I plan on installing a Kenwood KSC-SW11 powered sub in the next couple of weeks. I'm posting this for thoughts/opinions on the way I'm going about the install.

First, a big shout out to Bassguitarist1985; I've been watching his install thread and asking him questions directly. He's given me great recommendations and insight into the project. Also, reviewing fibrepunk's posts has been extremely helpful as well.

My install won't be anywhere as involved as Bassguirarist1985's. I really just want to add the sub; no extra amps, etc., so the harness should be relatively straightforward. I did replace all four door speakers with Polk Audio 6501's, which was fairly straightforward.

My plan:

1) Like many, I don't want to cut the factory harness. I've ordered the Metra 70-1729/71-1729 harnesses. I know these do not include the wires for the steering wheel capability (I have an EX), so will need to determine the pin outs for that functionality, and add the appropriate wires to the harness.

2) I'll tap the rear R/L speakers from the extension harness with Posi-Taps. If anyone has information pro/con, feel free to share.

3) The speaker outs will feed to an Audio Control LC2i. I like that the LC2i doesn't need the remote turn-on lead, which is a plus to me as it just simplifies the install.

4) I'll run an 8 gauge power line from the positive battery terminal to the LC2i. Again, thanks to Bassguitarist1985 for suggestions/video of where to route through the firewall.

Am I missing anything here? Also, my plan is have both the LC2i and the sub under either the driver's or passenger's sear. Any alternative suggestions? Also, those that have undertaken a process like this, to where did you run the ground?

Thanks in advance. I'm looking forward to the install.

 

I, too, am considering the Kenwood KSC-SW11 powered sub. The sub requires taps into L-R speakers, power, and one input from the OEM head unit. What is the purpose of the Audio Control LC2i? Is it as input for the sub, or to connect to the 4 door speakers?

 

It does several things, but the appealing item for me was correcting bass roll-off found in factory stereos. Here's the link to Audio Control's site. Also, the reviews on Amazon, and there are several, are extremely good. Bassguitarist1985 used a different, more comprehensive Audio Control unit, and had great things to say about it sonically.

The other thing that is cool is it appears to remove the need to run a lead from the harness for remote turn on, in this instance for both the LC2i AND the powered sub. Again, just icing on the cake if the unit does what it is advertised to do.

 

The Kenwood KSC-SW11 powered sub also has a control for bass roll-off, in the remote. Do you need both? I'm new to stereos, so don't know much.

RottBoy did an extensive (ripped his interior apart) mod where he put crossover units on each of the 4 speakers, an amp AND the sub.

 

First, my bad: Here's Audio Control's link. lc2i - AudioControl

I'd have to look at RottBoy's post, but if he's running an external amp for both the door speakers and the sub, the crossover makes sense. I'm not going for anything remotely that complex, and will just set the crossover point at the LC2i or the sub itself.

I'll post as I do things and let you know the good/bad encountered. Luckily, there is a lot of good info already out here from those that have gone before, so that is making the whole task much simpler.

 

Check out my main thread guys, the Audio Control LC series of interfaces corrects for the steep bass frequency rolloff so the stock OEM speakers dont distort.

I used the LCQ-1, a 6 channel interface with an EQ and gain stage plus a few other cool features like signal sense.

I would tap the front L/R as they have a hotter signal than the rears. My gains are slightly higher for the rear channels to equal the fronts.

The Kenwood sub does NOT have a low frequency compensation on the remote. It has a volume knob on the remote, but you are not boosting the EQ, only increasing the gain. Thats where the LC2i comes in to restore that steep freq rolloff with a direct opposite mirror eq compensation.

I ran 10 gauge for the two subs. 8 gauge for one is WAY overkill. You can get away with 12. Being a class D amp its very efficient power wise. Max draw is 8.5 amps. The LC2i is less than 2 amps, make sure that is properly fused too.

FYI I used the two rear screws that secure the center console for the grounding of the subs. Its welded directly to the frame. No issue there.

I got more videos coming I simply haven't edited them down yet. I'll try my best to get it up tonight or tomorrow. I am doing a massive cleanup on my Fit after all these projects. The system sounds AMAZING!

 

I am looking at the Boss kit for running power from the battery. Most of the reviews I've seen indicate the quality seems good, but their wire gauge size is skewed; 8 is probably closer to 10, 10 is probably closer to 12. I'll mull it over; I cancelled an 8 gauge kit I had on order, and might go with the 10, knowing in all likelihood it's closer to 12.

I'll look at the screws in the center console; I didn't even think about those being connected to frame. Again, great suggestion!

The biggest question I'm wrestling with is the additional pins I'll need for the harness. Does anyone sell aftermarket pins, or should I simply buy a second male harness and scavenge?

 

Buy a 2nd male harness and scavenge. The molex pins are standard size but i dont know the gauge meant to fit the connector.

 

Second harness ordered. I'm assuming I can knock the harness out next weekend, and will tackle the install when I'm on vacation in a couple of weeks.

I'll take/post pics as I work through the install.

 

To those that have gone before me...

I'm about to run/fish the power cable from the battery. Is there any issue running from the empty threaded terminal in the pic below (lower right) on the positive terminal block? I'm reading 12 VDC (more like 13.5 VDC).

just let me know so I don't accidentally produce 1.21 gigawatts. I drive 88 far too often to have to mess with time travel.

 

After researching posts, especially the pinout diagram posted by Bassguitarist1985, here is the fruit of tonight's work:

The male and female Metra harnesses ready to solder. I label each of the leads, including the four that need to be added to retain steering wheel controls.



Here's the harness as it currently stands. I'll heat up the heat shrink tomorrow.




I way underestimated the time to put the harness together. If you're organized, it will take a couple hours. I'm not organized.

 

It took me about 3 hours myself taking my time in total to complete mine. I also had the extra work of making it modular with additional molex connectors to interface the other components.

 

Bass,

Luckily, mine wasn't nearly as complicated as yours. Simple enough for even (this) guitarist to figure out with the pinout diagrams you and others have posted!

Also, I was able to steal pins from an extra male Metra connector...but it was neither pretty, and one of those situations where I didn't have the correct tool for the job. I won't post any pictures of the final state of the previously usable connector. However, a suggestion to folks in the future; bull more than you think will be necessary, check continuity before you add the extra leads, and keep one to insert into the female harness to check continuity for the completed harness.

I did both, and everything tested as expected.

 

Very good. I essentially built a failsafe into the setup with the molex connectors, I could always bypass the aftermarket components if I wanted to use the stock OEM HU amplifier.