Lower Torque Mount Replacement
Lower Torque Mount Replacement
Probably the only one here with bad enough luck to need to replace it but I thought I'd check. Anyone else had to do this? Is it similar to the civic where it's an easy swap?
I posted a while back about being tboned and shoved across some medians. Apparently the shop didnt really give a fuck to look at my undercarriage and there is a huge chunk missing from my lower mount. It's causing shuddering when accelerating and occasionally while idling.
I posted a while back about being tboned and shoved across some medians. Apparently the shop didnt really give a fuck to look at my undercarriage and there is a huge chunk missing from my lower mount. It's causing shuddering when accelerating and occasionally while idling.
Damn that sucks, it must feel like you're driving a horse drawn carriage! I would take it back but if you can't, there's some posts showing how it's done. I replaced mine with a Hasport mount. Getting the stock unit out was very easy. Try to find replacement hardware as the two bolts are torque to yield.
I first rolled the front of my car up on ramps and chocked the rear wheels, then using the subframe lift point (right beside the torque mount bolt) I lifted the car up til I could get jack stands under side jack points to support the car.
With the car resting on the jack stands I moved the lift for a minute and loosened the bolts on the torque mount (one front one rear). It'll come out with a bit of elbow grease, I used WD40 to help loosen things.
The Hasport mount is a tight fit, so I put the rear end (the big end) into the subframe first. I had to get a 2x4 and hammer it in because the Hasport is a tight fit. Check to make sure you don't push it in too far.
Then align the front, if it doesn't line up, use the jack to push on the front or rear of the oil pan (gently) to rock the engine, but my engine had enough movement simply elbow grease it far enough to get the bolt in.
Tighten and torque to spec.
I'm pretty sure as long as you have a lift, jack stands (and maybe ramps to get the front end high enough to lift) you can do this own your own.
Edit: For North American GK5, here's Torque Specs:
90180-T9C-000 -> 93 Nm (x1 Vertical Bolt)
90188-TF0-000 -> 83 Nm (x1 Horizontal Bolt)
This is pretty much exactly the same process on our cars:
I first rolled the front of my car up on ramps and chocked the rear wheels, then using the subframe lift point (right beside the torque mount bolt) I lifted the car up til I could get jack stands under side jack points to support the car.
With the car resting on the jack stands I moved the lift for a minute and loosened the bolts on the torque mount (one front one rear). It'll come out with a bit of elbow grease, I used WD40 to help loosen things.
The Hasport mount is a tight fit, so I put the rear end (the big end) into the subframe first. I had to get a 2x4 and hammer it in because the Hasport is a tight fit. Check to make sure you don't push it in too far.
Then align the front, if it doesn't line up, use the jack to push on the front or rear of the oil pan (gently) to rock the engine, but my engine had enough movement simply elbow grease it far enough to get the bolt in.
Tighten and torque to spec.
I'm pretty sure as long as you have a lift, jack stands (and maybe ramps to get the front end high enough to lift) you can do this own your own.
Edit: For North American GK5, here's Torque Specs:
90180-T9C-000 -> 93 Nm (x1 Vertical Bolt)
90188-TF0-000 -> 83 Nm (x1 Horizontal Bolt)
This is pretty much exactly the same process on our cars:
Last edited by Azuki; Sep 8, 2020 at 11:15 AM. Reason: Adding info
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
triton.
2nd Generation GE8 Specific DIY: Repair & Maintenance Sub-Forum
1
Apr 23, 2020 01:28 AM
lcq4blackstar
Fit DIY: Repair & Maintenance
16
May 18, 2015 12:49 AM
allmotormark
Fit DIY: Repair & Maintenance
4
Oct 10, 2014 01:16 PM



