I am trying to change a faulty oxygen sensor on my GD. I removed the exhaust manifold heat shield and the sensor clip is very awkward to remove from within the engine bay. I tried from underneath and that was no better!

Does anyone know specifically how to remove that clip? For example, does it have tabs on both side that need to be pressed in order to lift it out? Can I try WD40 on it? Graphite spray? Please help.

 

Nobody else found this awkward?

 

If you are talking about what I think you are talking about, I can never remember if those types of plugs need to be pinched or slightly pried apart for removal. Even when I can reach them easily and see what I'm doing, I have the same trouble. It's such a pain.

I haven't replaced an O/2 sensor yet. Maybe someone who has will arrive shortly.

Good luck.

 

okay I did this last night... on the black plug, you push down on the topright of the clip and pull it to the driverside, that will disconect it, then where the cable goes into the o2 sensor clip you have on the bottom a clip you press up and pull to the passenger side and slide the o2 clip off the flat metal holder bracket.

btw I used a 22mm for the o2 sensor
and a denso o2 part number from rockauto 2349060 (234-9060)
it was only $ 141.89 and advanceauto wanted 200

www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCrmcbJcMew

Here is a short video to help explain it better

 

Great, thanks for your help! I will give this a shot when my sensor arrives in the mail. I got mine from autopartsway.ca with an 8% off coupon code, still came to around $260 but it is at least cheaper than the dealer. I will definitely shop rockauto next time!

 

So I got it unclipped from the harness, thanks guys. The new one arrived today so I could figure out how its done by checking the new one...duh.

Now my question is, is it easier to remove the sensor itself from underneath or up top through the hood? I haven't found a guide on this one yet.

 

I did it from the top, but I also have small arms and hands...but my guess is that it would be easier from the bottom.

Also it might be hard to get the 22mm ratchet wrench on because of the hose that goes into the firewall...

 

I went from the top also, small arms and hands too, removed the battery and intake airbox...but I couldn't get enough leverage to loosen the sensor. I was using a ratchet with a bendable attachment in order to be able to even get the socket on the sensor...what an awkward spot. I tried letting the engine run for a few mins, WD40...no luck. I'm gonna give it another try tonight.

 

@devmail: WD-40 is not a lubricant, nor is it a penetrant. You might try a product like:

Old School: Break-Free (http://www.break-free.com/);

New School: Blaster ( ).

 

All I removed was the heat shield, and don't forget lefty loosey righty tighty... I made that mistake the first few times haha, I used very little wd 40 blue torch and let it sit for a hour or so, and don't forget to use anti seize.

 

I'm beginning to like anti-seize on everything. I recall that a guy at ARP told me to always use some kind of lube on fasteners.

ARP | The Official Web Site

 

Oh that sounds like a good idea

 

The new sensor came with anti-seize. :-)

 

I'll have to get some of those rust penetrators, cause I can't get this bloody thing out with such a tiny space to move in!

 

Best Penetrating Oil, Lubricant | Rust Inhibitor Spray | WD-40 Specialist