You are correct. Like for example, you can blow up a speaker rated at 300 watts RMS with a 200 watt amp clipping with twice the wattage of trash power. Lets be honest though, amplifiers dont blow up speakers, operators do. Remember that 65-85% of the program power rating I mentioned? That doesn't allow someone to crank their system safely because they don't see the red clip light (if equipped) on. One has to have a way to limit the level of low frequency energy from the speaker by using an EQ or limiter. I have the EQ in the LCQ1. If you dont, then you get this....


Bottom line, If one starts hearing distortion, that's the system going beyond its limits. Every speaker has wattage, thermal, and physical excursion limits. I see so many whumpa-thumpa type car stereo guys think they are so hot with massive amps, large subs, dual alternators etc but really they are cold diarrhea. They often lack the proper setup in the signal processing and pre-planning foresight to design a system and blow up their 'system's' often. Youtube some of it its hilarious.

If you want that whumpa thumpa sound, 8" and 6.5" drivers wont do the job. If you want a balanced and functional system with a nice full sound that wont cause you to employ hearing aids before you turn 40, then pre planning your setup with proper components is the way to do that.

 

Thank you.

 

 

Depending how long that Clarion amp is in length, you may be able to hide it above the glove compartment like I did mine

 

I did the same, except managed to mount mine sideways behind the brace to the right.

 

Now let me see if I understand you guys on the ease of install for an amp. I would need to pull out the radio from the dash, identify the speakers wires, cut them, connect one end to the amp, then from the amp to the speakers. Do I have that right. Yes I know that you have a detailed install thread with pics and video, and I probably should look at that again (it's been a while). Because I'm not looking to disassemble the wiring harness, I didn't really pay close attention to your demo when I watched it the first time. As to the powered subwoofer, would that also then connect to the amp, rather than the tap into the speaker wires method mentioned earlier in this thread? I just called the local car stereo place and am leaning heavily towards buying the gear from Crutchfield and having them install it, if I should chicken out. Still I might just give it a go myself, and if I can't complete it, go to them. They are about a week out with appointments anyway. I really appreciate all the help provided thus far in this thread. Just realize that I'm not so much a DIYer and am more of a plug and play guy. I assume that in order to connect the subwoofer to a lead in/near the fuse box, I would need a test light or multimeter. I do not have that right now. Thanks for being patient with me guys.

 

You have it right. BG1985 used a sweet line output converter (LOC) for his install. It would give lots more control over all that new power.

IMO, if you go with an external amp for the door speakers you will not want to tap the the wires in the B-pillar for the sub (like I did). You could tap the rear speaker wires behind the OEM head unit (the same ones that would go to the rear channel inputs of the amp) or go with a LOC...

I recommend (even with the Kenwood) that you run the yellow power wire direct to the battery.

IMO, you should own an inexpensive multimeter...

One more thing, just for reference regarding the placement of the Kenwood sub. I borrowed this pic from BG1985's install thread. Just to be clear, with the Fit's fuel tank being under the front seats, the sub looks like it kind of sits behind the front seat. Not sure what if any issue this creates for folks in the back seat. I defer to BG1985 for his experience with the subs in that location. Two of those Kenwood subs must sound awesome, super tight...




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At the time of this picture I wasn't married, my nephew was 1 year old, and generally had noone in the back seats. Thinking like a single guy. Since then, I got married, my nephew is 5 and a handful almost reaching the floor now, thus relocated the subs to the cargo area. You are absolutely right Rick, tight and very full sound!



Cargo cover and relocated subs

 

Thanks for the pic. Yeah man, women and kids... they mess up everything. BTW, your screen name contains the year I got married.

So I would think the bass is even better with the subs in the hatch; is it? Also, I am wondering what you did to keep the subs in place; I don't imagine it would take much?

 

Yes with the cargo cover it acts like a large resonant chamber, really gets the bass to sound full. To hold them in place, simple two piece industrial velcro. Not the best but it works! If it isnt obvious by now, 1985 is when I was born. Palindrome age this year!

 

 

 

Well the amp and sub are now installed. Cost me more than it should have, but my local installer is like that. At least I was able to buy the hardware for less than I expected. It seems that my climate control fan and direction of airflow knobs have been scuffed, and the face of one even scratched in the process. Both myself and the person who I had inspect this right after it was done cannot figure out how this transpired. We will see how things pan out. As to the sound, the sub is fantastic. Mounted under and to the rear of the driver's seat, the rear floor mat covers any exposed portion of the speaker. I can definitely appreciate the increased bass now, but the overall sound is still a bit too bright for my taste. I have had this issue from the start of my quest to improve the sound without replacing the head unit.

 

Should I even have to ask, pics? Lol

 

 

 

Update: The install shop called me this morning to apologize and let me know that they ordered the parts to replace what they damaged. 7-10 days shipping to them. I have been dealing with a cold and head congestion for the last 2 days or so, and am unable to really give my upgraded sound system a proper evaluation. I'm satisfied with the mounting/.placement of the sub, but this does potentially limit the kinds of non carpeted floor mats that I can use in the rear. There are some that are quite rigid, although I have the Honda OEM winter mats and feel that they will serve the purpose for the rear. After 3 winters with the OEM all weather mats in the front, I'm ready to try something with better coverage to avoid salt stains. It's between Weather Tech floor liners, and Husky Xact Fit or Weather beaters. I get the impression that 1 type of Husky is more flexible and better fitting than the other, but I'm quite confused over the whole thing. I definitely need to find a better solution for the front. While Weather Tech seems like the obvious choice, I'm not thrilled about the rigid nature of these, and am used to a heavier rubber type on my feet while driving. My daughter has the WT and says that they are well worth the money. This coming from someone who has claimed to be "broke as a joke". As I said in a different thread in the general Fit discussion group, I'm loving my Fit again now. A few relatively inexpensive upgrades to my existing vehicle, which has 36 months left on a loan and is worth less than I owe, beats the hell out of getting a new vehicle.

 

Climate control knobs get damaged when you hang the oem head unit over it.

 

 

I had to comment on this quote. The honesty really comes through. I feel for you because sometimes I want to like a yellow car but in the end, just can't make myself do it.

Steve