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Had my GK for almost a year, now to put some parts in it!
Hey guys, new member, been creeping on the forum for a few months and am looking for suggestions and sites I could find parts. Got a budget of about $500 but would be coming from a credit card. As of now the car is stock but I've got some lowering springs I can put on it and am planning on painting the stock wheels black. I would like to get an axle back exhaust (preferably the Bisimoto pulse chamber), or a CAI because I feel the car is too quiet for my liking. I haven't really found much else I was interested in because I don't know where to look for these things, I would appreciate any pointers on where I could find decent priced parts or suggestions on some first mods.
What's your goal for the car? That may help people suggest components to fit your goal, otherwise people will just suggest stuff they have on their car lol
I don't think they produce the Bisimoto any longer. I think there is a thread someone was trying to drum up enough for them to make a run of 10.
I'd like to take it to a track sometime so I know coilovers would be the best route suspension wise but for now I'd like it a little lower, maybe spacers in the rear so the rear wheels are more flush with the body and probably a little more power. Hard to figure out what to try doing with it because my budget isn't the biggest lol.
What kind of springs? Probably Koni orange shocks too if you're going to lower the car, and a rear sway helps reduce understeer a lot. This is assuming by track you mean something like an open track day and not an autocross where the mods change what class you run in.
I did put an exhaust on, but it was only after the RV6 downpipe, I'm not sure it's worth the trouble otherwise. Not enough companies putting their products on a dyno to tell the gains.
-Springs
-Rigid Collars (ebay brand or that savanini brand)
-Megan Racing Front Lower Control Arm Brace (MRS-HA-1290)
-Megan Racing Rear Add-On Sway Bar (MRS-HA-1293) (cause its cheaper than progress)
-buy "window weld" and use it to fill your Torque Rod and do a poor mans alternative to the Hasport Rear Motor Mount
-PowerFlex Front Control Arm Front Bushing + PowerFlex Front Control Arm Rear Bushing + PowerFlex Rear Beam Mounting Bushing (HUGE upgrade, but also a huge pita to install)
good luck on the bisimoto.... they probably wont make anymore... ever. you'll need to buy it off someone. OR .... you can buy a helmholtz resonator and get a muffler shop to weld it onto a straight pipe for ya
What kind of springs? Probably Koni orange shocks too if you're going to lower the car, and a rear sway helps reduce understeer a lot. This is assuming by track you mean something like an open track day and not an autocross where the mods change what class you run in.
I did put an exhaust on, but it was only after the RV6 downpipe, I'm not sure it's worth the trouble otherwise. Not enough companies putting their products on a dyno to tell the gains.
In regard to modifying your car for autocross changing the class. The problem is people modifying their car before reading the rule book. This is the path the OP is going down. The street classes are designed to be low budget. The Fit would fit into HS or H-Street. The allowable modifications are one sway bar change front or rear. Adding the Progress bar would fit into those rules. Any two way adjustable shock/strut using stock springs. The Koni yellow or orange would fit into this. Any Cat back exhaust. Any alignment. Stock width wheels +/- 1" in diameter with no more than a 7mm offset change using any 200TW tire.
So for sake of discussion the OP who's on a limited budget could build a HS car for maybe under $1500? That would be the Koni orange, Progress rear sway bar, alignment, and a set of RE-71R or the new Yokohama's? Under $1000 using his stock wheels.
I've autocross my Fit in both Chicago and Milwaukee in HS. Two competitive regions with current and past national champions and many in the trophies. Overall on PAX I usually finish mid pack. Only modifications I've done to my car are a set of 205/50/16" RE-71R tires and a set of wheels for the tires. Nothing else. The Fit isn't the car to have for HS. Why throw extra money at a car that isn't going to beat the Fiesta ST, Fiat Abarth, 8th Gen Civic Si or other more competitive cars in the class.
Can the OP have fun auto crossing his Fit in HS The answer is yes. It's more in line with his budget. Adding coil over, lowering springs, CAI and other things will bump him into other/higher (more expensive) classes.. Can he have fun in those more expensive/faster classes? Probably yes? Depends on his tollerance and if he likes bringing a knife to the HS gunfight or wants to bring a knife to machine-gun. rocket launcher or other higher SCCA class where guys buy $12K Penske shocks? The difference in speed between him and the fast guys in those classes will be dramatic. In HS he might be able to knock off some of the slower guys in faster cars. That's fun.
Money and time would actually be better spent on a set of tires, and either some local autocross instruction, or divers school, or time with a track day instructor . Unfortunately, that's doesn't have the same bragging rights at the meet as saying I bought ______ mod for my car.
End of the day, it's his money and his car. He can spend it how he chooses.
I had seen his track time post. I was basically responding to the AutoX comment that I quoted. I'm not trying to be arguementative but "Track" is pretty subjective depending on who or what crowd one is talking to. With the Subaru crowd about 50% of the time that usually means drag strip.
Regardless, the OP's budget of $500 is a set of tires regardless of where he plans on taking it.
Not knowing if the OP's budget included safety equipment and/or entry fees?
