I have been looking for an easy way to add a subwoofer (a powered subwoofer) to the stock system on my 2019 Fit Sport, and this is what I came up with. This subwoofer addition can of course be done completely on its own, however as part of my subwoofer install I am also replacing the stock speakers and adding some bass blockers to them.

Rick's disclaimer: This post is not intended to be a DIY; I just wanted to share some of the highlights of the install. I will post some additional pics and details in future posts.

What I used:
1) The Sub - - $180
2) The Wiring - - $19
3) The Wire Taps - - $10
4) The Wire Splices - - $10
5) About 15ft of speaker wire I had on hand...

The good news is that this install does not require getting behind the stock radio. IMO, the hardest part of this install was running the power wire from the battery to the hatch area.

There are only three inputs needed:
1) Power
2) Ground - I just loosened up one of the seat bolts and put the ground there and retightened...
3) Signal
**Some amps and powered subs need a 4th input: a remote turn on lead, the Rockford sub I installed can be used without this input.

POWER: I mounted the fuse holder to the top of the fuse box


This gigantic rubber grommet on the passenger side of the firewall was an easy place to get the wire into the car. Once inside, I just ran the wire under the sill plates to the hatch.


SIGNAL - For signal wires to the sub, I tapped the rear speaker wires at the B-pillar where they come into the car from the doors.


The speaker wires in the bundle coming from the door are the blue (positive) and pink (negative) wires. The colors are the same for left and right side.


I used these Posi-Taps to tap into the speaker wires; then I ran the signal/speaker


wires to the hatch and connected them to the sub's high level signal inputs. The below pic is from the passenger side.


That really is all there is to it.

 

As I mentioned, in addition to adding the sub, I decided to replace the stock speaker as well.

What I used:
Rear Speakers - Rockford Fosgate Prime R165X3 6 -1/2" - $40
Front Speakers -Rockford Fosgate Prime R1675-S 6-3/4" components - $70
Mounting brackets (2 pairs) - American International HSB524 Speaker Mounting Brackets for select 2006-up Honda and Acura vehicles - Free
Speaker Wiring Harnesses (2 pairs) - Metra 72-7800 Speaker Wiring Harness for select 1991-up Honda and Acura vehicles - Free
Bass Blockers - - $12

As I am old, fat, and lazy, I have been doing this install in phases in the evening after work. The Phases:
1) Running the amp/sub power wire from the battery to the hatch
2) Installing rear speakers with BBs and installing sub
3) Installing front speakers with BBs

A pic of the rear door speaker wires, blue and pink...


Here is a pic of a rear speaker with the bass blocker tapped into the speaker wiring harness. I taped everything up before installing in the door.


I plan to install the front speakers tonight. I chose a component front speaker set to replace the dash tweeter and the door speakers as a set.

After reading BG1985's awesome and justifiably stickied "Upgrade Of Factory Speaker System With OEM HU", I decided to post this install as example of an inexpensive, and easy way to get some pretty nice (and pretty loud) sound in a Fit. With the exception of the door speakers, all gear was ordered from Amazon. I ordered the door speakers from Crutchfield; I find their prices to be competitive (not on everything), and they throw in the mounting brackets, wiring harnesses, master sheets, have supreme customer service, and free shipping...

While not up to the standards of BG1985s system, the components I used are of superior quality when compared to the OEM gear. The entire install was under $350, required absolutely no cutting of factory wiring (so far, not sure about dash tweeters), and again DID NOT require removing or getting behind the stock radio.

 

Great Job Rick! A solid professional job!

 

I ran the same sub. and then 29 days later I bought the 12 inch version to "try out" and fell in love with it, and kept it. the bass was simply more deep and more boomy/sounded way better (imo)

suggestion:
buy the 12 inch version of the sub. it's a $10 diff, physical size is about the same, and both models have that same quick disconnect so its easy to swap back and forth. listen to both for a day or so. its amazon, its no hassle to return the extra one

 

Looking good!!

 

Yeah, agreed... I put the 12" version in the trunk of my brother's Jetta a few months ago. Even in the trunk, seats up, it hits like a sledgehammer. For me it felt like it would be overkill in a little and open hatchback, and IMO that ten is more than enough bass, particularly with stock powered mids/highs, and I also like the smaller (although not way smaller) footprint; I am getting old... You are right though, for ten bucks more it is hard to pass up.

 

I have two of the kenwood subs. With both running, and each are 8" of displacement, more than plenty for bass!

 

dont get me wrong, the 10 doesnt suck at all, by any means. it totally blew me away and more than met my expectations of it. my curiosity told me to "try" the 12 .... I'm notorious for returning things after I play with it for a few days, but I just couldnt resist the 12 and kept it.

either one you choose, is a damn winner tho.

 

I finished up the install today by installing the front door and dash speakers. Installation of the front door speakers was basically the same as the rear door speakers.

