For the most part I really like the stock speakers in my Fit. My only two complaints are the apparent lack of low end frequencies and the feeling that all three music is in front of me. I've adjusted the fade on the head unit, but I think it's a combination of the speakers being low and the fact that they aren't very far apart that makes it feel like in have really good headphones on. When I get around to putting my sub in my trunk, can I add two speaker back there too? I expect I will need a different amp, but I guess I would have 6 full range speakers instead the the stock 4 and the two dash mounted tweeters. My sub was going to run from a speaker line adapter, but I didn't know if I could run 4 speakers and a sub off the line in. With the proper amp, can this work? Or is there a better way to do this? My goal is to feel fully enveloped in the music and not like it's coming front one direction. My last car was pretty good, it was a sedan, but the 6.5 rears overpowered the front 4s inn the door.

 

Ok to start the stock door speakers are 6.5" and not 4". If you wanna bring more of the music to the front on the cheap, replace all the full-range drivers in the doors to 2-way. You can then aim the tweeters up towards the passengers front and rear. Will help. I'm doing similar but adding a processor with 4-chl amp (for the mids/highs) plus powered sub.

 

Yes, I was saying my last car has 4" drivers in the front and it always sounded a little weak. I further tuned the fade more to the rear and it sounds better. I thought maybe having a greater spread across the speaker locations would help music sound fuller.

 

I have a question for anyone who has upgraded their stock GK speakers or removed the door panels. Are the stock speakers 2-way or are they just single mid level drivers?

 

I've got the six speaker non-navi set up, and my doors are single mids, with tweeters in the dash.

 

Thanks. Then my 2-way will be an improvement, even though they aren't even close to high end. When the speakers started going out the the Corolla I bought the cheapest JVCs I could find, and they work all right. I'm happy with them. Hopefully, despite how cold it's going to be this weekend and other projects I'm working on, I can look at installing the subwoofer. I take it the door panels come off pretty easily with panel pullers/poppers? Perhaps it would be better to wait 'til it's warmer so the plastic isn't so brittle.

 

It was about 36*F when I did mine a few weeks ago. The front piece of the arm rest with the window switches pops out and there's a screw there and then behind the door handle. It took a little prying from the bottom to get mine started then they pop off pretty easily. The factory speakers have the same black sealer behind them. Even at 36, it was still tight and sticky. They screw in at the top and then pry out and lift up.

 

I was thinking about swapping the rears to try and get more sound from behind, although I don't know if that would even do anything. I think my best bet is going to disconnect the rear door speakers and run those wires to a box in the trunk. The box would just sit on top of the subwoofer cab after I get that in there. The two things I really want to accomplish: 1) hear sound from behind. 2) get low end audio to complement the other speakers.

I don't know how tricky it will be to run wire from the rear speakers to the trunk, but once the wires are there, all that will need to be run is the subwoofer amp power. Speaking of which, when a speaker level input is used, does the wire that tells the amp to turn on and off (that gets connected to the head unit) still get used?

 

I know other guys here have tapped the rear speakers at the door column. It will depend on the amp from what I've seen. Some have the signal sensing turn on, some dont. I'm making an adapter out of a couple Metra wiring adapters to run everything to the back and then back up from without tapping the orignal harness. I cant hear hardly anything at all out of the factory rears, even with the fader adjusted back.

 

Here's some of the pics I took while doing mine that might help you and get an idea of the factory speaker compared to my Polk's.

 

Thanks for the pictures, that's helpful.

 

The magnets on the GK are actually bigger than the GD/GE ones. I didn't see on the post what HU the op is running, but I will throw that suggestion in as well.

On my GD I upgraded my HU to a Sony WXGT90 and right there the power that the stock speakers was way more compared to the oem HU. I upgraded my fronts to 6.5" JBL GTO's and left the rears as oem and that's when I found out about a feature that the Sony unit had: an option for the rear speakers to get LPF. I did that an my rear speakers act as tiny subwoofers.

Maybe look into upgrading the unit as well.

 

I'm planning keeping the stock head unit because of the integration with mpg. I also figured a comparable hu wouldn't be very cheap either.