Some of you may have already started snickering after reading the title. Anyways, my 08 Fit only has about 60k miles as of today and i've experimented with different brands and types of synthetic 5w20 oils since i've owned it. TWICE, I have used Walmart's Supertech Full Synthetic oil and after the first time, I noticed in my recordkeeping book that a lot of oil had burned as it was down to about 3 quarts when drained. Every other brand i've used never had that issue and it has always held up to around 3.6-3.8 quarts upon draining the oil.

During my last oil change (September of 2013), I had exactly $17 cash (rare I had cash) and remembered I needed an oil change so I decided to give the Supertech Full Synth 5w20 stuff another shot. I noticed that the car didn't feel "the same" (for lack of a better term) but continued to just drive it as the Fit is basically my daily driver. In November when it was due for an oil change, I drained it out and noted that there was only 2.6-2.7 quarts in the drain pain. WOW, where did that oil go? I figured something might be wrong, however, I went back to using Valvoline Full Synthetic 5w20 and didn't look back as I didn't want to deal with any more expenses. Yesterday I changed my oil and voila, 3.8 quarts drained into the drain pan.

My thoughts - that Walmart Supertech Fully Synthetic 5w20 oil sure burns. I've never had this issue with ANY other 5w20 Synthetic Oils. My 2 favorite Synthetic oils are Castrol Edge and Valvoline, mainly because the car feels great and it doesn't take a huge chunk out of my wallet. Anyone else have similar experiences with Supertech oils?

 

out of curiosity, did you note a cange in mpg's using the old oil vs wallyworld's ? Perhaps the wallyworld stuff was a lot less viscose than 5W-20.

 

I noticed about 15-20 less per tank after 2 weeks.

 

your crazy!
I have 148,000 on my 2013 Fit and have only used Walmart full synth oil. I started with 5w30 and now 10w30...why so thick?? I drive 7 hours straight daily in 95 degree heat, i want a thick oil...anyhow.....I have NEVER had any oil leak or burn off! I change my own oil, fill it up, check the dipstick often, I change my oil around every 12,000 miles....long ways but thats when the Wrench light comes on. So every 12,000 miles using Walmart oil and the dipstick is just as full at drain time!

 

Yes, you are probably not measuring correctly.
It's not about "how many quarts came out", but whether the level changes with miles driven.

At your mileage, it shouldn't.

 

I exclusively use mag 1 0-20 synthetic which is same as Walmart supertech and have never had a problem, great oil. It's manufactured by warren petrolium products. (Look for wpp on bottom of bottle) they manufactur lots of branded synthetics, I believe Peak, pep boys synthetic, advanced auto, Walmart supertech and some OEM branded synthetics.

My 2007 Honda Ridgeline I have had since almost new has been exclusively 5-20 Walmart synthetic and 150,000 miles later doesn't seem to use a drop.

This is the oil I use in my fit, is great oil. You can do a oil analysis after your oil change if ya don't believe me :-)
MAG 1 20139 0W-20 Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0171XLTXA..._tEcsxbVVD3G7M

 

Super tech synthetic meets all the standards set by ilsac

 

I signed up with Valvoline protection plan so I am using premium conventional 5W20...

 

OP: you are not crazy. Thinner oil makes it easier to get around the rubber rings. However, your amount of oil loss is still within specifications. I will never use synthetic. I only use dinosaur oil. In the case of my Fit, I have never lost or burned a drop in the VTEC engine, nor my 2 liter Elantra Touring Engine. My Corolla engine on the other hand had a drinking problem like most of them do. I'll stick with cheap dinosaur oil, as many have said here, they all comply with current standards. If I were you, I'd just stick with the conventional oil and enjoy the ride.

 

When I did a valve clearance inspection around 63,000 or 8 years, I was pleasantly surprised how clean the engine was inside!! I used Quaker State oil before (from Home Depot, Autozone brand oil one time, and Valvoline Premium conventional during past 2 years.
I am changing oil between 20 and 15 % which translates to 5,500 miles or 8 months

 

At 147K on my GD3, I was already on my 30th conventional oil change, and she didn't burn a drop of oil. First engine that did this, and I'm fastidious about doing regular oil changes on all my vehicles. Then at 147K, got T-boned by a red light runner at high speed and that experiment ended. Really a shame, I wanted to know how long that engine would last.

Now I have a GK5 and doing full synthetic 0W-20 changes every 10K because I can't use conventional oil in that engine. The 0W-20 changes are twice as expensive, but I do them less often, so it's an even trade.

 

ive noticed with my fit trying to use 5w20 was crappy and so i moved on to 5w30 synthetic from quakerstate which is a shell brand company and no problems and i have 190k on the clock.

 

In my opinion, the difference in cost between the cheapest oil you can find, and the upper end, is so minimal that it isn't worth saving money, if you don't feel comfortable with the oil.

Therefore IMO, for whatever reason(s) if you haven't been happy with Wal-Mart supertech, then by all means switch.
Even if you are wrong and imagining it all? The peace of mind will be well worth it.

 

There is a difference in Synthetic oils especially when comparing class III to class IV/V oils. The quality stuff out there really makes a big difference. I understand the price is higher then the regular syn shelf you see but worth it especially when driving hard or racing.

I'm a huge fan of Torco lubricants and it feels so much better in the car then Castro, Shell, Royal Purple, etc. I use 5w30 SR-5R which runs about $23 a quart. Yeah with a K&N filter my oil change will run me close to $120. Also the beauty is that I can do only 1 sometimes 2 oil changes a year due to the quality.

 

Not arguing "Quality" but at that cost difference?
Would you say for most "normal" drivers, using any upper end oil that meets recommended specifications the difference is worth it?

I'm pretty much comparing using a Wal-Mart "Super Tech" to Mobil One or even Honda's own OEM oil. Or most easily obtained name brand oils.

The OP's dissatisfaction here isn't with all other oils, just his perceived results from one specific type. To me, the simplest solution then, is to simply use a different oil. I think for most of us, that doesn't necessarily mean changing to a $23 a quart choice.

And I don't know whether I would rather change a cheaper oil more frequently, or push an expensive oil longer.

I do however follow the Oil Life and Maintenance Minder.