OEM vs. Carbon Hood/Hatch Weight
OEM vs. Carbon Hood/Hatch Weight
So, after two fruitless hours googling, i'm asking the audience: does anyone know what the OEM hood and hatch/trunk lid weigh, and what replacement OEM-style carbon fiber equivalents (Seibon, for instance) weigh? wondering if the (assumed) weight saving is worth the price. (Also open to any general advice on cutting weight, other than wheel/tires, on a DD) Thanks in advance!
I guess it depends on what your goals are. Wheels/tires would be the best weight target to start with because they can be replaced relatively inexpensively and besides road grip for the tires they represent unsprung weight, which affects rotational inertia and handling. If you were in this heavily you could also start by stripping the cabin of seats, panels, spare tire, etc. Then, at much higher cost move on to light weight body parts. There are others here who actually track race Fits and other cars and they can probably add a lot more to this.
I guess it depends on what your goals are. Wheels/tires would be the best weight target to start with because they can be replaced relatively inexpensively and besides road grip for the tires they represent unsprung weight, which affects rotational inertia and handling. If you were in this heavily you could also start by stripping the cabin of seats, panels, spare tire, etc. Then, at much higher cost move on to light weight body parts. There are others here who actually track race Fits and other cars and they can probably add a lot more to this.
I had a hell of a time finding any info myself 
555sexydrive posted on here that the GE CF hood saves about 6 lbs over stock, that was a JDM hood, I would assume the GD hood would be around that. Lets get optimistic and say the hatch saves 20 lbs over stock, so ~26 lbs.
That comes to about $46 a lb if the hood and hatch cost ~$1200 (that's from Seibon)
You could save the same weight removing the spare and jack for $0 and put a can of fix a flat (~1lb) - 25lbs = 24lbs weight savings!
Up to you if it's worth the price I guess. It is a daily driver.

555sexydrive posted on here that the GE CF hood saves about 6 lbs over stock, that was a JDM hood, I would assume the GD hood would be around that. Lets get optimistic and say the hatch saves 20 lbs over stock, so ~26 lbs.
That comes to about $46 a lb if the hood and hatch cost ~$1200 (that's from Seibon)
You could save the same weight removing the spare and jack for $0 and put a can of fix a flat (~1lb) - 25lbs = 24lbs weight savings!

Up to you if it's worth the price I guess. It is a daily driver.
If you want to save weight, go with a smaller battery.
For $$$ there is the PWJDM battery relocation kit that will mount a Odyssey PC680 under there and net you around a 20 pounds savings. Combined kit (bracket and battery) from them is like $250=tax/shipping
Also, look into a set of bucket seats. F1 spec makes reasonably priced "Recaro" like buckets that will save between 20-30 pounds per seat. I think a pair of there type 4 or 5 seats is like $400 shipped at the moment. Still need brackets and sliders and such.
So that is two sub $$$$ options to remove 20+ pounds for you
If after that you still want to remove more poundage, get a custom exhaust that's shorter. I plan to "side exit" mine where the B pipe bends and runs under the passenger.
Those three options are also all SCCA Street Touring legal
For $$$ there is the PWJDM battery relocation kit that will mount a Odyssey PC680 under there and net you around a 20 pounds savings. Combined kit (bracket and battery) from them is like $250=tax/shipping
Also, look into a set of bucket seats. F1 spec makes reasonably priced "Recaro" like buckets that will save between 20-30 pounds per seat. I think a pair of there type 4 or 5 seats is like $400 shipped at the moment. Still need brackets and sliders and such.
So that is two sub $$$$ options to remove 20+ pounds for you

If after that you still want to remove more poundage, get a custom exhaust that's shorter. I plan to "side exit" mine where the B pipe bends and runs under the passenger.
Those three options are also all SCCA Street Touring legal
Last edited by TPColgett; Feb 27, 2013 at 03:32 PM.
I have a seibon hood and hatch and there is only a few pounds each in savings. I dont have the exact amount. U want to save weight take out the spare tire. That weighs more than what u would be saving.
If you want to save weight, go with a smaller battery.
For $$$ there is the PWJDM battery relocation kit that will mount a Odyssey PC680 under there and net you around a 20 pounds savings. Combined kit (bracket and battery) from them is like $250=tax/shipping
Also, look into a set of bucket seats. F1 spec makes reasonably priced "Recaro" like buckets that will save between 20-30 pounds per seat. I think a pair of there type 4 or 5 seats is like $400 shipped at the moment. Still need brackets and sliders and such.
So that is two sub $$$$ options to remove 20+ pounds for you
If after that you still want to remove more poundage, get a custom exhaust that's shorter. I plan to "side exit" mine where the B pipe bends and runs under the passenger.
Those three options are also all SCCA Street Touring legal
For $$$ there is the PWJDM battery relocation kit that will mount a Odyssey PC680 under there and net you around a 20 pounds savings. Combined kit (bracket and battery) from them is like $250=tax/shipping
Also, look into a set of bucket seats. F1 spec makes reasonably priced "Recaro" like buckets that will save between 20-30 pounds per seat. I think a pair of there type 4 or 5 seats is like $400 shipped at the moment. Still need brackets and sliders and such.
So that is two sub $$$$ options to remove 20+ pounds for you

If after that you still want to remove more poundage, get a custom exhaust that's shorter. I plan to "side exit" mine where the B pipe bends and runs under the passenger.
Those three options are also all SCCA Street Touring legal
thanks; i figured the hood wasn't worth the money, even with the longer USDM nose, but i'd hoped the hatch might be worth it. oh well....
I totally just reread that and saw that you said F1 Spec.... ::facepalm::
Also pwjdm is passwordjdm.com
Last edited by Previc93; Feb 28, 2013 at 11:19 PM.

Like Previc93 said, PWJDM = passwordjdm.com
The "relocation" is super minor as it's just under the hood and turned 90 degrees. It was designed in conjunction with there intake to clear more room:

It might take you 30 minutes with standard hand tools.
Here is the direct link to the kit:
Password:JDM Battery Relocator 07-08 Fit | Password JDM
I also went back and dug through my records and photos... I overestimated a bit:

OEM battery tie down and tray weight = about 20lbs

PWJDM Kit and Oydssey = about 15lbs
So its more of a net 5 pounds saved. It does significantly open up the engine bay though and make working on the car a ton easier.
Later this year I may be going to an ULTRA lightweight LiFePO4 type battery from Shorai. Looking at a LFX18L1-BS12, 270 CCA - 2.19 lbs. That's will get me down to something like 15+ pounds of weight saved
This should also help with corner balancing/cross weight of the vehicle once I'm on coilovers
Last edited by TPColgett; Mar 1, 2013 at 04:00 PM.
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