I certainly will!! Just dug myself out of about 10 inches of snow while the rest of Connecticut got over two feet!

I still need to figure out which fuse for the daytime running lamps I need to remove. Daytime running lamps are not required in my state but I do like having them.

It will be a few days before I can get to this little project due to the weather. I'm still researching if there is a conversion kit to prevent the Daytime Running lamp circuit from making the LEDs strobe/flash/blink


COMMENT: Am following this functional mod with great interest. Definitely in my mod plans for 2015!!!! For now, am using Osrams NightBreakers. They're much brighter than OEM's, but being boosted Halogens, lifespan is limited. Looking forward to your final results. - rttby

 

I installed DRLs on two cars, and I got a discount from my insurance company. I'm glad the Fit has them standard.

 

Me too I like them as a feature and promotes safety. If I can't figure out some way to have the led H4 headlight high beam work properly in DRL mode then I will reroute the circuit to an auxiliary light kit that will function as it intended.

 

Understood thank you!! Yeah total snow for me was about 10-12 inches, the eastern part of the state got boned with over 2 feet, some areas 33 inches and I think Boston was like 36 inches!!!!


No need to remove fuse #17 under the hood?

 

Still researching and testing. The pulse signal for the DRL circuit can be smoothed out to a constant voltage to allow for correct LED operation and not strobe/flicker. The only issue I think might happen is a smoothing cap will bring the RMS voltage from ~8-9VDC to full 12VDC, causing the DRL brightness to be at full power on the high beam. If that's the case then nope back tot he drawing board.


I plan to use a properly sized diode to prevent backfeed into the DRL and high beam circuit. Depending on the resistance of the high beam circuit of the LED controller I may need a bleed resistor across the cap too.


The R/C LPF looks to be the most convenient and readily available parts at rat shack. I may try an R/L LPF but I would need an o-scope to accurately measure the frequency of the PWM and size the inductor properly for frequency and amperage.


I ordered this adapter so I can add my proposed filter, and avoid cutting into the stock harness. It will also serve me well if my filter design does not work and I will need to figure out another solution, possibly with relays.

 

Sonofabitch in a Prius whipped around a corner had to be going about 45-50mph around a corner. He took the corner beyond wide and into my lane. Thank goodness I had that T street to maneuver out of the way.

Want to thank the forumites who convinced me to have a dashboard cam in my car, because this video alone would be evidence to sue the shit out of the numbnuts!!

 

I bet that got your heart pumping. I wonder if he was talking on the phone or texting.

 

A few things discovered:

1. It is mother effing cold in CT right now cannot do much outside
2. There is no fuse #17 in the under hood fuse panel. The space is empty.
3. Fuse #25 under the dash disables the DRL circuit completely. (thank you thaipinoy1!!)
4. The DRL circuit (connected to the high beam hot connector) seems to power BOTH the Low/High beams of the LED kit. The low beam is steady on, and the high beam is strobing/flickering. There is no brightness difference between normal/DRL mode. This likely negates building an R/C filter, but the parts are on their way.

Next steps:

1. Install the LED headlights and foglights and disable the DRL circuit for now. Its just too...fucking cold outside in CT! That we have another foot of snow coming Monday...so they say

2. Build/Try the R/C filter with two 4700uF 35V caps and two 10A diodes with the pigtail harnesses (H4 male to H4 female) and see if this corrects flickering. This exercise may prove moot at this point since no brightness change between DRL and normal mode.

3. Back probe fuse#25 and see where in the DRL circuit chain its located. Likely it is the main power fuse to the DRL module but figure check anyway.

4. Determine if the stock DRL module output to the H4 headlight connector can be rerouted to say the foglights? To do this I need to locate where the DRL relay is located as well as the fog light relay.

5. Another option would be to leave the stock DRL module disabled, and install a universal DRL relay harness control. From there I can route that to either the foglights or new separate DRL's (New DRL lights sound easier to do than rerouting wires)

6. Take a few shots of whiskey to warm up from being outside figuring all this shit out!

I got a few ideas going here. Someway, somehow I will find/create a viable solution to preserve the DRL functionality!!!

 

Hello to all.


Test fitted the LEDs yesterday:


1. The LED bulb itself fits perfectly! the wire clip is a bitch to work with though.
2. The rubber boot that seals the bulb and lenses from the elements you will have to cut/modify slightly in order to fit the fan assembly and the wire coming off the LED bulb itself. Cutting the boot is unavoidable, so I ordered two new ones where I will have spares if I wanted to return the car back to stock. This is part# 33126-SWA-A01 for those who like un-invasive mods
3. Fuse 25 is the main power fuse TO the DRL module. I thought it was a fuse between the DRL module and H4 light connector.



Here is a picture to show the difference in output color temp. I'll provide better pictures to compare output pattern and intensity of the LEDs compared to the halogens. Halogen on the driver side, LED on the passenger side. I didn't do the fogs yet as you need to remove a panel underneath the car to change the bulb. Sub zero temps are discouraging me from doing anything outside at this point.


