Easy Subwoofer Addition To Stock Audio System - Page 2 - Unofficial Honda FIT Forums

Easy Subwoofer Addition To Stock Audio System

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  #21  
Old 08-11-2018, 06:18 PM
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Rick did you anchor the sub in the hatch in any way? Or is it just sitting back there?
 
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  #22  
Old 08-11-2018, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by bdcheung View Post
Rick did you anchor the sub in the hatch in any way? Or is it just sitting back there?
I just put a ratchet strap around it from the outboard seat belt anchors. The strap sits low but due to the wedge shape of back of the sub, it locks in super tight against the back seat.

Although the sub hasn't budged, just for an added measure of security, I am probably going to install a couple of small screws into the lower front corners of the sub to keep the strap from possibly slipping under the sub. Other than that I have no plans for any other mounting strategy.

 
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  #23  
Old 08-15-2018, 08:15 AM
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Rick - Would you say the Rockford Fosgate Prime R165X3 6 -1/2 be decent in the front door speaker locations? According to Crutchfield it says it will fit. It's a 3-way so I don't have to deal with the front tweeter location (though that appears pretty easy to gain access to). I guess I'm wondering if the separate tweeter components is really worth doing in the Fit, since you guys had mentioned the stock tweeter is pretty good as is.

I'm looking to do an inexpensive speaker upgrade and considering Rockford Fosgate Prime R165X3 6 -1/2 are $40 a set, that's would be very inexpensive. I'm planning on cashing out my credit card points so it'll be free. I'll eventually do the self-powered sub enclosure after. I like to do stuff in stages to see how each piece affects the total package.
 
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  #24  
Old 08-15-2018, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 2Rismo2 View Post
Rick - Would you say the Rockford Fosgate Prime R165X3 6 -1/2 be decent in the front door speaker locations? According to Crutchfield it says it will fit. It's a 3-way so I don't have to deal with the front tweeter location (though that appears pretty easy to gain access to). I guess I'm wondering if the separate tweeter components is really worth doing in the Fit, since you guys had mentioned the stock tweeter is pretty good as is.

I'm looking to do an inexpensive speaker upgrade and considering Rockford Fosgate Prime R165X3 6 -1/2 are $40 a set, that's would be very inexpensive. I'm planning on cashing out my credit card points so it'll be free. I'll eventually do the self-powered sub enclosure after. I like to do stuff in stages to see how each piece affects the total package.
In retrospect, I think leaving the stock tweeters in place and putting two or three way speakers in the front doors may be an even better solution for a "budget" system like mine. It would bring the front "sound stage" down a little lower but it should add more mids and highs to offset the excess bass capacity from the sub.

So, yes IMO the RF 6.5 inch 3 ways in front and back doors, especially at $40 a set, combined with a powered sub, is a great budget plan.
 

Last edited by UnFitRick; 08-15-2018 at 08:58 AM.
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  #25  
Old 08-15-2018, 09:04 AM
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Thanks for the quick comment back. I'll probably go with the 3 ways in all doors and if I'm not happy, I'll looking at sourcing separate tweeters. The Fit is my commuter car so I don't need anything high end and I'm not a huge audiophile but I'm sure these sound much better than stock. Since it'll be essentially a free upgrade using credit card points, I don't see a drawback
 
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  #26  
Old 08-15-2018, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 2Rismo2 View Post
Thanks for the quick comment back. I'll probably go with the 3 ways in all doors and if I'm not happy, I'll looking at sourcing separate tweeters. The Fit is my commuter car so I don't need anything high end and I'm not a huge audiophile but I'm sure these sound much better than stock. Since it'll be essentially a free upgrade using credit card points, I don't see a drawback
I think that's a solid plan. As for my quick response, I am a little concerned I may face some heat from the mods over my comments to Ken this morning, so I am trying to provide prompt responses to some open threads here in case I get banned or something...
 
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  #27  
Old 08-15-2018, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by UnFitRick View Post
I think that's a solid plan. As for my quick response, I am a little concerned I may face some heat from the mods over my comments to Ken this morning, so I am trying to provide prompt responses to some open threads here in case I get banned or something...
You'll be fine bro. You said everything everyone else is thinking. I've certainly thought it, it just wasn't worth my time to type it out. Adding to ignore was much more efficient Other's have done worse repeatedly and not been banned.
 
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  #28  
Old 08-28-2018, 05:27 AM
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I抦 just getting around to reading this now. Great install Rick. You抳e renewed my confidence to perform a self install of a, different, powered sub. That one is way too big for me. I like the compact Kenwood.
 
