Easy Subwoofer Addition To Stock Audio System
#22
Although the sub hasn't budged, just for an added measure of security, I am probably going to install a couple of small screws into the lower front corners of the sub to keep the strap from possibly slipping under the sub. Other than that I have no plans for any other mounting strategy.
#23
Rick - Would you say the Rockford Fosgate Prime R165X3 6 -1/2 be decent in the front door speaker locations? According to Crutchfield it says it will fit. It's a 3-way so I don't have to deal with the front tweeter location (though that appears pretty easy to gain access to). I guess I'm wondering if the separate tweeter components is really worth doing in the Fit, since you guys had mentioned the stock tweeter is pretty good as is.
I'm looking to do an inexpensive speaker upgrade and considering Rockford Fosgate Prime R165X3 6 -1/2 are $40 a set, that's would be very inexpensive. I'm planning on cashing out my credit card points so it'll be free. I'll eventually do the self-powered sub enclosure after. I like to do stuff in stages to see how each piece affects the total package.
I'm looking to do an inexpensive speaker upgrade and considering Rockford Fosgate Prime R165X3 6 -1/2 are $40 a set, that's would be very inexpensive. I'm planning on cashing out my credit card points so it'll be free. I'll eventually do the self-powered sub enclosure after. I like to do stuff in stages to see how each piece affects the total package.
#24
Rick - Would you say the Rockford Fosgate Prime R165X3 6 -1/2 be decent in the front door speaker locations? According to Crutchfield it says it will fit. It's a 3-way so I don't have to deal with the front tweeter location (though that appears pretty easy to gain access to). I guess I'm wondering if the separate tweeter components is really worth doing in the Fit, since you guys had mentioned the stock tweeter is pretty good as is.
I'm looking to do an inexpensive speaker upgrade and considering Rockford Fosgate Prime R165X3 6 -1/2 are $40 a set, that's would be very inexpensive. I'm planning on cashing out my credit card points so it'll be free. I'll eventually do the self-powered sub enclosure after. I like to do stuff in stages to see how each piece affects the total package.
I'm looking to do an inexpensive speaker upgrade and considering Rockford Fosgate Prime R165X3 6 -1/2 are $40 a set, that's would be very inexpensive. I'm planning on cashing out my credit card points so it'll be free. I'll eventually do the self-powered sub enclosure after. I like to do stuff in stages to see how each piece affects the total package.
So, yes IMO the RF 6.5 inch 3 ways in front and back doors, especially at $40 a set, combined with a powered sub, is a great budget plan.
Last edited by UnFitRick; 08-15-2018 at 08:58 AM.
#25
Thanks for the quick comment back. I'll probably go with the 3 ways in all doors and if I'm not happy, I'll looking at sourcing separate tweeters. The Fit is my commuter car so I don't need anything high end and I'm not a huge audiophile but I'm sure these sound much better than stock. Since it'll be essentially a free upgrade using credit card points, I don't see a drawback
#26
Thanks for the quick comment back. I'll probably go with the 3 ways in all doors and if I'm not happy, I'll looking at sourcing separate tweeters. The Fit is my commuter car so I don't need anything high end and I'm not a huge audiophile but I'm sure these sound much better than stock. Since it'll be essentially a free upgrade using credit card points, I don't see a drawback
#27
I think that's a solid plan. As for my quick response, I am a little concerned I may face some heat from the mods over my comments to Ken this morning, so I am trying to provide prompt responses to some open threads here in case I get banned or something...
#28
I’m just getting around to reading this now. Great install Rick. You’ve renewed my confidence to perform a self install of a, different, powered sub. That one is way too big for me. I like the compact Kenwood.
#29
As for my install, some final thoughts and lessons learned:
1) Bass blockers - With the limited power and adjustability of the factory head unit, I don't recommend using them (Neither does BG1985...)
2) Front door speakers - Instead of using component type speakers with separate tweeters, for the best value, I recommend using full range 2 or 3 way speakers and leaving the factory dash tweeters intact. IMO the additional mids and highs from the doors combined with the OEM dash tweeters would provide more and fuller sound for the money.
