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So did you run the car up the ramps? How did it work out?
I didn't put the car on the ramps yet. I was just checking to see if it'll clear the bumper ok.
Going up on it should be fine but getting off might be iffy since the ribber lip may catch and drag a little bit. I've had these Rhinos for several years and noticed the newer ones are different so hopefully those will be ok.
When I was looking for image of the Fit on the ramps I saw this (scroll to middle of the thread) which worked fine for 2009 Fit Sport:
Saw that too...strange that I don't see the black plastic bottom edge. Its a steep climb.
I've seen few folks modified the ramps to accommodate low riding cars such as a Corvette.
Funny thing is I originally bought these ramps to install a trailer hitch on my old 2009 CRV. Then started using it for oil changes. Been doing that ever since.
I jacked the front of my Fit up at the front center jack point with the HF Pittsburp 1.5 ton aluminum jack and the 2 front jack support points on the pinch welds behind the front wheels got raised to 12 inches off the ground. The support points at the pinch welds ahead of the rear wheels got raised to only 10 inches. The At that height, I am thinking that the harbor freight Pittsburp 3 ton jack stands might not be able to work, since their spec for min height is 11.5 inches, and to get them to seat using the ratchet mechanism, you probably have to raise them a little higher than the height they are going to sit at. Esp at the rear, where a hockey puck atop the jack saddle might not provide enough additional height.
Get bigger rolling hydraulic jack? The 1.5 ton had trouble squeezing past the plastic shrouding under the engine. I had to drive the car up onto 1.5 inch "ramps" (block of 2 x 10 lumber) first.
Put a big hunk of lumber on top of the saddle under the center rear jack point? Say a piece of 4 x 4 lumber?
After jacking up on the rear and putting the rear wheels on thin layer of lumber (the wheels only reach about 1 inch above the ground), jack up each side one by one just ahead of the rear pinch-weld lift points, where you will be able to get rear pinch weld support points plenty high enough for a 12-inch jack stand, and then put a jack stand at each rear pinch weld support point, first one side then the other. Going from side to side like that with the front up on jack stands, sounds a bit destabilizing.
Last edited by nomenclator; 09-26-2017 at 02:44 PM.
I jacked the front of my Fit up at the front center jack point with the HF Pittsburp 1.5 ton aluminum jack and the 2 front jack support points on the pinch welds behind the front wheels got raised to 12 inches off the ground. The support points at the pinch welds ahead of the rear wheels got raised to only 10 inches. The At that height, I am thinking that the harbor freight Pittsburp 3 ton jack stands might not be able to work, since their spec for min height is 11.5 inches, and to get them to seat using the ratchet mechanism, you probably have to raise them a little higher than the height they are going to sit at. Esp at the rear, where a hockey puck atop the jack saddle might not provide enough additional height.
Get bigger rolling hydraulic jack? The 1.5 ton had trouble squeezing past the plastic shrouding under the engine. I had to drive the car up onto 1.5 inch "ramps" (block of 2 x 10 lumber) first.
Put a big hunk of lumber on top of the saddle under the center rear jack point? Say a piece of 4 x 4 lumber?
After jacking up on the rear and putting the rear wheels on thin layer of lumber (the wheels only reach about 1 inch above the ground), jack up each side one by one just ahead of the rear pinch-weld lift points, where you will be able to get rear pinch weld support points plenty high enough for a 12-inch jack stand, and then put a jack stand at each rear pinch weld support point, first one side then the other. Going from side to side like that with the front up on jack stands, sounds a bit destabilizing.
I lift the rear of the car with a floor jack and keep it raised while I raise first one side of the front and then the other. That make three liftings instead of four. I don't use jack stands for tire rotation or changing. When I work under the car, I use large wooden ramps that I made of out 2" x 12" lumber.
I lift the rear of the car with a floor jack and keep it raised while I raise first one side of the front and then the other. That make three liftings instead of four. I don't use jack stands for tire rotation or changing. When I work under the car, I use large wooden ramps that I made of out 2" x 12" lumber.
Here's a picture of what I use on the jack points under the doors. I got four hockey pucks from Amazon, screwed two together and then used a table saw to cut a groove in the top one. I cut a circle in a piece of plywood which I put in the pad of the jack. Works like a charm.
I also use a single puck when I jack the rear of the car on the tow hook. On my car, I have a trailer hitch, so I use that as a jacking point, but my son's car has the tow hook for a jacking point.
Here's a picture of what I use on the jack points under the doors. I got four hockey pucks from Amazon, screwed two together and then used a table saw to cut a groove in the top one. I cut a circle in a piece of plywood which I put in the pad of the jack. Works like a charm.
I also use a single puck when I jack the rear of the car on the tow hook. On my car, I have a trailer hitch, so I use that as a jacking point, but my son's car has the tow hook for a jacking point.
You don't have to cut a slot in the hockey puck. It will conform to whatever surface is being jacked up
11-23-2014, 12:25 PM
