During my hunting trip back in November, the following lights went out in three days:
Left rear brake lamp (not running lamp)
Left rear backup LEDs
Left fog light

A few days after getting home:
Right rear brake lamp

And now:
Left headlight

My car only has 38k miles on it. I am th second owner since 28k miles (September).

 

Wheeee! Right headlight out now as well.

 

Is there any aftermarket electrical mods that was installed?

 

I am positive an amp and deck were installed. I purchased the car with no stereo in it and with amp cables shooting thru the floor. I know... Smart purchase, huh? Also, I think there's an amp connector on the battery.

I will take pictures in the morning.

 

Here we go:

StreetWires Amp Cable


Amp Cable going to battery


It looks as tho this cable is still powering, burning not only battery juice but also burning into the fuse box on top of the battery. I have no clue how to remove this...

Headlight Fuses


Not burnt out. Also, keep in mind, only the low beams have burnt. Dunno if that makes a difference.

(Option) Fuse


I have no clue what this fuse is or does, but I thought it was worth mentioning that there was a fuse there.


So if anyone can provide some info into the situation, that'd be great. I just went and got some Silverstars for $50 and I don't want them to burn out. Getting ready to do the install of them now.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

So um. Crap...

The bulb is not burnt out...



So... Lowbeams out. Highbeams fine.

WTF?!

 

Replaced the bulbs. Working... For now. These Silverstar Ultras don't seem as bright as the ones that were in there before. More coppery tint rather than white. Anyways...

Electrical issues?

 

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...tml#post790290

 

Most likely its that power wire and maybe some other wires lingering around in the engine bay. best thing to do is remove the amps fuse so no power goes through it.
Start tracking the wires where they go because without doing that you might have a bigger problem down the road (knock on wood). No one wants to replace their whole wiring harness cuz it got fried. Check behind the stereo to see what wires might be dangling as well.

 

edit: Double post somehow >.<

 

How do I know which fuse is for the amp? And I'm not sure I can remove the wiring from my car safely. I am no electrician nor mechanic. I know only simple installations like intakes.

Since the amp cable is zip-tied to the other battery cable, should I just clip them apart and start tugging at it till I get resistance? Then look in the car at which wire is being tugged?

Forgot to mention... After I moved the amp cable around when I took the picture, turned the car on, and the stereo had reset and required the security code.

Also, here's a related topic about failing low beams in '07 Fit:
Honda Fit Lighting and Electrical Questions - CarSpace Automotive Forums

So I wonder what it takes to expose those wires and look for corrosion...

Gimme: I don't think it's the Silverstars. I just put those in, in replacement of whatever was in there before.

 

ahh, okay. I just remembered seeing this exact issue before and thought i'd track it down

 

Thanks for the help, either way, gimme.

So any info about how to pull out that amp wiring and trying to reveal corroded wiring would be very useful!

 

You don't have to pull it out. Just remove the fuse from that amp wire so no power goes through it. But at the same time check behind your stereo if you haven't done so to make sure there are no hanging wires laying around. and that extra fuse if it does not belong on the car originall just remove the fuse. Your trying to eliminate any short circuit from any source that is not originally from the car. That headlight switch can possibly be a problem as well, but we will try to make sure its not the stereo stuff that is causing it.

 

How do I know which fuse is for the amp?
Edit: Hahahahaha! Oh boy... I just realized you meant the fuse that is going from the battery to the cable. I was thinking car fuse in the fusebox. Wow. I am an electrical noob.

And without taking the stereo HU off I can tell you there ARE extra wires back there. I bought my car with no stereo and ordered a stock one and had a stereo shop install it. I watched them do it and they pointed out the extra wires. I didn't think to admit they were connected. Some were bundled up.

 

Alright. Fuse undone. Now the cable from the battery and the cable from inside the car are loose from each other. Where should I go from here?



Was putting some tools in the spare tire area and realized it's lined with Dynamat and there's more wires coming from the driver side wall. Must have been a subwoofer.

 

That red plastic cover on top of the battery is covering the positive post. It's covered for a very good reason, namely that it is the UNgrounded side of the battery and MUST be insulated from the body of the car -- and any other metal part of the car. NOTHING should be connected to that side of the battery and just rattling around loose in the car. NOTHING.

So take that amp wire off altogether. Pull the negative terminal off the battery first, being careful not to touch the positive (red) side in the process. You'll have to reset your radio but it beats blowing out a bunch of circuits.

If you're uncomforatble doing this, DO get help from someone knowledgeable. Bursting car batteries can do serious harm to your car and/or your body.

 

Alright. That is certainly a must know! Since I don't have the tools in my car to disconnect my battery, I'll have to do so tomorrow.

Is it safe to leave the rest of the cable (coming from inside the cabin into the engine bay) laying around in there if I secure it to something?

 

Assuming that it used to be connected to the battery and is not connected to it anymore, yes. (This also assumes that the previous owner did not do anything monumentally stupid.) While you're at it, find some electrical tape and tape up that metal end on the wire coming from the battery; that should keep you relatively safe until you get it removed altogether.

 

Done. Just need to get electrical tape for the end.

Now, the rest of that wire goes thru the firewall somewhere down behind the place where the suspension spring comes up (it appears). I cannot get a good enough angle to see down to where it passes thru. I know it does certainly wrap back behind there. Again, where it passes thru is beyond me.

Also, assuming the previous owner DID do something monumentally stupid (since the 12v in the cabin also doesn't work), am I at the end of figuring this out if the problem persists sometime in the future?