What I will confirm is the LEDS are WAY brighter! Well worth the investment I think.

 

The stock Honda bolt has fine pitched threads with a pointed head. The standard hardware store bolt of the same size has course pitched threads. If you used this one on the vehicle you will ruin the stud. Do yourself a favor, order the stock Honda bolt before making an attempt at changing out the strut until you have two extra bolts on standby just in case. you will seriously shoot yourself in the foot if Murphy's Law causes the bolt on your vehicle to be seized, rusted, stripped, and pretty much effed




Next part is the LED headlight mod. Got the rubber weather boots in, cut them as shown in the picture to make the fan assembly fit, and allow the wire through the boot and still be sealed from the elements.

 

I will! I promise! I got another foot of snow coming my way Sunday night, plus its not climbing any higher than ~15 degrees F during the day, and worse at night. Also not having a garage is a detractor. If I had one many of my mods would be done in the comfort of that space with a large propane heater! :-(

Will keep you posted dude!




COMMENT: That make two of us waiting for the night time test. Am sure a lot more are very interested. Great work and perfect pics for guidance. Keep up the share!!! - rttby

 

I have so many things I want to do to the car


LED headlight/foglight mod
Switchback LED strips as the new DRLs & turn signal winkers
2nd LED Cargo Light
Rear Air Strut Conversion
Rear HD camera
Cold weather kit: Engine Block Heater & Battery Warmer
...Still thinking of more stuff!


However, its temps like these below that prevent me with not having a garage.









Most certainly I will be installing the engine block heater part# 08T44-SNA-101 and a (see below) thermal wrap battery warmer. The Fit started up early AM today, but it was SLOW cranking. These upgrades should help somewhat for these cold as f**k mornings.






In other news, my trailer is built! Just waiting on registration to come through then I'm going to pick it up! Pictures of course will follow.

 

are you really going to mod the car for just a few odd cold mornings? i am in your area, and my car whined a little bit this morning but fired up fine.

 

Yessir. better to have it then to not, minimize the wear and tear. You never know when you might need it. Don't forget I have no garage, so the vehicle is outside 24/7. That may change next season though with one of those temporary jobs...





Doing it for the reason simply that I live in New England. Always be prepared.


I mean I see people who do not have snowblowers and shovel some of our 2ft+ snow storms by hand!! For example:


I see so many half wits (like my neighbors) who use a snowblower this small for big storms on their driveways. Some even are electric powered.





When they really should have a MAN'S SNOWTHROWER which I have:

 

meh, i don't see the need. we are not in the frozen tundra of the north, so it is not a common occurance.

my fit is not garaged either. i have a small machinery shed that i put the s2000 in from thanksgiving to march. the fit does not have that luxury.

 

Depends on where in NY you are! -15°F at my place this morning......though the Fit was in the garage so that didn't matter. That tiny battery is the biggest issue in the Fit. A higher capacity battery and synthetic oil will do wonders for being parked outside in sub-zero weather.

 

Honestly I do see the need. As others mentioned if I had a garage then it wouldn't matter. seeing as I dont and CT in general has been seeing more prolonged bitter cold weather to me it makes perfect sense. Cost seems nominal too. I'll have the battery warmer blanket by Thursday. That is a quick add on to install. I should notice an immediate effect.

The engine block heater requires removing the under plastic panel and replacing the block drain plug for the antifreeze with this heater, which ideally requires the car to be on a lift. My uncle has a lift and a "pit" to work on cars, thats where I will install it myself after the winter. Dealer will kill me on installation cost for sure, but I'll still see how much they'd charge me just to see how much I'm saving myself.

 

I've been tempted a few times to get a dual-stage blower, but honestly, I have too much fun plowing our two long driveways with the 8N…



es

 

Are you going to install that yourself? It's an easy screw-in, but getting to it could be labor-intensive.

Is it thermostatically controlled? Do you know how many watts it uses?

Same questions for the battery warmer.

 

A. Yes I will install it myself, or at least try anyway. You are correct to get to it I need to remove the undercarriage covers. Once I do that it should be easy to replace the drain plug with this.


it is not thermostatically controlled, its always on. You can easily add a 30-35F thermostatic outlet. Basically turns on below 30 degrees, and shuts off above 35 degrees F.


IDK the exact wattage till I buy it (maybe this week) if I had to wager a guess, I'm going to say 400 watts. Figure a bit less than a 1500 watt electric heater on low.




B. The battery warmer is 80 watts, not controlled.




Here are a few pics from a 2013 Accord. I'd imagine similar procedure.







Again the installation looks to be straight forward. It also looks like the later part of this week the below 20 weather looks to be subsiding. Right now the battery warmer is doing its job well. I already notice it cranks a bit better, still less time warming up means more gas saved and better MPG with a pre-heated engine on those -15F mornings.