3) Foam door speaker baffles - I ended up retrofitting these in all doors. They do tighten up the sound; they also protect the speakers from water intrusion. The inside of my doors were pretty wet after a heavy rain...
4) The Subwoofer - IMO when using the factory head unit to power the other speakers, subwoofer size doesn't matter (that's right, I said it; size doesn't matter...). ANY powered subwoofer will likely be able to overpower the other speakers. Please don't misunderstand my comment; even when using the OEM head unit to power the door speakers, with a powered sub filling in the bottom end, the system will be plenty clean and plenty loud. It will not win any sound offs, but it is very capable. Being able to keep the sub in check from the driver seat is helpful. The simple single knob on the Rockford Fosgate wired remote is very handy and I do use it to tweak the bass levels depending on the type of music, volume, source, etc...
#30
2) Front door speakers - Instead of using component type speakers with separate tweeters, for the best value, I recommend using full range 2 or 3 way speakers and leaving the factory dash tweeters intact. IMO the additional mids and highs from the doors combined with the OEM dash tweeters would provide more and fuller sound for the money.
3) Foam door speaker baffles - I ended up retrofitting these in all doors. They do tighten up the sound; they also protect the speakers from water intrusion. The inside of my doors were pretty wet after a heavy rain...
4) The Subwoofer - IMO when using the factory head unit to power the other speakers, subwoofer size doesn't matter (that's right, I said it; size doesn't matter...). ANY powered subwoofer will likely be able to overpower the other speakers. Please don't misunderstand my comment; even when using the OEM head unit to power the door speakers, with a powered sub filling in the bottom end, the system will be plenty clean and plenty loud. It will not win any sound offs, but it is very capable. Being able to keep the sub in check from the driver seat is helpful. The simple single knob on the Rockford Fosgate wired remote is very handy and I do use it to tweak the bass levels depending on the type of music, volume, source, etc...
3) Foam door speaker baffles - I ended up retrofitting these in all doors. They do tighten up the sound; they also protect the speakers from water intrusion. The inside of my doors were pretty wet after a heavy rain...
4) The Subwoofer - IMO when using the factory head unit to power the other speakers, subwoofer size doesn't matter (that's right, I said it; size doesn't matter...). ANY powered subwoofer will likely be able to overpower the other speakers. Please don't misunderstand my comment; even when using the OEM head unit to power the door speakers, with a powered sub filling in the bottom end, the system will be plenty clean and plenty loud. It will not win any sound offs, but it is very capable. Being able to keep the sub in check from the driver seat is helpful. The simple single knob on the Rockford Fosgate wired remote is very handy and I do use it to tweak the bass levels depending on the type of music, volume, source, etc...
I went ahead and installed the baffles in the front when I did those, just because I've seen too many threads of people having water come in through the doors. The baffles are cheap and easy to install.
I'll be ordering the in the near future.
LLLC1393 - I'm not a audio guy and this was my first time installing speakers. If you buy from crutchfield, they send the speaker brackets and wire harness adapters for free, along with their master sheets that detail how to take the door panel apart. The door speakers were a piece of cake. For the KSC-SW11, that should be a little more challenging, but no so much more. It looks like they include pretty much everything you'll need. Here's my audio upgrade thread if you want to look at it: Audio Upgrades
#31
I'll be ordering the Kenwood KSC-SW11 in the near future.
#32
LL+, like I said in the other thread, if you can pull door panels and do the door speakers you will certainly have the skills to do the sub. I keep meaning to pull a back door window switch off for you to find an "easy switched 12V" to tap for the Kenwood turn on lead...
As for my install, some final thoughts and lessons learned:
1) Bass blockers - With the limited power and adjustability of the factory head unit, I don't recommend using them (Neither does BG1985...)
