I'm a little disappointed in my fit. Bought it in Aug. of 2014.

I was driving home the other day and all the warning lights came on. The car completely lost power. This happened just as I was going up a bridge. Talk about scary. The car had just enough momentum to crest the bridge and I was able to coast down to safety. The engine ran, but pushing the accelerator did nothing.

Had it towed to the dealer and they found P0087. Low pressure at the fuel rail. They tested the fuel pressure and said everything checked out ok. All they did was reset the code and test drove it a few miles. I asked them what caused the problem. They said they didn't know and they can't replace things that aren't bad. Dealer said they ran the test Honda wanted them to and cleared it for release.

I could have reset the code. Big deal. Now I'm stuck with a car I don't trust anymore because they didn't fix a thing on the car. I have 30k miles on the car now. What happens after my 36k warranty runs out and my fuel pump fails or something. I'm sure they'll tell me to go pound sand.


Has anyone else had this problem? Any help or advice would be very much appreciated.

 

Sounds like a bad connection to the fuel pump? Momentary loss of power. Sometimes the simplest explanations are best

 

Plugged in tank strainer? I had one of those drive me insane of almost a year. It would periodically suck some suppose in the tank up and plug the inlet. Only happened when the tank was below 1/2 full, the bottom of the tank would rise up when it was empty and plug the strainer then when I filled it it would sag enough to open again..

 

do you have a physical ignition key or a pushbutton start fob?

when you say "the car lost power" you mean engine power or eletrical power? to be honest i doubt ALL the warning light would come on if the fuel pressure loss was the cause, and not an effect.....

i dont have a fob, but if the fob lost contact, could that be the cause?

"The engine ran, but pushing the accelerator did nothing"
that seems VERY odd....again i wonder if a security thing rather than an actual engine problem....

please keep us posted. and best of luck, we will try and help if we can

a long shot i admit....

 

Thanks for the reply guys.

I have the push button start.

The electrical still worked. The engine also still ran when it did this. But pushing the accelerator did absolutely nothing even with the engine running. The engine would not rev once it started acting up at speed. I forgot to mention this earlier. I did stop the car and wait about 10 seconds before taking off again. The car did accelerate until about 20 mph(wouldn't go any further) and then the car shook violently. The engine felt like it was bouncing off the rev limiter.

i dont have a fob, but if the fob lost contact, could that be the cause?

I have no idea. I understand the motor not wanting to rev by not getting a enough fuel as engine load increases. But it bothers that everything supposedly checks out ok even though the car did have a major point of intermittent failure.

Thanks for the help. I will keep you guys posted on whether the car goes nuts again.

 

Maybe you are on to something. The fuel guage was only registering 2-3 bars if I remember correctly.

Either way Honda won't do anything about it unless it craps out again.

 

"he car did accelerate until about 20 mph(wouldn't go any further) and then the car shook violently. The engine felt like it was bouncing off the rev limiter."


i would say there is no way thats a fob security issue....it SOUNDS more like a physical not enough fuel.

so you waited 10 seconds, the car starts, it wont go past 20MPH and shakes......Then what happened?

 

I never shut the engine off. I just pulled over and let the engine idle for 10 seconds before I tried to accelerate again. Once I saw it wouldn't go any faster I pulled off and shut it down. Then I called for a tow truck. I do know that when the tow truck driver tried to start it, it took about 5 seconds before it finally started.

So far the car is back to running fine again. But it's always in the back of mind that if it happens again I run run the risk of getting rear ended. I was very fortunate to make it over that bridge when I lost power because there was absolutely no place to get off the road.

We'll see...

 

Certainly do keep documentation of this, including writing down what the dealer said. If the problem existed before the end of warranty you can make a case for them fixing whatever ultimately is the problem even if the warranty has expired.

That said, expecting a car to perform perfectly at all times is unrealistic. Prudent drivers allow for possible failures as much as they can.

 

The same thing happen to me a while back. I was driving my car and the engine just shuts off on me while I was driving. I took my car to the dealership and they had my car for over a month and a half. I have taken my car into them twice for the same problem. The first time they changed the fuel rail or pump i dont remember and it was okay for a week or two i forgot. But then the problem came back and they had to replace the second fuel pump and it been fine since then. I hope the problem doesn't come back.

 

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...ml#post1338958

fit pal seems to have had the same problem?

 

To me it sounds like a plugged sock filter at the bottom of the fuel pump housing. The fuel pump itself (assembly of the dc motor and impeller) doesn't go bad at that young age. The bottom filter is cheap like under $20 (Honda may not sell the filter itself), but can be a hassle to get out the pump assembly that is submerged inside the fuel tank.
Clogged sock filter will give you the correct psi reading at static condition. Flow rate test needs be done under a load.

 

+1 ,, I asked that too!

 

this may be a long shot but i had the exact thing you describe happen to my 02 ody. it would throw a code which was that the traction control wasn't working, and i could only rev to about 2.5k and it would just shutter and the tach would bounce, and i couldn't go any faster than 30 mpg. i would shut it down after a few minutes then restart and it would be fine. this would happen when i first started the car and in cold weather. the issue in my case was a bad solder joint (shrinkage) in the ecu. and when the car warmed up inside, the solder joint would become jointed again. i ended replacing the ecu with an used one and no more issues. not sure if the fit even has an ecu but i would think it does.