Oil Catch Can
Oil Catch Can
I have recently seen a couple of YouTube videos about installing Oll Catch Cans on Gen 3 Fits. Is this a really good idea, and if so. Does someone have a recommendation of a brand and the best place to mount it?
Thank you for confirming it is a good idea to add an oil catch can.
However, it turns out California frowns on any modification to the pollution control system and will automaticallyfail the smog test. Of course I could remove it ever two yearsprior to my mandatory ssmog test.
However, it turns out California frowns on any modification to the pollution control system and will automaticallyfail the smog test. Of course I could remove it ever two yearsprior to my mandatory ssmog test.
It's the same as
I've had one on my 2018 Sport 6MT for the last year. I dump it about once every 6 weeks and it's got 1-2oz of watery oily garbage in there.
^ That's the one yes. Put 2 balls of stainless steel wool in there. This slows down carbon deposit on top of the valves, but you still need to clean the valves in the future, just not as bad. I just finished cleaning the valves last weekend, at 130k miles.
You don't need to install one, just be ready to clean the valves when it comes time to do it. The PCV valve is misting oil back into the intake plenum, and there are no port injected fuel injectors cleaning off the top of the valves.
Last edited by t-rd; Jul 23, 2025 at 09:46 AM.
@newengland72 Thanks. 
@t-rd Tell us, if you would, how the valve cleaning went.
@woof I'm not a fan of catch cans, either. But as @t-rd said, everyone is going to have to clean their valves because the mfr.s have forced direct injection on us.

@t-rd Tell us, if you would, how the valve cleaning went.

@woof I'm not a fan of catch cans, either. But as @t-rd said, everyone is going to have to clean their valves because the mfr.s have forced direct injection on us.

The valve cleaning took 4 hours. I do not have a $400 walnut blaster + intake port adapter to do it easily. I used the combo of brake cleaner + CRC intake valve cleaner + bunch of towels + a long pick. Most of the time is spent waiting for fluid to soak and softening up the carbon deposits, then pick scraping and wiping. It's not perfect but it is good enough with the method I used. If you don't feel like installing a catch can to minimizing pcv oil misting back then you either get rid of the car before check engine light comes on due to valves not closing completely or you have a shop do it for you for an exorbitant amount of money. Both the intake manifold and valve cover need to come off for the job to be done properly.
The valve cleaning took 4 hours. I do not have a $400 walnut blaster + intake port adapter to do it easily. I used the combo of brake cleaner + CRC intake valve cleaner + bunch of towels + a long pick. Most of the time is spent waiting for fluid to soak and softening up the carbon deposits, then pick scraping and wiping. It's not perfect but it is good enough with the method I used. If you don't feel like installing a catch can to minimizing pcv oil misting back then you either get rid of the car before check engine light comes on due to valves not closing completely or you have a shop do it for you for an exorbitant amount of money. Both the intake manifold and valve cover need to come off for the job to be done properly.
I know carbon buildup is a thing that happens over time but how do you know when it’s time to service the valves? Like how do you know when you should take a look with a boroscope?
You cannot really borescope into the intake valves because intake manifold is in the way. You need to remove the intake manifold to see the top of the valves via the head's intake ports. You can borescope through the spark plug tubes which I also did to see the condition of the top of the pistons, they looked great by the way.
I know it's time to clean the valves because I removed the intake manifold and valve cover to replace the VTC spring to fix the VTC rattle, while there, I saw the conditions of the valves requiring cleanup.
I know it's time to clean the valves because I removed the intake manifold and valve cover to replace the VTC spring to fix the VTC rattle, while there, I saw the conditions of the valves requiring cleanup.
Last edited by t-rd; Jul 24, 2025 at 11:07 AM.
@t-rd Thanks for that report, t. I'm just wondering about walnut blasting the valves or scraping on the valves with a pick. It's concerning enough (for a know-nothing driveway mechanic like me) that you have to worry that the valves are closed when you do the work, but do you also have to be cautious with the valves when you are picking and scraping on them?
You are scraping on top of the valves and stems and not on the portion that contacts with the head, that's where the valves are lapped. When the valves are completely closed, you are not touching that portion of the valves that seal with the head. That's why it's important you open up the valve cover and make sure you are at TDC for whatever cylinder's intake valves you are cleaning. The marks are on the rear cam sprocket. For each 90 degree turn of the sprocket, a set of intake+exhaust valves are fully closed. And while you are scraping, you are not hardcore going at it. I used a long pick with a spoon shape tip, not a pointy tip. The carbon deposit is soft once you soak it with cleaner + brake clean, easy to scrape off.
I spent a measly $40 on this, can of brake clean, can of CRC intake valve cleaner, shop towels, a set of long picks from Amazon, and an afternoon of free time in my garage.
I spent a measly $40 on this, can of brake clean, can of CRC intake valve cleaner, shop towels, a set of long picks from Amazon, and an afternoon of free time in my garage.
@t-rd @newengland72 how do you have the catch can mounted, and are you using the bracket that came with the kit, or did you make your own?
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