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  #29  
Old 08-28-2018, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by LLLC1393 View Post
I抦 just getting around to reading this now. Great install Rick. You抳e renewed my confidence to perform a self install of a, different, powered sub. That one is way too big for me. I like the compact Kenwood.
LL+, like I said in the other thread, if you can pull door panels and do the door speakers you will certainly have the skills to do the sub. I keep meaning to pull a back door window switch off for you to find an "easy switched 12V" to tap for the Kenwood turn on lead...

As for my install, some final thoughts and lessons learned:
1) Bass blockers - With the limited power and adjustability of the factory head unit, I don't recommend using them (Neither does BG1985...)
2) Front door speakers - Instead of using component type speakers with separate tweeters, for the best value, I recommend using full range 2 or 3 way speakers and leaving the factory dash tweeters intact. IMO the additional mids and highs from the doors combined with the OEM dash tweeters would provide more and fuller sound for the money.
3) Foam door speaker baffles - I ended up retrofitting these in all doors. They do tighten up the sound; they also protect the speakers from water intrusion. The inside of my doors were pretty wet after a heavy rain...
4) The Subwoofer - IMO when using the factory head unit to power the other speakers, subwoofer size doesn't matter (that's right, I said it; size doesn't matter...). ANY powered subwoofer will likely be able to overpower the other speakers. Please don't misunderstand my comment; even when using the OEM head unit to power the door speakers, with a powered sub filling in the bottom end, the system will be plenty clean and plenty loud. It will not win any sound offs, but it is very capable. Being able to keep the sub in check from the driver seat is helpful. The simple single knob on the Rockford Fosgate wired remote is very handy and I do use it to tweak the bass levels depending on the type of music, volume, source, etc...
 
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  #30  
Old 08-28-2018, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by UnFitRick View Post
2) Front door speakers - Instead of using component type speakers with separate tweeters, for the best value, I recommend using full range 2 or 3 way speakers and leaving the factory dash tweeters intact. IMO the additional mids and highs from the doors combined with the OEM dash tweeters would provide more and fuller sound for the money.
3) Foam door speaker baffles - I ended up retrofitting these in all doors. They do tighten up the sound; they also protect the speakers from water intrusion. The inside of my doors were pretty wet after a heavy rain...
4) The Subwoofer - IMO when using the factory head unit to power the other speakers, subwoofer size doesn't matter (that's right, I said it; size doesn't matter...). ANY powered subwoofer will likely be able to overpower the other speakers. Please don't misunderstand my comment; even when using the OEM head unit to power the door speakers, with a powered sub filling in the bottom end, the system will be plenty clean and plenty loud. It will not win any sound offs, but it is very capable. Being able to keep the sub in check from the driver seat is helpful. The simple single knob on the Rockford Fosgate wired remote is very handy and I do use it to tweak the bass levels depending on the type of music, volume, source, etc...
Ha now you say that after I had ordered the Rockford Fosgate R1675-S! I had installed the Rockford Fosgate R165X3 and wasn't overwhelmed so I figure I'd try the component speakers in the front.

I went ahead and installed the baffles in the front when I did those, just because I've seen too many threads of people having water come in through the doors. The baffles are cheap and easy to install.

I'll be ordering the
Kenwood KSC-SW11 Kenwood KSC-SW11
in the near future.

LLLC1393 - I'm not a audio guy and this was my first time installing speakers. If you buy from crutchfield, they send the speaker brackets and wire harness adapters for free, along with their master sheets that detail how to take the door panel apart. The door speakers were a piece of cake. For the KSC-SW11, that should be a little more challenging, but no so much more. It looks like they include pretty much everything you'll need. Here's my audio upgrade thread if you want to look at it: Audio Upgrades
 
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  #31  
Old 08-28-2018, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 2Rismo2 View Post
Ha now you say that after I had ordered the Rockford Fosgate R1675-S! I had installed the Rockford Fosgate R165X3 and wasn't overwhelmed so I figure I'd try the component speakers in the front.
My two cents may be worth just that. Maybe you could leave the 3 ways in until you install the sub and give some feedback? My comments on foregoing the components was not based on actual experience; just seems like it would provide more sound for the same (or less money) having tweeters in the dash and in the front doors. As "weak" as the OEM head unit may be it shouldn't have any problems driving the additional tweeters.

Originally Posted by 2Rismo2 View Post
I'll be ordering the Kenwood KSC-SW11 in the near future.
I have been impressed with the one I put in my truck; the thing is about the size of many standalone amplifiers; amazing.
 
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  #32  
Old 08-28-2018, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by UnFitRick View Post
LL+, like I said in the other thread, if you can pull door panels and do the door speakers you will certainly have the skills to do the sub. I keep meaning to pull a back door window switch off for you to find an "easy switched 12V" to tap for the Kenwood turn on lead...