Cheap SA2015 helmet is $200 unless loaners might be available? I believe the SCCA Track Night America or whatever it's called is usually around $150. Not sure what Gridlife or other track type events cost? Autocross where I live is usually $25-$50 depending on the club. Similar costs for test and tune nights at the drag strip.
Rob, good point about the tires. I never think about them as a mod, but I got used to bike tire lifespan being around 5k for the front, 3k for the rear, so it's almost like an oil change interval in my head. Consumable items, not like a hardware change. Back when I had a fast car I never went to any kind of track event, but I thought 20k front and 10k rear was fantastic tire life.
Mind you, I'm not a particularly skilled driver and I wasn't racing people on the street, but it's still hard to remember that for many people swapping the tires is a big deal because they last so long. And then it gets frustrating talking to anyone who just looks for the cheapest tire they can find.
OP, if you haven't put decent tires on the car yet, that's probably the single biggest performance improvement you can get. Helps with acceleration, cornering, braking, and might save you from a crash even if you never make it to the track.
I ended up going with more cosmetic stuff, RS replica spoiler, bisimoto axleback (found on FB), license plate frame, plastidip. I recently did the CRZ short shifter install ( https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...ml#post1446476 ), got a eBay lip and some Megan coilovers that will be going on tomorrow. Oh and 25mm spacers in the rear.
The bug has bitten me and I need to assemble a list of what I want to get it dialed in. Gonna need wheels and tires and a gurney flap to be pleased with the outside appearance.
Man am I terrible at updating my stuff on here, but a man some friends got together one day and put the coilovers on set it up to an inch and a half drop in the front didn't touch anything on the rear and they're perfect. We did have to remove the spacers because the back wheels rubbed a lot but I do have smaller ones I may throw on there at some point.
Another update! My tires were getting a little old and cracked so I decided to get new ones, nothing fancy because I got wheels too and was trying to keep it around 1k. A local shop was able to get the konig hypergrams for cheaper than online. When they were being installed he was worried about the fitment, I definitely should get my fenders rolled but currently don't have the spare time. For the time being I'll be dealing with a rough ride.
Last pic before new wheels get installed. 15x7.5 bronze konig hypergram Pic from the shop. Gummy grip in Las Vegas has some great prices and are very helpful. Picked up a 400gram shift knob for $35 (I think that's a good price)
What amazes me is that you could wait a whole year to modded!!!!
When i bought mine....I think I already had the header/collector and the Tanabe Medallion axle back on the carts ready to hit the "place order button" 🤣😂!!!!
Mods so far:
-Sumole air cooler
-Drop in k&n air filter
-RV6 catted header/collector
-2¼" "B" pipe (will do "mandrel bend" if it works)
-Tanabe Medallion axle back
-CRZ BuddyClub short Shifter
-Acuity shifter cable bushings
-Acuity accel. pedal reloc. bracket
-KTuner V2
Intake mods...
-Covered up all sound deadening holes on oem airbox to force all air through intake to the throttle body
-k&n drop in filter
Fun part...
Got ahold a used but nice condition CR-V throttle body and since it WON'T fit the oem intake manifold a friend of mine and I fabricated an aluminum spacer to adapt it...
-I also disassembled the oem elbow from the airbox and used a 63mm x 70mm 90 degree elbow since that is the "bottleneck" of the tiny intake....
SIDE NOTE:
i haven't been able to dyno it, but... the "butt dyno" feels pretty good after the mods
What amazes me is that you could wait a whole year to modded!!!!
When i bought mine....I think I already had the header/collector and the Tanabe Medallion axle back on the carts ready to hit the "place order button" 🤣😂!!!!
Mods so far:
-Sumole air cooler
-Drop in k&n air filter
-RV6 catted header/collector
-2¼" "B" pipe (will do "mandrel bend" if it works)
-Tanabe Medallion axle back
-CRZ BuddyClub short Shifter
-Acuity shifter cable bushings
-Acuity accel. pedal reloc. bracket
-KTuner V2
Intake mods...
-Covered up all sound deadening holes on oem airbox to force all air through intake to the throttle body
-k&n drop in filter
Fun part...
Got ahold a used but nice condition CR-V throttle body and since it WON'T fit the oem intake manifold a friend of mine and I fabricated an aluminum spacer to adapt it...
-I also disassembled the oem elbow from the airbox and used a 63mm x 70mm 90 degree elbow since that is the "bottleneck" of the tiny intake....
SIDE NOTE:
i haven't been able to dyno it, but... the "butt dyno" feels pretty good after the mods
Wife, kids, work all kept delaying parts and installs but it's coming along nicely.
I talked the wife into a getting a new intake! Increased power and fuel economy how could she say no!
I got the HPS Cai/short ram intake. Installed it as short ram because I'm impatient, don't have a garage and it's 115 in Vegas. Very happy with it so far. Definitely a little loss in low end but I'm also not 100% used to it. This little engine sounds so much better and livelier above 4k.
It's ugly but it works. I used a piece off the intake to help direct air to the filter better. No heat shield because they only send it in the short ram specific item. I mostly drive hwy so I don't think heat soak is an issue, but we will see.