If the wheel hub was welded how the hell would you change the bearing? Of course it has to be bolted to the beam.

 

I am waiting for sites to update their parts listings so we can see?

 

Every one i've check including honda shows its bolted.

 

Where? Got a link? I can't find anything for 2015.

 

Cart Contents Honda Parts at HondaPartsDeals.com: Honda Accessory, Honda Car Parts, Honda Auto Parts, Honda Accord Parts

Cart Contents Honda Parts at HondaPartsDeals.com: Honda Accessory, Honda Car Parts, Honda Auto Parts, Honda Accord Parts

 

SWEEEEET THANKS! DAM THATS AWESOME!!!! Now I can fix my rear toe issue! I would assume this would be same shim kit as other fit's?

 

I'm not sure about the shim kits for other models. I would just get one for the 2015. And your very welcome!

 

looks like the diagrams tell the whole story. I haven't been able to take apart my back wheel to inspect if there are bolts or not. I'll try to take a picture of it when I can..

 

Did you look at the three generations of Honda axle and hub drawings I posted on this thread?

 

Yes. Thks. So all 3 gens can be shim adjusted. I ordered shims for previous gen and hope I can make it work.

 

I'm not sure that the 2nd generation can be adjusted as the spindles are not shown exploded away from the axle beam. They might be welded on.

The 3rd generation rear bearings are a completely different design than the previous generations so it would be an outside shot for the shims for the earlier generations to work.

Still, it wouldn't be difficult to make shims. To correct toe all you need do is find out how far off the toe is, measure the distance between the front and rear bolts that bolt the hub to the beam, then calculate the shim thickness using t=d(sinθ) wheret is the thickness, d is the distance between bolts, and θ is the angle of correction.

Sacrifice a set of feeler gages to make shims of the appropriate thickness and you're in business for just a few bucks.

 

Had the opportunity to get the Fit to the Dealership this afternoon.

As to the alignment pulling slightly left, the river's side front wheel had basically zero toe in, and the passenger side front wheel was at about the limit of the permissible toe in (green arc), thus creating a built in slight left turn.
They corrected that by cranking in matching toe in on the driver's side front wheel to match the passenger side wheel.
The car no longer pulls to the left.

My issue now is the rear wheels, they are both at nearly the maximum yellow arc toe out.
The alignment print out states: "Marginal, suggest wheel alignment check".
They have a funky reading: -35 feet per mile.
+/- 20 feet per mole is "Pass"
+/- 20 feet per mile to +/- 40 feet per mail is "Marginal"
Over 40 feet per mile is "Failed"
Thus my Fit's rear axle is almost at "Failed" on both sides.

The service tech said the rear axle is not adjustable.
I countered, it can be shimmed.
He said, yes there are now or will be soon third party shims available for the 2015 rear axles.
BUT, Honda will not reimburse the dealership for doing the rear axle shimming, and I'm on my own if I wish to have it done.
I then asked what about shorter tire life running that much toe out.
He replied, I'll likely be on my own on that, as Honda considers the rear wheels to be with in tolerance.

I see a recall coming for this, if these out of alignment rear axles are as common as they appear to be.
I bet Honda comes up with a shim set real soon.

To see if your new Fit has this rear axle issue, get the car to a Honda Dealership ASAP, and have the alignment checked, and get a copy of the alignment report for your records.

As to the head light issue, the driver side head light was low, and the passenger side head light was a bit low.
They adjusted them both up to the mid point on the Green angle.
Drove the car home as dusk, turning dark this evening, and the head light alignment is much better now.

Gregg

 

This is the kit you will need.

Here are pictures to prove you CAN adjust toe/camber of the rear wheels. You will not have any Dealer do this work for you. However, if you get a base alignment reading first, shim, then have it aligned once more, you should have no issues correcting for tire wear/tracking issues!!! If done right thje first time of course.

I myself have not shimmed my GK as I have no tracking issues. If I start seeing abnormal tire wear then I will proceed to do the shim job.

Specialty Products EZSHIM Calculator

The spindle is held in by 4 bolts. Easy to access!

 

Based on the pics wouldn't adding shims affect the drum brakes since it won't align up correctly?

Edit: Nevermind. I've watched this video as I never seen how it was done.

 

Toe does NOT cause a pull. Most all cars have slightly drift to left to compensate for road crown.

 

Not sure where you got this info from? None of my cars have a slight drift to the left. If toe is set to 0 and it still pulls or drifts I would venture to say something is bent in the car somewhere?

 

ASE Master tech sir.

Its a VERY small amount. Just enough to compensate for the crest.

Toe is only a tire wear angle. Camber and caster are the only angles that cause a drift or pull. SAI will tell you if something is bent. All angles being equal, if some things bent you'll usually feel it drift during bumps.

Tires are the most overlooked thing to cause a pull. First thing I would have done was rotate from left to right.

When I say pull, any less than 10 seconds driving on a flat straight road until your out of your lane.

 

Yessir. There sometimes comes a need for rear disc brakes to have shims themselves and longer bolts to compensate for the axle shim. Not in the case of the FIT.


@Mecevans - Very much correct, the road is crowned and tires are usually the last thing to be checked as the cause for pull.


Fact still remains that the rear axles on the FIT's are given a range to spec. None are actually dead on perfect 0 degree toe and I forget the camber spec. It is the very nature of their design & manufacturing that makes them imperfect. Thankfully these shim kits can compensate for it. FWIW, even if the back wheels were to the limit of the spec range, the worst impact is about a 10% faster wear rate and/or a slight pull which is normally compensated at the front wheels. I for one am a perfectionist and until I see my tires overly wearing unevenly, only then will I take action to align and shim.


There are some things a dealer/manufacturer simply will not cover under warranty and the owner needs to take action to fix the problem properly. If we were talking about a 4WD with independent adjustments on all 4 wheels we wouldn't be having this issue with the dealers. bit of a double standard, but fighting city hall on this.

 

You actually want the rear toed in slightly. When you drive it will flex and add a little negative toe.

 

just a minor correction: aggressive toe out will cause pulling in either direction while on the street. coming from an SCCA racing background in all drivetrain configurations (FWD, RWD & AWD), i have run very aggressive alignments with upwords of 1/4" toe out front and rear. this would cause the car would be very wonky on the street, and you had to be on top of it.

not sure what mr.grames issue is. he has been here for a few weeks and has b!tched about the alignment (which his car does not seem to be affected by) and the light FI stumble (when shifting at low rpm). i don't think he is a troll, but if he doesn't like the car, be done with it and sell it.

i have had real problems, where the car was at multiple dealers and down for 2+ weeks. little annoying things do not bother me, as the car is primarily a commuter car. comparing it to other makes, so far it has been a dream.