The dash speakers came out relatively easy and thankfully the Rockford tweeters were a good fit.

The Rockford tweeters are in the top of this pic with the OEM tweeters on bottom.


I used this fancy zip tie arrangement to secure the new tweeters in the OEM mount.


So the install is now basically complete and I am very satisfied. I was a bit concerned about using speaker level inputs to the sub and not using a turn on lead for the sub, but both have worked out exceedingly well. I still have some tweaking to do with various levels and one concern I have is the lack of a proper equalizer in the OEM head unit. This is a legit drawback but with the head unit's bass-midrange-treble adjustments and the sub's adjustments, the system should still have some reasonable level of adjustability; it already sounds fantastic...

 

Good job Rick, glad you're digging it!

 

Hot glue, aka hot snot works well holding the tweeters in place. Thats the one thing I havnt done yet is put my kenwood tweeters in. Oems are not bad actually!

 

I didn't have any hot glue on hand; considered duct tape...

The Kenwood tweeters you reference, are these the tweeters from your stickied thread? Are you driving the OEM dash tweeters off the factory head unit or an external setup? I felt like the OEM tweeters were pretty good, but was surprised at how much better, brighter the Rockford tweeters sounded.

I'm strongly considering pulling the bass blockers off the front door speakers. With the limited adjustability of the stock system (wish it had a proper EQ) I can't seem to get it where I think it should/could be. Don't get me wrong it sounds great but...

In hindsight, with the 6.75" Rockford door speakers I probably should have gone lower than 200hz but the lowest "pre-made" bass blockers I see are only down to 150hz anyway. For now I think I'll just pull the bass blockers out and see how it sounds. If I start to hear distortion "too early" in those speakers, I may just order the right size capacitors (maybe in the 80-100hz range, 400-500uf) and make my own bass blockers.

 

Bass blockers work, but givwn how weak the OEM HU amp is, its unneccessary. A 6.5in driver should not be reproducing anything below 100hz in my eyes, or the very least a sharp eq cutoff which the OEM HU has. 150hz is the normal low pass for a sub, but midrange drivers like the doors should be 100 to say 8k where the -3db cutoff happens and the tweeters handle the rest. Any driver (speaker) has its weakest response in the extreme high and low ranges

Yes those are the kenwood tweeters. The tweeters in general are paralleled off the front speaker channels. The HU amp feeds the LCQ1, and the external amp powers the speakers/tweeters. HU has a 4 channel amp chip, not 6. Tweeters are connected in what they call passive full range.

The oem tweeters sound good to me. If I needed more boost to them I do it at the LCQ1. Long as I dont overdrive them outside their frequency response curve im golden.

 

Thank you for your perspectives and the review of typical speaker crossover frequencies. It seems like class is always in session here... . My tweeters are connected with what they call speaker wire...

 

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Rick, it's been a couple weeks, are you happy with this setup? Or will you not be able to tell until you get the sound deadener installed, LOL

 

Exceedingly happy; it sounds fantastic. BG1985 was right (of course) about not needing the bass blockers. I pulled the front BBs already and will be pulling the rears when I install the baffles and matting in the doors. Not a big fan of using high/speaker level inputs to an amp, but the rear speaker inputs were super easy to tap for the sub, absolutely no engine whine, and the auto sense on for the sub has worked perfectly. Really nice, and relatively painless to install...

 

Awesome, thanks for the update

This will be a great reference once I get my fit. During the test drive, my wifes response to the speakers was "are you sure it's all working" lol
her 2005 ford escape had one of the best stock sound systems I've ever encountered, we're a little spoiled, speakers will be the first upgrade for sure

 

One of the first mods I did was the installation of these sport horns. For $20 it was easily the best mod I've done to the car. Those stock horns are pathetic; I was embarrassed to beep my horn; meep, meep...

 

Picked up my fit today, will start a thread soon. They're meh, but it's the wife's car primarily, and she couldn't care less, so I'm not worried about the horns. I compensate with the airhorns on the airstream

Just ordered the rockford door speakers/tweeters + baffles from crutchfield. For the sub, I didn't see if you said, did it fit under the front seats? If not I'll probably go with the 2x kenwoods.

Thanks!

 

Congratulations on the car. No, the RF sub will not fit under the seat; mine is in the hatch. Are you talking about a pair of compact subs? If so, I have one under the front seat of my old pickup truck and it sounds fantastic; surprisingly potent for such a small package (that's what she said...). IMO, one under each Fit front seat would be amazing, and with no loss of cargo capacity (a loss of some rear passenger foot space yes).

As for the horn, I am sometimes compelled to use it during my daily commute, and here in the Southern Maryland world of Tahoes and Diesel Duallys, I was skeptical that the stock horns would command the level of respect that a car I'm driving should...