As usual, AJR, Fitfreak.net nor I (Fit of RAGE!) is responsible for ANY damages, problems to your vehicle. Please be EXTREMELY cautious and
perform this mod at your own discretion.

I kinda got carried away and ended up in "the Zone" when i was doing this so it's kinda a crappy DIY Anyway,


1) Purchase sway bar




2) Personally, i felt that taking the cat out is VERY useful, so remove cat



3) disconnect the sway bar from the link kits. You'll need an Allen head AND a 12mm wrench.





The reason you need to do this is that if you just use a 12mm, the link kit will most likely spin and you'll never get the bolt off.

4) support the vehicle front AND back as you'll need to drop the engine/tranny cradle a little








5) Unbolt the lower control arm. There are 3 bolts. two shown here and one in front.

6)


7) Now, unbolt the cradle from the car. there are 4 bolts in total. (two were from the control arm)




8) Unbolt the hold down bracket for the swaybar and lower the engine/tranny cradle just enough to get the swaybar out


9) Now, reverse the order. Make sure that you lube up the bushings REALLY well!!!

 

i would like to hear review.

 

it's AWESOME! great handling!!! Definately a good buy. I highly recommend it to anyone!!!

 

I did my Blox 24mm front sway bar today. Thanks for this DIY FoR awesome. The only thing I did different I left the Cat on when removing the bar back it all the way till it touches the Cat then pull the front ends of the sway bar down and remove backwards . Installation was the same start with sway bar backwards lift above the front of the cat and swing sway bar foreword. Thanks again for this DIY

 

How well is that Blox bar working for you... In regards to under steer and anything else in what ways can you tell it is working positively.. I've heard good things about the bar and need info before making an order.

 

Traditionally with Honda racing (reference honda challenge race cars) the front sway bar is either left stock or completely removed. If left stock, the rear is upgraded to decrease understeer. i cant see how this will benefit handling. the most it would do (I'm guessing) is like add spring rate to the front and less front body roll. this is GREAT on a RWD car.

I'm in the process of changing my spring rate ratio front and rear. right now I'm 12k front, 10k rear, stock front bar, progress 22mm rear. Its very very neutral. I want crazy tail happiness so I'm putting 16k rears and 13k front. I'm also staggering the front wheels wider. review and info soon to come.

 

Wow, I'd surely give my daughter whiplash with that kind of spring rates. Good info though. I put the front sway bar on because my front end was bottoming under hard braking turns. It helped a little but I ended up taking it out and put in a harder springs.

 

great write-up

 

sorry to bring back an old thread, but id like to ask if anyone who has upgraded to a thicker front swaybar encountered a low tone knocking noise that occurs over specific bumps?

im assuming it might be the bar hitting the subframe or something of the sort. any ideas?

im running tanabe df's, and t1r front swaybar and progress rear swaybar.

as for the review, id like to say that with just the progress swaybar, i already loved it for its oversteer, but with it feels more neutral but not in a way i would describe the car to understeer. although i would probably have to drive it more to give a better review.

 

The thicker sway bar hits the k member on the driver side. I hit the k member couple times with a mallet for clearance.

 

did you do the same thing here?

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...gress-rsb.html

how did you hit it with a hammer in that area? i think using a mallet would be the best non damaging way to give clearance haha.