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Front jack point location

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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 06:46 AM
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.a#'s Avatar
.a#
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Front jack point location

Wanted to change the oil on my wife's new Honda Fit today, but I dont see the front jack point at all. I know about the side jack points, but I wanted to raise the car on the front and lower it on jack stands. Am I blind or is there no front jack point? Thanks in advance.
 
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 01:39 PM
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KikeDiaz's Avatar
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Originally Posted by .a#
Wanted to change the oil on my wife's new Honda Fit today, but I dont see the front jack point at all. I know about the side jack points, but I wanted to raise the car on the front and lower it on jack stands. Am I blind or is there no front jack point? Thanks in advance.
Hello fella

And sorry I don't know but there is a video on YouTube on how to change it. May be it comes there. Hope it helps
 
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 05:34 PM
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Andy_FIT's Avatar
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I typically just use one of the suspension points on the A arm. Just make sure you aren't on a part that will bend like where the front end is attached to the sheet metal unibody. That isn't Fit specific, I haven't had to have mine up in the air yet.
 
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 05:55 PM
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I drive mine up on a set of homemade ramps, made from 3 layers of 2 X 10s.
 
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 09:36 PM
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Apexracing's Avatar
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The lift point is on the subframe behind the engine.
 
Old Sep 25, 2017 | 08:42 AM
  #6  
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The front center jack point is shown on this fitfreak page, about the 9th message down. The pic also shows 3 in high woodend ramp, under the left front tire. Look for the back end of the plastic shroud under the engine, where the 2 plastic fasteners hold it up. Then look back even further, about 8 inches. It is roughly as far back as the back of the front tires. It is hard to reach. Most rolling hydraulic jacks are too high to get under the front plastic shroud. It has been suggested that one first drive up onto a pair of 2 x 10 or 2 x12 lumber. Someone else said they needed 4.5 inches (3 2 x 10's stacked up, stepwise, as Uncle Gary describes above, to use as a ramp) under each wheel before they could get their jack in. Others have suggested jacking up the whole side, on the jack point for the front tire, placing jack stands, and repeating on the other side – but then you can't put a jack stand on the front jack point - because the jack is there (unless you buy very expensive special jackstands that cost more for a pair than a pair of cheap rolling hydraulic jacks). Perhaps you could jack up on the pinch weld just behind the front tire jack point? But I think that would risk bending the pinch weld, even if a hockey puck or pinch weld adapter was used. Pinch weld adapters are supposed to go at one of the reinforced areas for jacking up one wheel.
 

Last edited by nomenclator; Sep 25, 2017 at 11:16 AM.
Old Nov 17, 2023 | 03:24 PM
  #7  
ritcdj12@gmail.com's Avatar
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I have always jacked up on each side, right behind the pinch weld. Then drop onto a jack stand on the pinch weld. I have done this 30 times or so, never bent the weld. It isn’t the official way to do it…but it works fine. Luckily the back side you can just use the tow hitch, works great!!!
 
Old Nov 17, 2023 | 04:08 PM
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As stated by the previous poster, it's relatively safe to lift the car along the side seam behind (or in front of for the rear) the official jack point. I've done it hundreds of times when rotating tires on many different cars with no damage. This assumes that you have no existing damage to the side seam area (e.g., rust) that compromise strength. If you're really concerned, you can use a 12-inch piece of 2x4 to spread the load along the seam. I don't bother with that but do use hockey pucks on my jack pad to provide a bit of cushion and I go slowly, especially when lowering the car.

As far as the front jack point on the Fit, it is difficult to reach from the front. If I need to put my Fit on jack stands I either lift from the side as explained above or I drive the front tires onto plastic ramps, lift the rear using the central rear jack point and place rear jack stands, then lift the front off the ramps using the now accessible central front jack point, remove the ramps, and place the front jack stands. Dropping the car is the reverse procedure.

For oil changes I just use ramps which is obviously faster than bothering with jack stands.
 
Old Nov 17, 2023 | 08:17 PM
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woof's Avatar
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The Fit is so low to the ground it's pointless to try and find/reach any center jacking point. Put the jack in the wrong place and you'll have big problems. The side jacking points are easy to use and what I typically use. I do occasionally use my ramps.
 
Old Nov 19, 2023 | 08:48 AM
  #10  
saveMT's Avatar
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I slide in my Arcan jack from the side, right behind the front wheel, to get to the center jack point.
It's bit of a pain, as I have to move around multiple times to make sure it's at the right location, and I get very little leverage at first, so it takes a lot of shallow pumps to get it going, but once it gets going, it's not too bad.
 
Old Nov 19, 2023 | 08:19 PM
  #11  
ritcdj12@gmail.com's Avatar
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Ooo I haven’t tried that, right behind the front tire. Not a bad idea!! I’ll try that next time!!! Thank you!
 
Old Nov 20, 2023 | 01:43 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by woof
The Fit is so low to the ground it's pointless to try and find/reach any center jacking point. Put the jack in the wrong place and you'll have big problems. The side jacking points are easy to use and what I typically use. I do occasionally use my ramps.
1) Drive the front wheels up low profile ramp
2) Low Profile floor jack should now be able to reach the front center jacking point.
 
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