I know there are are some threads on this but couldn't find a specific info for my scenario, hence asking.

Have an 09 Sport AT and my AC fan is acting up. In order for me to make it come on, I need to toggle the air circulation lever a couple of times and then the fan comes on. Also the fan makes weird sound. From my research resistor needs to be replaced when fan only runs on high (4th speed) but in my case all speeds work (once i toggle the airflow).

So do I need a new blower motor or resistor or both?

Also if a new blower is needed, is there any recommendation for higher performance / more powerful blower or different resistor? The Fit factory fan speeds are not great compared to other cars, not much air comes out when it's set to blow from front and floor vents, especially first three speeds. You can feel some what decent airflow if the only the front vents are blowing.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Maybe the ac switch is going bad. When you are flopping the recirculating lever it might be knocking a failing component inside the switch around into the "correct position".

Im unaware of an upgraded fan cor our cars. But i do agree the output sucks. I immediately noticed the difference switching from my scion when i first got the Fit.

Ive been running an afternarket blower motor and resistor for i think 3 years now, with no issues. It unfortunately doesnt have any higher airflow....but was much cheaper than OE. Also dont forget to check and change the cabin filter as to maximize airflow.

 

I have a 2013 Fit and had the same exact problem.
I replaced the blower only, not the resistor, and it works again like a charm.

 

Thanks, the issue persist even if I dont turn on the AC.

 

Good to know. I have ordered both, will replace the blower motor first and see if that helps. Will keep this forum posted.

 

also, the replacement of this fan is DEAD SIMPLE.
Literally unplug the wiring harness, unscrew three screws. put the new fan on with same three screws and reattach the wiring harness. done. took ten minutes total.

 

Update: Replaced the fan it's working so far without any fuss. Guess I'll return the resistor.

 

Good to know..
Why not just replace resistor too? I think most consider the fan/resistor a combo maintenance deal. Also did u use OE parts or aftermarket?

 

Apologies for the late reply.

Is there a benefit to replacing it proactively, i.e. will it prevent other failures etc? My thinking was why touch something that's not broken but if there is any benefit i'll do it.

Aftermarket.

 

I get it. Leaving the old one in till it goes out gets the most out if it. Could be fine for a long time.

My thinking with some things is just to optimize/restore the section of car im working on, assuming i have the funds to do so of course. Example is i recently replaced my coilovers, which i felt i needed because i didnt like the ride. But figured since i was in there id replace the lower control arms, endlinks and add a lower brace. Wanted to make sure the front end was "optimized". Took months to accumulate the parts tho. Lol.

 

Makes sense.

At how many miles did you replace coilover, control arms etc? And how much did it cost?

 

Im at ~75,000. Main reason i replaced Lcas was i bumped a curb in some ice a couple years ago. Enough to ruin the wheel bearing and dent the wheel. My alignment always was fine after...but i always felt like the LCAs or ball joints cant be ok.

Second set of coilovers. First was Tein streets swapped in at 55k. . Were ok but to soft and "comfortable".oem suspension was fine. Wanted a drop though.

BC coilovers 1k

Moog endlinks about $20 for both /pair..discounted on ebay. At the time they were around $40ish new/pair

Lcas run about $220 each from honda...scored singles at different times on ebay new.. totalling about $100 combined.

Cusco brace was around $180 new

R/L honda axles, as mentioned before, replaced free under warranty at dealer.

 

thank you so much for the detailed info.

 

Thank you for this post as I'm experiencing the same exact thing in my GD3. AC motor won't activate at any speed setting and toggling the air input selector a few times resolves it. It's gotten noticeably worse the last few days though where I have to toggle the input selector more. Guess I'll just replace the fan/motor even though I don't like to use the parts canon.

 

I got a cheap one off of Ebay and it works fine. Getting one from Honda is silly since it's probably just like the one your replacing. Most of the parts from Honda are great, fan motors that fail i'm not so sure about. Besf of luck Clay

 

I had to modify the fan blade to fit the car so keep that in mind if you do it yourself. It may not fit out of the box if you get a cheap one. Clay

 

I had the "blower only works at top speed" problem a few years ago. I figured it would be the classic blown resistor problem, but I googled it. There is a TSB for this: The fan bearings go bad and the fan starts drawing enough current to blow the resistor. In other words, they cheaped out on the fan motor. It wouldn't hurt to replace the fan motor AND the resistor. If you don't replace the fan but only the resistor, it'll blow again.