Boom Plus Toys. They took several months to deliver, which made me quite nervous!

es

 

My google-fu is quite lacking here… I've not been able to find any info at any of the sites mentioned (or by "shotgun searching" either).

Anyone got a link to a JDM, UK or AUDM site that sells replacement parts (similar to http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/a...ariable-engine)?

es

 

Here's the latest addition… a Weapon R cold air intake. The install was fairly straightforward, although the fit of the unit is tight and I had to sub in a longer second hose to the breather pipe hard tubing as the connection on the intake sits higher than where it is on the OEM part.

I took my wife to dinner after the install, so I didn't get a chance to open it up but there is a different tone to the engine that I think I'm going to like.

es

 

looks nice. can you post a sound clip?

 

Let's try this:

2015 Honda Fit Sound Test

es

 

Thanks for taking the time to post that vid. Exhaust sounds good. Can't really hear the intake to be honest.

Any performance increase you can feel? Or is it just sound and looks?

 

I can only go by "seat of the pants," but I would say it does feel a bit snappier. (c:

It's weird, but the exhaust sounds a bit raspier to me after adding the intake, which I like.

es

 

Sounds pretty good, not too overbearing. nice!

 

You have any rubbing issues in the front with the Sport Tuning T9 wheels + 185/60 tire combo? Was planning on getting wheels/tires with everything of the same dimension as yours but haven't because a fear of it rubbing. Thanks.

 

No, the T9s don't rub at all (at least, not with the tires I have).

es

 

Hmmm. Something's been up out in the shop this weekend. Stay tuned!

es

 

Front springs?

 

2Rismo2 guessed it correctly - I finally got time enough to finish my spring updates, as well as install camber bolts.

First step is to remove the strut nut covers:



On one side, the nut came right off, but I had to use a hex key on the other side to get it started:



On the strut itself, you need to disconnect the brake line support and ABS line:



Then disconnect the swaybar linkage:



Finally, remove both strut bolts - note the floor jack supporting the a-arm and knuckle, which you want to keep from flopping out so you don't inadvertently pull the axle shaft out of the transaxle.



With the strut out of the way, I used some cord to tie up the knuckle.



Over on the bench, I used spring compressors to take the pressure off the spring (I read in several online accounts that there's very little spring pressure when you back the nut off, but didn't want to take any chances). I tried using a wrench and hex key to remove the nut, but no dice until I hit it with my impact wrench, which spun it right off.



Here's the new RSR spring next to the OEM spring (and the new camber bolt):



Remove the rubber and plastic spring bushings and install on the new springs, then put everything back together in reverse order. The camber bolts I used did not require elongating the holes, so they just slipped right in. I realized after taking this photo that I had the long tabbed washer facing the wrong direction for the camber change I wanted, so I had to back it off and rotate per the instructions.



Reinstall your sway bar links, ABS and brake lines, underhood covers and make sure everything's torqued properly. Put your wheels back on and it's time for an alignment! I imagine the car will sit a little lower in front after I drive it a little so the springs settle in.



es

 

I figured as long as I had the car up on stands, I might as well tackle the rear axle shim install, too.

Even though my car is only 1.5 years old (37K miles), the brake drums were already recalcitrant. Some penetrating fluid and a good bash with the brass hammer convinced 'em otherwise! With the drum off, access to the four bolts that hold the axle stub in place is easy.



I found after experimentation that you don't even need to remove the brake line, parking brake cable or ABS line. It's a bit tight getting the stub out past the mounting plate (be careful to not yank too hard and bend the brake line).



My shims came with a chart on which you plotted the desired toe and camber to determine how to orient the shim.



I just wanted to change toe and leave camber alone, so these were my settings:



Armed with that knowledge, a template showed where to trim the shim to clear the mounting bolts:



Carefully slip the axle stub back in place and bolt and torque everything back down. The brake drum slips back over the studs, install your wheels and you're done!

Here's my alignment sheet from about a month ago (before camber bolts and shims), and I'll post an update after I get the car realigned. The handwritten notes are what I'm shooting for.



es

 

My final mod while I had the car up for springs, camber bolts and shims was to replace my EX grille with an LX grille. Since I'm planning to run my first-ever AutoX in a couple weeks, I also dug out my OEM tow hook, gave it a wipe of laquer thinner and then painted it red before installing in the front bumper. I didn't like the gaping hole left by removing the cap, so I drilled a hole in it and installed the hook through that.



es

 

it looks really good. You're the test subject for the shims. I've had them for over a year and I just couldn't bring myself to install them. Did the hubs torque down properly to the torsion beam with the shims? I've heard horror stories of them crushing and not torquing to spec. I look forward to your alignment sheet. If this works for you, I'm next to do it :-)

 

Oh, as for negative camber, I found -1.7 is excellent for daily driving. Tire wear actually improved because most of the wear I get in stock form is on the outside. I have a completely stock Fit as well and these cars roll over so much turning onto on ramps and stuff the camber actually goes positive. -1.7 has no ill handling either, like tramlining on tar seams or brake squirm. Handles really well.

A/Xing and track is much more aggressive and I soon found -1.7 isn't enough. I'm at -2.5 and it's a little squirmy on freeways with tar lines, but only at 70+ mph. I am also noticing higher inside tire temps with -2.5, but -1.7 stayed virtually the same temp as stock 0 camber after long freeway driving.

Call the alignment shop and let them know what you want and ask if they will do it. It's surprising how many shops don't understand what you're trying to achieve.

 

Thanks. Since there are no shop manuals out for the GK yet (that I know of - other than the expensive subscription service, which I don't have), I used the TLAR* method, and they seemed to snug down evenly and with no apparent problems. The alignment will tell!

Thanks for the tip on camber, too. My autoxing coworker (Miata) recommended starting with -1.0°, but I'll go ahead and use -1.7° and see how it goes. The shop I use does some resto and rod work and should be cool with a custom alignment.

es

* "That Looks About Right"

 

Thank you for posting up the video. Sounds nice! Great pics of the suspension setup being installed too.

 

Your new stance looks great with your rims and fatter tires! Now remind me, you got the Down SUS springs right, not the superdown? I was looking to get the Down SUS ones because I don't want much of a drop, but I do want to stiffen the suspension. That Mugen lip would really finish it off if you went that route.

The stock tow hook looks good painted like that. For the front grill, what's the difference? The LX grill just doesn't have that chrome embellishment in the front? Any other differences? Why not shoot it with some dark paint?

As for tightening specs, I always went with German spec. "Gutentite" Avoid Russian spec of "Brokanoff" lol