Most modern car rotors are designed to match the pad wear to the rotor wear, they don't leave enough metal to actually turn the rotors on many cars any more.. FWIW>> Chrysler won't turn rotors on jeeps..

 

You know that makes sense. I had a friend with a Toyota Corolla and she had so much shimmy in her steering. Took her to a shop to get the rotors turned, they refused, and they were not that old.

 

I bought a certified preowned 15 EXL with 13,500 miles that was owned and traded in by one of the dealer’s employees. I have a print out of everything done to the car from that dealer and it looks like at 9,000 miles the owner complained about front brakes but need to call to be sure exactly what they did because now at about 11 months of me owning it and only 19,000 miles on the car my local dealer turned the rotors and put new pads on under warranty after confirming my complaint of pulsing/vibration at highway speed braking. If infact front rotors were turned at 9,000 miles I think I should call Honda.

 

My rotors still pitch perfect at 73k miles. I guess I got lucky. Pads at 2mm. Rotors have plenty of meat on them (surprisingly)... so I will be changing the pads only when time comes.

 

I️ called the dealer miles the service report reads complaint: front brakes..
Then it reads solution: install new front wipers.
The dealer assured me it was a type o and if they did do brakes it would have to be listed parts etc. So rotors and pads were only done at 19,000 miles which is still early but let’s see how they hold up with my driving which is very mellow and low miles.

 

I think with OEM rotors it's hit and miss. My 2010 Fit has original rotors at 95K with mostly city driving, with pads being replaced twice.

My 2012 had them warped at 16 K, machined by dealership and then warped again by 36 K, a year later.

I installed O'Rilleys Bosch Lifetime rotors are around $54 each.
They still work amazingly at 90 K on my 2012 Fit.

The BRAKING PERFORMANCE improved a lot too, with the new rotors.

 

Will hope for the best and if that is my biggest problem, changing rotors to a better type down the road, the car is still great.

 

I had the same problem, I had them re-surfaced twice. So, I replaced with better rotors and brakes. Don't have any problem with warping/ stopping BUT the dust increased. I rather to have to deal with brake dusts than warped rotors.

 

same problem

 

no problems here

 

2015 EX manual with 42k miles, brake rotors were turned at 15k and the brake vibration came back. Dealer wanted $250 to resurface the rotors. I replaced the rotors and pads with EBC slotted rotors and green stuff pads. So far everything feels better....
This car seems to have a ton of vibration/rattle problems that I never had in my 01 civic....

 

I had a vibration with low mileage, but I never bothered to have the rotors resurfaced.
I eventually replaced them with EBC slotted rotors and Green Stuff pads as well, feels much better.

 

Something which I don't believe has been mentioned is that one major cause of warped rotors is improper lug nut tightening, lug nuts not tightened to the proper torque or not tightened in the proper sequence. You can buy all the fancy rotors in the world but if you have an idiot installing them the end result is predictable.

Also, most shops will tell you to come back in 20 days or so to get the lugs re-torqued. This is particularly important for alloy wheels because aluminum does funny things under pressure and lug nuts can loosen.

 

20 Days? You obviously have never torqued your own wheels down with a torque wrench. More like they loosen up in 20 miles

Personally, I don't see over or under torqued lug nuts warping the rotor. If under torqued and the wheel loosens and/or flies off the car from stripped studs once the lug nut backs off warped rotors will be the least of the problem. Over torque lug nuts usually result in broken wheel studs. But hey whatever, believe what you want

 

I am the original and only driver of this car, 2015 Fit LX with CVT. This car has no downhill braking ability at all. I routinely go from 3400 feet up to 7200 feet and down to a thousand. First braked replaced at 92K, pads a little thin but rotor warp was reason for replacement. Put top of the line Napa pads and rotors on . Car made it to 140k, rotors warped and pads shot. I had the original rotors turned and had dealer replace pads with OEM, and install the original factory rotors that I had turned. At 196k now, pads at 80%, rotors are shot. Rears are at 80%. 6 to 8% grades kill these things. I am not an aggressive driver, I average 41 mpg, Get 80-90 k out of tires but cant seem to stay off the brakes going downhill. I'm thinking about drilled and or vented rotors. Any Ideas ???????? this is a company car so not a lot of modification. current mileage is 196K. I am driving the biggest washing machine !

 

Welcome! 2015's were made in Mexico and some had improperly annealed rotors which resulted in very early warping, sometimes before 10K -- search this forum for details. Many rotors replaced under warranty. But if your rotors lasted at least until 92K, you probably didn't get the bad batch, you would have known much earlier.

If you're putting ~50K miles on per year and dealing with changing altitudes to boot, yeah, you'll go through pads and rotors a lot. Suggestions? Shift into lower gears going down steep hills to use the engine as an aid to braking. If you're carrying around anything heavy that you don't absolutely need, keep it out; decreasing vehicle weight means less braking force necessary.