As for my install, some final thoughts and lessons learned:
1) Bass blockers - With the limited power and adjustability of the factory head unit, I don't recommend using them (Neither does BG1985...)
2) Front door speakers - Instead of using component type speakers with separate tweeters, for the best value, I recommend using full range 2 or 3 way speakers and leaving the factory dash tweeters intact. IMO the additional mids and highs from the doors combined with the OEM dash tweeters would provide more and fuller sound for the money.
3) Foam door speaker baffles - I ended up retrofitting these in all doors. They do tighten up the sound; they also protect the speakers from water intrusion. The inside of my doors were pretty wet after a heavy rain...
4) The Subwoofer - IMO when using the factory head unit to power the other speakers, subwoofer size doesn't matter (that's right, I said it; size doesn't matter...). ANY powered subwoofer will likely be able to overpower the other speakers. Please don't misunderstand my comment; even when using the OEM head unit to power the door speakers, with a powered sub filling in the bottom end, the system will be plenty clean and plenty loud. It will not win any sound offs, but it is very capable. Being able to keep the sub in check from the driver seat is helpful. The simple single knob on the Rockford Fosgate wired remote is very handy and I do use it to tweak the bass levels depending on the type of music, volume, source, etc...
What size and depth on the baffles?
 
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  #33  
Old 08-28-2018, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by LLLC1393 View Post
What size and depth on the baffles?
Here is a
link to the actual baffles link to the actual baffles
I used.
 
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  #34  
Old 08-28-2018, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by UnFitRick View Post
My two cents may be worth just that. Maybe you could leave the 3 ways in until you install the sub and give some feedback? My comments on foregoing the components was not based on actual experience; just seems like it would provide more sound for the same (or less money) having tweeters in the dash and in the front doors. As "weak" as the OEM head unit may be it shouldn't have any problems driving the additional tweeters.

I have been impressed with the one I put in my truck; the thing is about the size of many standalone amplifiers; amazing.
Haha I'm just giving you a hard time. I appreciate the input you've given on the subject. Like I said I'm no audiophile so it probably sounds good but years of riding motorcycles and blowing stuff up have affected my hearing.

These were the baffles that I bought when I bought my speakers through Crutchfield. They had an accessories section when I added the speakers to my cart, and I selected them. Baffles
 
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  #35  
Old 08-28-2018, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by UnFitRick View Post
Here is a link to the actual baffles I used.
Looking on Crutchfield are these the same? The Amazon link does not list depth, only small or large.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_237XT6...1-4-depth.html
I see there’s a 2 3/8” option also.
 
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  #36  
Old 09-14-2018, 09:01 AM
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On the KSC SW11, it has the blue wire to turn on the amp. Can I use one of those
add a fuse add a fuse
to one of the circuits on the interior fuse box? It's probably overkill but I'm not sure what other wire to tap into. Was thinking of using the 37 circuit for "ACC"
 
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  #37  
Old 09-14-2018, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 2Rismo2 View Post
On the KSC SW11, it has the blue wire to turn on the amp. Can I use one of those add a fuse to one of the circuits on the interior fuse box? It's probably overkill but I'm not sure what other wire to tap into. Was thinking of using the 37 circuit for "ACC"
The add-on circuit and position 37 are what I am planning to use as well. Perhaps I will wait to see how your install goes.

(I would install it already but am waiting on that add-on wiring to arrive)
 
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  #38  
Old Yesterday, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by marmaladedad View Post
The add-on circuit and position 37 are what I am planning to use as well. Perhaps I will wait to see how your install goes.

(I would install it already but am waiting on that add-on wiring to arrive)
I suppose I should look first at which subforum I am looking in - pos 37 is definitely the right spot....for 3rd gen! I thought I was going nuts when I compared pos 37 (ABS) on my Fit vs pos 13 (Accessory Socket). That would have made for a surprise.

How is your sub installation? I am heading out to the garage soon to do mine.
 
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  #39  
Old Yesterday, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by marmaladedad View Post
I suppose I should look first at which subforum I am looking in - pos 37 is definitely the right spot....for 3rd gen! I thought I was going nuts when I compared pos 37 (ABS) on my Fit vs pos 13 (Accessory Socket). That would have made for a surprise.

How is your sub installation? I am heading out to the garage soon to do mine.
It's on hold. My wife delivered a bundle of joy a few days ago so it's been pretty much changing nappies and wiping spit-ups
 
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  #40  
Old Yesterday, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Rismo2 View Post
It's on hold. My wife delivered a bundle of joy a few days ago so it's been pretty much changing nappies and wiping spit-ups
Congratulations brother. I love babies...
 
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