Right now I'm running street tyre w/h-stock pax. I've got a progress RSB and 20/50 16 Star Specs. Own my class but too much damage to front tyres. Ready to jump to STF but can't afford coilovers. I'm looking for somebody with experience with just spring upgrade. I also drive ~30k a year.

 

I ran gymkhana in my old 5R at first with stock sussy and SWIFT, very first event I developed rod knock due to car pulling much more G's. Granted somewhat unrelated, just 2 Honda cars, sort of same form of motorsport (don't equate Ken Block vids to gymkhana) and SWIFT springs. I think you will like them, CoG is dropped slightly, will still have some roll, but not as pronounced as full stock. No fine tuning obviously, but the handling will be improved. Not sure about class rules in auto-x and how you will fair, but you already know you are not really beating others; beating and owning yourself in solo time events. That's how I always look at time attacks, gymkhana and auto-x. If my time is not improving each session barring extreme weather changes than I am sucking ass.

 

Oh I am beating others. Mostly w/PAX(class handicap multiplier) last event 3rd overall, 1st in class, 2012 Dixie SCCA National Tour RTF class win. I am looking more at reducing body roll/tyre wear. I have plenty of experience w/autox(18yrs) and modifications and what they do. I'm looking for specific experience in a fit autocrossed with just springs and not coil overs.

 

I'm assuming you are eating up the front shoulders? How much camber are you running? What size star specs are you running? 195? 205? 215?!?

 

205/50 16. Whatever is left of the factory setting after 30k+ miles. Without crash bolts, do you know how much camber is available?

 

I would try maxxing out front camber (I'm hoping for -1.5 to -1.8ish but I haven't put an alignment on it yet, maybe someone else can answer how much you can get from stock) and then 0 tow. This will help with turn-in and might solve a lot of your tire wear problems.

Why did you go with the 16" HFP size wheels? I was thinking 15" would be better because they are lighter and the smaller diameter would provide shorter "gearing" and help with acceleration. I am a little concerned about having to do a lot of 2-3 shifting with the 15" wheels but I'm use to it in the S2k.

 

Just read the stock class rules and you CAN use camber bolts. I love the OEM ones because it's not a cam type bolt, which i've had move during the middle of an event. I currently have OEM camber bolts on my coilovers. Those should put you around -.8* to -1* camber, which is better than stock (close to none, maybe even positive) and it still won't eat your tires if you have a toe setting of 0.

 

On my old Bilstein PSS suspension, I elongated one of the holes on the strut bracket and used the original bolts but pushed the top of the spindle in as far as possible. I achieved -1.8* on one side and -2.0* on the other. It made a big difference over the -1* I had, AND my hankooks (225/45/15) weren't getting chewed up on the shoulders

 

I know they're legal. I'm just not sure about driving 30k miles a year with them.

 

Stock class rules say stock size wheels. Can't even use Mugen 16x6.5in rims. Running stock 2011 sport rims 16x6 w/ black powder coating and S2000CR/1999 acura nsx black Lug nuts. Cuz I'm awesome like that!

 

Do you happen to have the honda part # and price you paid?

 

This is in the suspension section 13.8 and would lead me to conclued that you could not. I'm disappoint you can only get -.8 to -1deg of camber but then again, it is a beam rear axle econo car...

 

I was reading this on my phone and forgot you are in a GE which is 16" stock. I'm in a GD which is 15" stock.

 

13.8.E.

If

settings are permitted even if outside the normal specification or
range of specifications recommended by the manufacturer. If enlarging
mounting holes is specifically authorized but no material removal
limits are specified, material removal is restricted to the amount necessary
to achieve the maximum factory alignment specification.
I think this covers Honda OEM camber bolts

 

I went to the dealer today and they couldn't find what I was looking for. So I really need the OEM part numbers to get them ordered and installed by next week.

 

Ask and you shall receive!

90188-SCC-A00

You'll need 2, one for each side. They're listed as a "service" item because they're for alignment correction if it's out of spec. They're on the same damn diagram though... silly dealer
$3 a piece

PS: dailying on -1* is absolutely exceptable In fact you'll run out of center/outside tread from autoxing before you run out of inside tread from communiting (been there).

 

ok, camber bolts installed and aligned. -.2* driver and -.7* passenger w/me in car. I wonder what it was before. btw, -.5* passenger side w/me not in car.

 

I guess I should have kept reading...

I got a copy of the manual and sure enough, there it was. For the GD3 the part number is:
P/N 90188-SCC-A00

and you will need 4 of them to get the full adjustment. The factory setting is 0deg. With 2 bolts you can get 0.2deg and with 4 it says you can get 0.5deg. It's not much but I'll tak it.

Did you happen to check your rear toe and camber? I know there isn't anything we can do about it but I'm just curious. The factory settings are horrible for autocrossing.

 

I had 0.0* and +.2* stock

 

So, are you going to come and teach me a lesson tomorrow?