Electrical issues? Lights going out
The short answer is no, you probably aren't done with this, especially if you suspect monumental stupidity in the past.
Basically what you want to do (assuming you are not going to reinstall all kinds of audio equipment) is make sure all of the add-on wiring is disconnected from any sources of power. Dead, unconnected wires in your car won't hurt anything, but wires connected to power might cause harm if they touch the wrong thing.
The big cable connected to the battery is obviously connected to a power source, so removing it is important. Make sure it doesn't touch any metal in the meantime (hence the electrical tape). The remaining length of that large cable probably ran to an amp, perhaps for the subwoofer in the back of the car. Since it is disconnected at the battery, you probably can stop worrying about it as far as causing electrical problems is concerned.
As for the rest of the wiring, you will need to locate them, test them to see if they're 'hot' (connected to 12v), and if so, trace them to the source and disconnect them. A voltmeter or testlight is going to be required to figure out if the wire is hot. If it is, probable sources for tapping into 12v are fuseboxes and the factory radio harness. Check out those and see if you can find the other end of the wire, and disconnect it. Tape up or otherwise insulate any bare ends. Be sure to test with the ignition in the on (normal running) position.
Basically what you want to do (assuming you are not going to reinstall all kinds of audio equipment) is make sure all of the add-on wiring is disconnected from any sources of power. Dead, unconnected wires in your car won't hurt anything, but wires connected to power might cause harm if they touch the wrong thing.
The big cable connected to the battery is obviously connected to a power source, so removing it is important. Make sure it doesn't touch any metal in the meantime (hence the electrical tape). The remaining length of that large cable probably ran to an amp, perhaps for the subwoofer in the back of the car. Since it is disconnected at the battery, you probably can stop worrying about it as far as causing electrical problems is concerned.
As for the rest of the wiring, you will need to locate them, test them to see if they're 'hot' (connected to 12v), and if so, trace them to the source and disconnect them. A voltmeter or testlight is going to be required to figure out if the wire is hot. If it is, probable sources for tapping into 12v are fuseboxes and the factory radio harness. Check out those and see if you can find the other end of the wire, and disconnect it. Tape up or otherwise insulate any bare ends. Be sure to test with the ignition in the on (normal running) position.
All good stuff. Thank you so much!
When I get the time and money for a voltmeter, I will just pull out the extra wiring (if any).
What makes it obvious that the larger cable (that I've been working on) is connected to power? The scorch marks on the red rubber guard? I think this cable is powered from a fuse in the fusebox in the foot well. Is this possible?
When I get the time and money for a voltmeter, I will just pull out the extra wiring (if any).
What makes it obvious that the larger cable (that I've been working on) is connected to power? The scorch marks on the red rubber guard? I think this cable is powered from a fuse in the fusebox in the foot well. Is this possible?
Last edited by uRabbit; Jan 17, 2010 at 11:41 PM.
Since daylight has returned, I decided to take another look at the situation. It is definitely beyond my knowledge and ability to go too much further with this, I think. "/
I'm pretty sure the amp cable comes in and attaches to the fusebox in the footwell.
Also, I remembered this little guy from my topic here https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...what-heck.html

That little guy is strung in somewhere and is obviously getting power (see the light on it). It is bundled up with a bunch of other wires up behind the steering console. One of those wires reaches over to where the other wires pass thru the firewall to the engine bay and wherever else they go.

As you can see, there's many-a-connection wire back behind the head unit!

Cable for subwoofer - this was wrapped up in the spare tire's wheel. The ends were touching the wheel.
I wrapped all the ends in electrical tape (except the ones behind the HU).
This was definitely some monumental task that this guy took on. Meaning a messy clean up for me.
So... Hmm. Where should I go from here?
I'm pretty sure the amp cable comes in and attaches to the fusebox in the footwell.
Also, I remembered this little guy from my topic here https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...what-heck.html

That little guy is strung in somewhere and is obviously getting power (see the light on it). It is bundled up with a bunch of other wires up behind the steering console. One of those wires reaches over to where the other wires pass thru the firewall to the engine bay and wherever else they go.

As you can see, there's many-a-connection wire back behind the head unit!

Cable for subwoofer - this was wrapped up in the spare tire's wheel. The ends were touching the wheel.
I wrapped all the ends in electrical tape (except the ones behind the HU).
This was definitely some monumental task that this guy took on. Meaning a messy clean up for me.
So... Hmm. Where should I go from here?
Last edited by uRabbit; Jan 18, 2010 at 02:30 PM.
IMO the spiral-wound batteries are not worth the extra cost in a street car. (Many will disagree. So, I'm < DUCKING > )
If you often do short trips, they are not ideal either...they take longer to re-charge.
I'd just get the biggest/highest CCA unit you can. Somewhere on the Forum is a topic on installing the larger 51R size like the Accord and CR-V use.
If you often do short trips, they are not ideal either...they take longer to re-charge.
I'd just get the biggest/highest CCA unit you can. Somewhere on the Forum is a topic on installing the larger 51R size like the Accord and CR-V use.
Another good tip is to find an Interstate Battery distributor near you...call and see if they have "blems" (scratched cases) or rebuilt batteries in the size you want, available.
I picked up a rebuilt Interstate battery for another car for only $35 (two years ago) it's still working fine. But I see that Interstate only sells the larger 51R size (Accord and CRV). Their MT-51R has 500 CCA!
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