANNEL LINE OUT CONVERTER WITH ACCUBASS
to connect it to a external amp so I can keep the backup and Lane watch cameras but can an aftermarket head unit do the same thing and if so what make? Pioneer, Kenwood etc.
2. Where would be a good location for mounting an external amplifier?
3. The 2019 Honda Fit EX has a 105 amp alternator. How much wattage can I install with an external amp that won't overpower the electical system?
4. Can I replace the factory alternator with a High output alternator like this one
220A High Output Alternator for Honda Fit, 2017 - 2020 1.5L L4
for higher wattage amps without damaging the rest of the electrical systems, vehicles computers etc.
5. I was thinking of replacing the 151r battery with a larger 51r AGM battery, any issues there?
If you installed any aftermarket car audio componnets and/or systems in the 3rd Gen Honda Fit I'd like to know what you did and how your installation went. Pictures would be nice as well.
The Honda Fit has the factory infortainment system but its pretty lame with no HD Radio or high definition music file playing capability. It does have Apple CarPay but I want MORE. The Door speakers are 'Ok' for the average listener but for an audiophile like myself they just don't cut it. I'm looking to install some Hertz Mille Pro Series MPX-1653 6.5 speakers in the front doors and come Hertz Coaxials in the back door powered by a 5 channel amp for a less complicated installation with a 10" JL Audio subwoofer in the back. I need to know this
1. To use the factory Head Unit I'll need to use a Line Output Converter like this one
LC5i PRO 5 CHANNEL LINE OUT CONVERTER WITH ACCUBASS
to connect it to a external amp so I can keep the backup and Lane watch cameras but can an aftermarket head unit do the same thing and if so what make? Pioneer, Kenwood etc.
2. Where would be a good location for mounting an external amplifier?
3. The 2019 Honda Fit EX has a 105 amp alternator. How much wattage can I install with an external amp that won't overpower the electical system?
4. Can I replace the factory alternator with a High output alternator like this one
220A High Output Alternator for Honda Fit, 2017 - 2020 1.5L L4
for higher wattage amps without damaging the rest of the electrical systems, vehicles computers etc.
5. I was thinking of replacing the 151r battery with a larger 51r AGM battery, any issues there?
If you installed any aftermarket car audio componnets and/or systems in the 3rd Gen Honda Fit I'd like to know what you did and how your installation went. Pictures would be nice as well.
Last edited by airman23; May 21, 2025 at 03:43 AM.
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Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 161
From: PA, USA
1. There are aftermarkets out there that can follow along. IDK about lane assist, but backup definitively. In all honesty, mirrors are fine. Lane assist was a nod towards autonomous driving. You really don't need it. LOCs generally aren't audiophile quality either - puts higher resistances on output lines, causing a decrease in quality at drivers, throws things out of whack in general on the power side of things... Not a fan.... Go aftermarket if you can and route direct. No piggybacking. I've had good experiences with Kenwood, but that was years ago.
2. Wherever is cool and safe for the wiring - plenty of room in the trunk. Possibly glove box if you're up for that.
3, 4. W= V * A. So for a 2000 Watt amp at 12 v you're looking at around 167 amp draw... Recalibration of idle learn expected after new alternator. I'd make sure the new alternator can properly attenuate field excitement also so as to not burn anything up. With extra output and bad attenuation, it'll have some issues, don't ask how I know -expect to engineer a little and stay away from capacitors.
5. An extra battery wouldn't hurt though and I highly recommend the 51R. It cycles the battery too much which is ridiculous, though does save a small amount of fuel here and there. I had a "Gold" tier advance auto battery fail in 2 years because of it, switched right to the 51 and replaced my voltage regulator in the alternator, very pleased with the performance and voltage drops would be smoother transitioned with deep cycle batteries if you plan on drawing lots of current. LAs don't like drainage, just float voltage range.
I'd go two deep cycles, one in engine bay and one in rear at least to keep voltage levels stable. Maybe run the original alternator first, see how it performs with your amplifier.
Realistically said and done, if you really are after a higher quality system, good mids and maybe a woofer with an aftermarket unit should do the trick. Maybe a 1000w max woofer setup but sound quality is of the utmost. You can get a lot out of a properly designed ported woofer enclosure... Tweeters are optional, but with equalization and a proper midrange, possible woofer, you can get pretty darned good I'd say. Good luck let us know how you make out
2. Wherever is cool and safe for the wiring - plenty of room in the trunk. Possibly glove box if you're up for that.
3, 4. W= V * A. So for a 2000 Watt amp at 12 v you're looking at around 167 amp draw... Recalibration of idle learn expected after new alternator. I'd make sure the new alternator can properly attenuate field excitement also so as to not burn anything up. With extra output and bad attenuation, it'll have some issues, don't ask how I know -expect to engineer a little and stay away from capacitors.
5. An extra battery wouldn't hurt though and I highly recommend the 51R. It cycles the battery too much which is ridiculous, though does save a small amount of fuel here and there. I had a "Gold" tier advance auto battery fail in 2 years because of it, switched right to the 51 and replaced my voltage regulator in the alternator, very pleased with the performance and voltage drops would be smoother transitioned with deep cycle batteries if you plan on drawing lots of current. LAs don't like drainage, just float voltage range.
I'd go two deep cycles, one in engine bay and one in rear at least to keep voltage levels stable. Maybe run the original alternator first, see how it performs with your amplifier.
Realistically said and done, if you really are after a higher quality system, good mids and maybe a woofer with an aftermarket unit should do the trick. Maybe a 1000w max woofer setup but sound quality is of the utmost. You can get a lot out of a properly designed ported woofer enclosure... Tweeters are optional, but with equalization and a proper midrange, possible woofer, you can get pretty darned good I'd say. Good luck let us know how you make out
Last edited by 2015LXFIT; May 25, 2025 at 05:00 AM.
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