Not used to the paints they use for new cars these days. What kind of wax (if any) should I use?

 

Any modern wax (or paint sealant) should do OK on your Fit.


As with all DIY applications, the most important thing is DON'T RUB. Use a light hand pressure to apply and then remove the haze. (This prevents swirl marks.)




Myself, I've gone to using a Wax-As-You-Dry product every third or fourth wash. (various brands) This doesn't last as long as a regular wax or sealant, but it's easy and quick to do, and won't look white on unpainted black plastic.

 

I've had good luck with Turtle Wax "Ice", preceded by a clay bar if needed. It surprised me, as I'm not generally a fan of Turtle Wax products in general, but I'm impressed with the results and ease of use.

 

Is this as it sounds? After washing you apply this and wipe to wax and dry?

 

Yep, though I get better results taking up the excess water first with a synthetic chamois (my cars bead water ALL THE TIME). Then, spray the wax on and dry with a soft towel (to eliminate water spots).

Here's the Turtle Wax directions. I've also used Groit$ and Eagle One.


https://www.turtlewax.com/shop/produ...y-wax-26-fl-oz

 

Do you have a buffer or DA?

 

There's no need to use a buffer. A very light application by hand is all that's required. A buffer is better used for polishing.


Try to get a sealant rather than a wax. They last a lot longer. Wax is a monthly application, but a sealant you can do just 2-3x a year. It's especially nice if you live in a cold climate, since you can do one application in Oct and then forget about it until spring.

Otherwise, I'm not sure there's any specific requirements for modern paints.

 

Apply with a non-abrasive foam pad, microfiber pad/towel. You can use hand or a buffer. Depending on your combo, a buffer will be quicker. Less is more in the case of wax/sealant. Just a thin layer, and wipe/buff off with microfiber.

Unless you're competing in a car show, OTC stuff is fine. There's debate even among detailers the real benefits of a "wax" that's pricer than otc stuff. So Meg's, Mother's, Turtle - whatever. Just be careful as some "waxes" (e.g. Meg's White Wax) are actually AIOs (all-in-one) - which means they do a slight polish-fill-seal.

 

Wow, I'm pretty lame. My cars get washed every 2-3 years, sometimes longer.

 

Didn't you know that gas mileage is better on a shiny waxed car?

That's my story, and I'm sticking to it...

 

Here's what an 8 year old Fit with 115K miles on it can look like.


Never been garage-kept.

 

I love using Collinite #845 when I want a wax with extended protection.

Collinite #845: The Definitive How-To Guide For This Legendary Wax - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum

 

Think Ill try this stuff.

 

Seriously, and that's a recent picture? Very Nice!!!

 

Yeah, it's amazing how nice an old car can look when taken care of. And unamazing how crapped out a 10yo car can look when someone just washes it once a year.

A little preventative maintenance and cleaning here and there goes a long, long way for the second half of the car's lifetime.

 

Thanks.


My daughter (it's her car, I maintain it) and the wife were making apple pies this weekend. They told me to stay out of the kitchen...

 

I'll suggest buying syntethic wax and waxing every season(4x year). Good brands of syntethic are 3m, manguilar gold, tutle ICE(ice not the other cheap stuff).

And try to clean when a bird poops on your car, and speciallt when the tree stuff goes over because it is pretty harsh on the paint and it rally hard to take oof when you live it on for a while. Just dont park under trees,

 

I've found 3M synthetic wax to last longer overall. Use a clay bar on every other wax application and you'll be pretty happy with the results. To keep the shine, use a lightweight polish once every 1-2 years. Steer clear of non touch-less car washes if using a drive-thru washer. Avoid dealer car washes, and any kind of charity car wash where the same towel might be used to clean off an F150 that just went trailblazing.

 

if you're gonna wax the car, use dish detergent to strip the old wax followed by a rinse to flush all the old wax from the car. Reason, is old wax turns color (car owners with a white cars through their lives will understand) Its washing your mechanics cloths in with the babies clothes. This idea would happen with fresh wax mixing old wax makes for a weaker bond protecting your paint. Applying clay go l tp r. Keep the body. Look at the clay I'll keep you on my phone stumped dont swipe too much in an area Or you will risk removing your clear-coat swipe until the color the wax look the color of you car which my up cell is 91927943333.

 

Before anything get a grit guard and use the 2 bucket system to wash without putting scratches and swirls into the clear coat. Then claybar and polish to get the best possible gloss and shine. Only then apply wax or a sealent. .I love and use a sealent called ReJex as it's the best protection for love bugs, bird crap, and tree sap I have ever found. Any kind of bug splatter decomposes and will etch thru your clear coat into your paint. I have carpel tunnel syndrome and it flairs up if I do too much at a time. For me I'll take one section at a time and go thru the whole process to be sure to get the best protection. Do the front and mirrors first as they will be damaged fast. Then the roof if there are birds or trees where you park. No matter what you have done get the bug splatter off because when it decomposes you can get damage to your paint. ..