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OEM vs. Carbon Hood/Hatch Weight

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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 03:23 AM
  #1  
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OEM vs. Carbon Hood/Hatch Weight

So, after two fruitless hours googling, i'm asking the audience: does anyone know what the OEM hood and hatch/trunk lid weigh, and what replacement OEM-style carbon fiber equivalents (Seibon, for instance) weigh? wondering if the (assumed) weight saving is worth the price. (Also open to any general advice on cutting weight, other than wheel/tires, on a DD) Thanks in advance!
 
Old Feb 27, 2013 | 10:55 AM
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I guess it depends on what your goals are. Wheels/tires would be the best weight target to start with because they can be replaced relatively inexpensively and besides road grip for the tires they represent unsprung weight, which affects rotational inertia and handling. If you were in this heavily you could also start by stripping the cabin of seats, panels, spare tire, etc. Then, at much higher cost move on to light weight body parts. There are others here who actually track race Fits and other cars and they can probably add a lot more to this.
 
Old Feb 27, 2013 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by doane2u
I guess it depends on what your goals are. Wheels/tires would be the best weight target to start with because they can be replaced relatively inexpensively and besides road grip for the tires they represent unsprung weight, which affects rotational inertia and handling. If you were in this heavily you could also start by stripping the cabin of seats, panels, spare tire, etc. Then, at much higher cost move on to light weight body parts. There are others here who actually track race Fits and other cars and they can probably add a lot more to this.
Thanks, I left out wheels/tires because I'm already doing that (should have said that originally). Like I said, it's my DD, and will likely STAY my DD, so I'm not going to strip the interior. Replace, not remove. I'm not going forced induction, so weight reduction is my main/only option. I'd REALLY like to get hard numbers on OEM and carbon weights. Anyone???
 
Old Feb 27, 2013 | 02:38 PM
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I had a hell of a time finding any info myself

555sexydrive posted on here that the GE CF hood saves about 6 lbs over stock, that was a JDM hood, I would assume the GD hood would be around that. Lets get optimistic and say the hatch saves 20 lbs over stock, so ~26 lbs.

That comes to about $46 a lb if the hood and hatch cost ~$1200 (that's from Seibon)

You could save the same weight removing the spare and jack for $0 and put a can of fix a flat (~1lb) - 25lbs = 24lbs weight savings!

Up to you if it's worth the price I guess. It is a daily driver.
 
Old Feb 27, 2013 | 03:30 PM
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If you want to save weight, go with a smaller battery.

For $$$ there is the PWJDM battery relocation kit that will mount a Odyssey PC680 under there and net you around a 20 pounds savings. Combined kit (bracket and battery) from them is like $250=tax/shipping

Also, look into a set of bucket seats. F1 spec makes reasonably priced "Recaro" like buckets that will save between 20-30 pounds per seat. I think a pair of there type 4 or 5 seats is like $400 shipped at the moment. Still need brackets and sliders and such.

So that is two sub $$$$ options to remove 20+ pounds for you

If after that you still want to remove more poundage, get a custom exhaust that's shorter. I plan to "side exit" mine where the B pipe bends and runs under the passenger.

Those three options are also all SCCA Street Touring legal
 

Last edited by TPColgett; Feb 27, 2013 at 03:32 PM.
Old Feb 27, 2013 | 11:09 PM
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I have a seibon hood and hatch and there is only a few pounds each in savings. I dont have the exact amount. U want to save weight take out the spare tire. That weighs more than what u would be saving.
 
Old Feb 28, 2013 | 01:07 AM
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Go on a diet? (just kidding)
 
Old Feb 28, 2013 | 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by TPColgett
If you want to save weight, go with a smaller battery.

For $$$ there is the PWJDM battery relocation kit that will mount a Odyssey PC680 under there and net you around a 20 pounds savings. Combined kit (bracket and battery) from them is like $250=tax/shipping

Also, look into a set of bucket seats. F1 spec makes reasonably priced "Recaro" like buckets that will save between 20-30 pounds per seat. I think a pair of there type 4 or 5 seats is like $400 shipped at the moment. Still need brackets and sliders and such.

So that is two sub $$$$ options to remove 20+ pounds for you

If after that you still want to remove more poundage, get a custom exhaust that's shorter. I plan to "side exit" mine where the B pipe bends and runs under the passenger.

Those three options are also all SCCA Street Touring legal
thanks, Tyler, your advice is, as always, useful and to the point. any brand recommendation for the seats? and where exactly does the battery end up with the relocate, i.e., how involved of an install is it? (also, what is the PW part of PWJDM?)
 
Old Feb 28, 2013 | 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Previc93
I have a seibon hood and hatch and there is only a few pounds each in savings. I dont have the exact amount. U want to save weight take out the spare tire. That weighs more than what u would be saving.
thanks; i figured the hood wasn't worth the money, even with the longer USDM nose, but i'd hoped the hatch might be worth it. oh well....
 
Old Feb 28, 2013 | 11:04 AM
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Seats might also deleate airbags am I right?
 
Old Feb 28, 2013 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Blurred Visionary
thanks, Tyler, your advice is, as always, useful and to the point. any brand recommendation for the seats? and where exactly does the battery end up with the relocate, i.e., how involved of an install is it? (also, what is the PW part of PWJDM?)
I totally just reread that and saw that you said F1 Spec.... ::facepalm::
 
Old Feb 28, 2013 | 02:41 PM
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take everything out inside just leave steering wheel and one seat Cheapest mod lol <3

get light weight rims to and call it a day
 
Old Feb 28, 2013 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Blurred Visionary
thanks; i figured the hood wasn't worth the money, even with the longer USDM nose, but i'd hoped the hatch might be worth it. oh well....
The rear glass is super heavy u could get lexan. Also i have a functional vented hood to lower my engine temps but like i said its maybe a few pounds difference. Definitely looks cool though.

Also pwjdm is passwordjdm.com
 

Last edited by Previc93; Feb 28, 2013 at 11:19 PM.
Old Mar 1, 2013 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Blurred Visionary
thanks, Tyler, your advice is, as always, useful and to the point. any brand recommendation for the seats? and where exactly does the battery end up with the relocate, i.e., how involved of an install is it? (also, what is the PW part of PWJDM?)
Any time! Happy to help

Like Previc93 said, PWJDM = passwordjdm.com

The "relocation" is super minor as it's just under the hood and turned 90 degrees. It was designed in conjunction with there intake to clear more room:


It might take you 30 minutes with standard hand tools.

Here is the direct link to the kit:
Password:JDM Battery Relocator 07-08 Fit | Password JDM

I also went back and dug through my records and photos... I overestimated a bit:

OEM battery tie down and tray weight = about 20lbs

Name:  2012-04-12_19-11-23_160_zpsebdd16d6.jpg
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Size:  58.4 KB

PWJDM Kit and Oydssey = about 15lbs

So its more of a net 5 pounds saved. It does significantly open up the engine bay though and make working on the car a ton easier.

Later this year I may be going to an ULTRA lightweight LiFePO4 type battery from Shorai. Looking at a LFX18L1-BS12, 270 CCA - 2.19 lbs. That's will get me down to something like 15+ pounds of weight saved This should also help with corner balancing/cross weight of the vehicle once I'm on coilovers
 

Last edited by TPColgett; Mar 1, 2013 at 04:00 PM.
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