2) Front door speakers - Instead of using component type speakers with separate tweeters, for the best value, I recommend using full range 2 or 3 way speakers and leaving the factory dash tweeters intact. IMO the additional mids and highs from the doors combined with the OEM dash tweeters would provide more and fuller sound for the money.
3) Foam door speaker baffles - I ended up retrofitting these in all doors. They do tighten up the sound; they also protect the speakers from water intrusion. The inside of my doors were pretty wet after a heavy rain...
4) The Subwoofer - IMO when using the factory head unit to power the other speakers, subwoofer size doesn't matter (that's right, I said it; size doesn't matter...). ANY powered subwoofer will likely be able to overpower the other speakers. Please don't misunderstand my comment; even when using the OEM head unit to power the door speakers, with a powered sub filling in the bottom end, the system will be plenty clean and plenty loud. It will not win any sound offs, but it is very capable. Being able to keep the sub in check from the driver seat is helpful. The simple single knob on the Rockford Fosgate wired remote is very handy and I do use it to tweak the bass levels depending on the type of music, volume, source, etc...
As for my install, some final thoughts and lessons learned:
1) Bass blockers - With the limited power and adjustability of the factory head unit, I don't recommend using them (Neither does BG1985...)
2) Front door speakers - Instead of using component type speakers with separate tweeters, for the best value, I recommend using full range 2 or 3 way speakers and leaving the factory dash tweeters intact. IMO the additional mids and highs from the doors combined with the OEM dash tweeters would provide more and fuller sound for the money.
3) Foam door speaker baffles - I ended up retrofitting these in all doors. They do tighten up the sound; they also protect the speakers from water intrusion. The inside of my doors were pretty wet after a heavy rain...
4) The Subwoofer - IMO when using the factory head unit to power the other speakers, subwoofer size doesn't matter (that's right, I said it; size doesn't matter...). ANY powered subwoofer will likely be able to overpower the other speakers. Please don't misunderstand my comment; even when using the OEM head unit to power the door speakers, with a powered sub filling in the bottom end, the system will be plenty clean and plenty loud. It will not win any sound offs, but it is very capable. Being able to keep the sub in check from the driver seat is helpful. The simple single knob on the Rockford Fosgate wired remote is very handy and I do use it to tweak the bass levels depending on the type of music, volume, source, etc...
#34
My two cents may be worth just that. Maybe you could leave the 3 ways in until you install the sub and give some feedback? My comments on foregoing the components was not based on actual experience; just seems like it would provide more sound for the same (or less money) having tweeters in the dash and in the front doors. As "weak" as the OEM head unit may be it shouldn't have any problems driving the additional tweeters.
I have been impressed with the one I put in my truck; the thing is about the size of many standalone amplifiers; amazing.
I have been impressed with the one I put in my truck; the thing is about the size of many standalone amplifiers; amazing.
These were the baffles that I bought when I bought my speakers through Crutchfield. They had an accessories section when I added the speakers to my cart, and I selected them. Baffles
#35
Here is a link to the actual baffles I used.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_237XT6...1-4-depth.html
I see there’s a 2 3/8” option also.
#36
On the KSC SW11, it has the blue wire to turn on the amp. Can I use one of those to one of the circuits on the interior fuse box? It's probably overkill but I'm not sure what other wire to tap into. Was thinking of using the 37 circuit for "ACC"
#37
On the KSC SW11, it has the blue wire to turn on the amp. Can I use one of those add a fuse to one of the circuits on the interior fuse box? It's probably overkill but I'm not sure what other wire to tap into. Was thinking of using the 37 circuit for "ACC"
(I would install it already but am waiting on that add-on wiring to arrive)
#38
How is your sub installation? I am heading out to the garage soon to do mine.
#39
I suppose I should look first at which subforum I am looking in - pos 37 is definitely the right spot....for 3rd gen! I thought I was going nuts when I compared pos 37 (ABS) on my Fit vs pos 13 (Accessory Socket). That would have made for a surprise.
How is your sub installation? I am heading out to the garage soon to do mine.
How is your sub installation? I am heading out to the garage soon to do mine.