Won't Start
Won't Start
My son's 2020 Fit (104,000 miles) is sitting in a parking lot in town. After work, he pushed the START button. All the regular dash lights lit up, but they flickered, and there was some kind of clicking noise. I wasn't there, so I can't give you any more info. The "clicking" sounds like it could be a bad battery connection. However, a coworker tried to jump start it with no luck. If you can offer any suggestions before I go in and give it a try, I'd appreciate it.
Clicking could be a bad solenoid on the starter trying to engage.
Could also be the start switch. These are known for early burnout. Apparently Honda didn't design a robust enough circuit for pushbutton start.
We've heard reports that some Honda dealers are goodwilling the start switch, but not the starter.
Could also be the start switch. These are known for early burnout. Apparently Honda didn't design a robust enough circuit for pushbutton start.
We've heard reports that some Honda dealers are goodwilling the start switch, but not the starter.
Clicking could be a bad solenoid on the starter trying to engage.
Could also be the start switch. These are known for early burnout. Apparently Honda didn't design a robust enough circuit for pushbutton start.
We've heard reports that some Honda dealers are goodwilling the start switch, but not the starter.
Could also be the start switch. These are known for early burnout. Apparently Honda didn't design a robust enough circuit for pushbutton start.
We've heard reports that some Honda dealers are goodwilling the start switch, but not the starter.
1. Check the battery terminals to make sure they are clean and tight.
2. Check the battery itself. with a cold crank tester. A regular voltmeter would be a poorer second choice.
After that I'd consider a problem with the starter motor or the push button start and I'd lean to the push button start because of its history of problems.
2. Check the battery itself. with a cold crank tester. A regular voltmeter would be a poorer second choice.
After that I'd consider a problem with the starter motor or the push button start and I'd lean to the push button start because of its history of problems.
Thanks, all. Problem solved.
When I got to the car, I cleaned the battery terminals and started it with a lithium jumper. It would not start on the battery alone, though. Sam's was nearby, but they don't carry that battery. I got one from AutoZone. They didn't have the "GOOD" one ($225) in stock, so I got the middle one for only $175. 😋 I installed it, and it started right up.
I'll tell you, that is the most difficult battery installation I have ever done, and that includes the two six-volt batteries under the seat of a VW Beetle. The cables are too short, so they can't be easily moved out of the way. There is very little room to get a left hand in there to lift it out. The battery is too close to the fender to deal with the hold-down bolt. Besides all that, the temperature was in the twenties, and it was very windy.
He bought the car in March of 2020, and it has 103,497 miles on it. My replacement battery is still good after seven years. I'm going to get a good ($$) battery analyzer. I spent four hours and seventy miles on this. By the way, my 10mm wrench disappeared while I was doing this, so I had to buy a new one. 🤣
When I got to the car, I cleaned the battery terminals and started it with a lithium jumper. It would not start on the battery alone, though. Sam's was nearby, but they don't carry that battery. I got one from AutoZone. They didn't have the "GOOD" one ($225) in stock, so I got the middle one for only $175. 😋 I installed it, and it started right up.
I'll tell you, that is the most difficult battery installation I have ever done, and that includes the two six-volt batteries under the seat of a VW Beetle. The cables are too short, so they can't be easily moved out of the way. There is very little room to get a left hand in there to lift it out. The battery is too close to the fender to deal with the hold-down bolt. Besides all that, the temperature was in the twenties, and it was very windy.
He bought the car in March of 2020, and it has 103,497 miles on it. My replacement battery is still good after seven years. I'm going to get a good ($$) battery analyzer. I spent four hours and seventy miles on this. By the way, my 10mm wrench disappeared while I was doing this, so I had to buy a new one. 🤣
The standard 151R. It's so tight as it is, I didn't want to spend more money to make the job even more difficult. I've heard that the electrical system is set up for the smaller battery, and that gave me another excuse. 😋
Yes, clean and tight. Funny - as I was doing this in cold, windy weather, my 10mm wrench disappeared. I walked to Lowe's and bought a Craftsman for $12. Later, I ordered three from Amazon for $11.00. They're not Craftsman, but I don't think I'm going to break a 10mm wrench.
I usually find missing items the day after the replacements arrive. The three 10mm wrenches arrived today, but the missing wrench is still missing.
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-mm-...ece-58957.html
I guess those are technically sockets. Still, genius product. ^_^
I guess those are technically sockets. Still, genius product. ^_^
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-mm-...ece-58957.html
I guess those are technically sockets. Still, genius product. ^_^
I guess those are technically sockets. Still, genius product. ^_^
EDITED: I just looked, and my local store now has that. I'll pick one up the next time I'm in town.
Womp womp
Kirkland 51R (civic) battery to the rescue!
i ran a 51R in my GD Fit for 12 years and it never let me down. Costco Kirkland brand.
On my current GK Fit, after the first really cold night, it was making extra chugs to start the engine. Turns out I had a 3-4 year old Kirkland brand 51R in the garage left over from my totalled GD. Popped it in my GK and boom, starts instantly even after the coldest nights. I also kept the GD battery tray which I had to dremel off one of the lips to allow the longer battery to protrude. Fits right in with no need to modify anything (apart from the tray if you decide to keep it).
do what you want with your Fit, but everyone in my neck of the woods run a 51R which is almost double the cold cranking amps. Nobody has problems. I need my car to start, even after sitting for three or four days in sub zero temperatures. I will never run a 151R in my car again.
Also: 151R is super hard to find in my city and goes for at least 150-200$ CDN. Kirkland 51r battery is super common and is
less than 100$. So it’s actually more expensive to run the stock size. I really can’t think of any reason to do so if you live in a cold climate.
less than 100$. So it’s actually more expensive to run the stock size. I really can’t think of any reason to do so if you live in a cold climate.
Womp womp
Kirkland 51R (civic) battery to the rescue!
I live in Canada and the puny 151R can really struggle after a cold night. Your battery is used once to start the car, then everything runs off the alternator.
i ran a 51R in my GD Fit for 12 years and it never let me down. Costco Kirkland brand.
On my current GK Fit, after the first really cold night, it was making extra chugs to start the engine. Turns out I had a 3-4 year old Kirkland brand 51R in the garage left over from my totalled GD. Popped it in my GK and boom, starts instantly even after the coldest nights. I also kept the GD battery tray which I had to dremel off one of the lips to allow the longer battery to protrude. Fits right in with no need to modify anything (apart from the tray if you decide to keep it).
do what you want with your Fit, but everyone in my neck of the woods run a 51R which is almost double the cold cranking amps. Nobody has problems. I need my car to start, even after sitting for three or four days in sub zero temperatures. I will never run a 151R in my car again.
I just checked, and prices for the 51R range from $130 to over $300. Still, that's what I'll get the next time.
The negative battery terminal is close to the cooling fins on the ECM, but the terminal can be twisted to stay clear. I would be surprised if the cooling fins aren't already grounded (electrically connected to battery negative).
I checked and the picture makes the negative terminal appear closer to the cooling fins than it is. In fact, it is a good 1/2 inch or more away from the ECU heat sink.
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