Changing Wheels with Power tools
Changing Wheels with Power tools
I just wanted to see what Electric drills u guys used to remove the wheels, and how much torque did the electric drill provide for the application
I'm shopping for an electric drill and i wanted to see which one had enough power to take out the lug nuts, help is much appreciated
I dont know how much torque these electric drills need, so feel free to discuss about the best electric drill sets for taking out lug nuts
I'm shopping for an electric drill and i wanted to see which one had enough power to take out the lug nuts, help is much appreciated
I dont know how much torque these electric drills need, so feel free to discuss about the best electric drill sets for taking out lug nuts
I just do it by hand :[
I have a set of Muteki lug nuts..and the package says, "Do not use power tools." But when the guy who balanced&mounted my tires put them back on the car, he used power tools. -_- Getting some of them off was a PAIN in the butt when I was installing my springs. =/ But what I did was just add an extention metal pole thinger (not sure what it's called) and went at it for a good 20 minutes HAHA
GHETTTOo.
Random..but just I'd share in case something like that happens
Good luck! :]
I have a set of Muteki lug nuts..and the package says, "Do not use power tools." But when the guy who balanced&mounted my tires put them back on the car, he used power tools. -_- Getting some of them off was a PAIN in the butt when I was installing my springs. =/ But what I did was just add an extention metal pole thinger (not sure what it's called) and went at it for a good 20 minutes HAHA
GHETTTOo.Random..but just I'd share in case something like that happens
Good luck! :]
yea a lot of ppl do it by hand, but i saw my wheel guy changing wheels so fast, i got kinda jealous b/c of the ease and quickness, i asked him how much torque the drill had, but he didnt know anything about the equipment since he was only an employee
hmm, well i think the torque specs for the lugs were something like ~80 lbs.ft. on our cars or however you write it lol (don't quote me though because i can't really remember the number). so i'm guessing you would need a gun or electric drill that can provide more than that in order to drill the lugs off. is that right?
but yea don't use the gun for torquing the lugs on, but using it to get 'em off is fine. just be careful not to scratch up the wheels when you do so.
on a side note, i've actually never seen an electric drill used on lugnuts.
but yea don't use the gun for torquing the lugs on, but using it to get 'em off is fine. just be careful not to scratch up the wheels when you do so.
on a side note, i've actually never seen an electric drill used on lugnuts.
The torque spec for Honda lug nuts is 80 foot-lbs (on alloy wheels, anyway).
Rather than buying a drill, consider an electric impact wrench FOR REMOVAL ONLY, like this:
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
ALWAYS use a torque wrench to tighten your lug nuts, brake vibration could result if you don't. Not too expensive:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=239
Unless you are rebuilding engines, the cheap ones are fine. You are after a uniform tightness on each wheel, not precision.
Rather than buying a drill, consider an electric impact wrench FOR REMOVAL ONLY, like this:
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
ALWAYS use a torque wrench to tighten your lug nuts, brake vibration could result if you don't. Not too expensive:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=239
Unless you are rebuilding engines, the cheap ones are fine. You are after a uniform tightness on each wheel, not precision.
The torque spec for Honda lug nuts is 80 foot-lbs (on alloy wheels, anyway).
Rather than buying a drill, consider an electric impact wrench FOR REMOVAL ONLY, like this:
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
ALWAYS use a torque wrench to tighten your lug nuts, brake vibration could result if you don't. Not too expensive:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=239
Unless you are rebuilding engines, the cheap ones are fine. You are after a uniform tightness on each wheel, not precision.
Rather than buying a drill, consider an electric impact wrench FOR REMOVAL ONLY, like this:
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
ALWAYS use a torque wrench to tighten your lug nuts, brake vibration could result if you don't. Not too expensive:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=239
Unless you are rebuilding engines, the cheap ones are fine. You are after a uniform tightness on each wheel, not precision.
12 volt impact wrench
Here is a product you might be interested in. I learned of this tool while AutoXing with mrFroge. When he pulled this out of his bag, I knew I had to get one too. At only $25, I felt this was a real bargain.
Harbor Freight Tools
We just pop the hood, clamp the leads to the battery, and it is good to go. This helps make changing to and from race rubber a lot faster and easier. It works differently than a pneumatic impact wrench, as this is actually a "hammer drill." When I first used it, it took me all of 15 seconds to get used to it.

We only use this to remove the lug nuts. We then use a torque wrench set at 80 ft-lbs to secure the lugs.
The torque spec for Honda lug nuts is 80 foot-lbs (on alloy wheels, anyway).
Rather than buying a drill, consider an electric impact wrench FOR REMOVAL ONLY, like this:
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
ALWAYS use a torque wrench to tighten your lug nuts, brake vibration could result if you don't. Not too expensive:
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
Unless you are rebuilding engines, the cheap ones are fine. You are after a uniform tightness on each wheel, not precision.
Rather than buying a drill, consider an electric impact wrench FOR REMOVAL ONLY, like this:
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
ALWAYS use a torque wrench to tighten your lug nuts, brake vibration could result if you don't. Not too expensive:
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
Unless you are rebuilding engines, the cheap ones are fine. You are after a uniform tightness on each wheel, not precision.
Always tighten in a cross pattern as well.
1 | 3
-----
4 | 2
I do mine at ~90% of final torque in the first round, and then 100% the second time round. After driving for a day I tighten again at final torque.
I use 85 lb-ft for a dry 12mm stud, and 70 lb-ft for a 12mm stud with a light coating of oil/thread lubricant.
If you've got a dry 12mm OEM stud that's had more then 150 lb-ft on it (or 125 lb-ft on a lubed OEM 12mm stud) I'd replace it because it's probably elongated.
1 | 3
-----
4 | 2
I do mine at ~90% of final torque in the first round, and then 100% the second time round. After driving for a day I tighten again at final torque.
I use 85 lb-ft for a dry 12mm stud, and 70 lb-ft for a 12mm stud with a light coating of oil/thread lubricant.
If you've got a dry 12mm OEM stud that's had more then 150 lb-ft on it (or 125 lb-ft on a lubed OEM 12mm stud) I'd replace it because it's probably elongated.
This is what you need. Cordless and gets the job down right. Amazon.com: DeWALT DW059K-2 18-Volt Ni-Cad 1/2-inch Cordless Impact Wrench Kit: Home Improvement
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