I recently would like to purchase a new fit sport CVT, but I am really really tired of negotiating. So I just want to inquire how much you paid for your fit sport CVT (OTD).
Btw, I live in Los Angeles, CA. Thanks a lot!

 

there's a thread on it already somewhere.. you're in the right section, but do a quick search.

 

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...u-pay-otd.html

 

You're wise to focus on the OTD price. Keep in mind that it will vary a bit depending on where you live and how much competition there is between dealers as well as numerous other factors.


I've read that your state limits the amount that dealers can charge for the so-called "Doc Fee" and for handling the paperwork for the tag. These charges are really part of what you pay for the car and dealers frequently use these fees to pad the price after the buyer thinks they have negotiated a good deal. That's why OTD is so important. Focus on OTD and ignore all the other numbers.


I drive an 2008 Civic Coupe. I started reading about the Fit on this board after my girlfriend needed a new car. I saw several posts that recommended using a service like TrueCar. When you look at a site like that you have to figure out what their price includes and what it leaves out. In the case of TrueCar, the prices listed only include the cost of the car, including the factory options you choose, and the destination fee. The Doc fee and any other fees, tag and taxes are not included. I think you can do better, without a lot of stress, buying on your own rather than through TrueCar. Still, it's a good source of information.


The link below shows info from TrueCar on a basic Sport using a random LA zip code. Scroll down and you'll see a bar graph that lists prices others have paid. Again, these prices only include the car and the destination charge, which is $875. The local data shown is based on only 18 sales but if you check the national data it's based on 58 sales.


https://www.truecar.com/prices-new/h...&zipcode=90020


Apparently, TrueCar used to list the Dealer Cost on their site but they removed that info after being pressured by dealers. Here's a site that lists that info - scroll down and make sure you're looking at the correct year, trim level and transmission type: https://www.car-buying-strategies.co...ices.html#2018


My girlfriend was, initially, very intimidated by the prospect of negotiating. I gave her some advice but made her do all the talking. She bought a 2018 Fit LX CVT and paid $18,400 OTD, here in Florida. The average TrueCar deal for this car is $17,072. After adjusting the price to their method, in order to compare apples to apples, she paid $16,308. That's $764 less than the average TrueCar price for the 2018 LX CVT. According to the National chart on their website, anything less than $16,446 is "exceptional" and only 5 buyers out of 66 paid $16,362 or less. So it looks like she did pretty well.


So how does that relate to your situation? The dealer cost of a Sport with CVT is $1243 more than the LX CVT. That's the basic car without Honda Sensing or other factory options. Given that there are probably a lot more dealers competing with each other in LA than in North Central Florida, I would be hoping for an OTD of under $19,000. You CAN do better than TrueCar, even if you don't like to negotiate.


How? . . . . Since that's more of general topic, I think I'll start a new thread to discuss buying strategies.

 

In case you didn't notice it, here's a link to the thread I posted about buying strategies: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...good-deal.html

Hopefully some other members will discuss their strategies too.

Let us know how what kind of deal you get.

I've driven my girlfriend's LX a bit and I'm pretty impressed. She was also considering a Sport, mainly because the Apple Car Play feature could display trip directions. After she figured out that her iPhone (a model 5 of some kind) fit handily in the cup holder on the left side of the dash she decided that would suffice, so she got the cheaper LX instead.