07 Fit Sport Transmission Issues
#41
The part costs about $50 + labor. It's probably a dealer job unless you know where the switch goes and how to install it. It seems a few folks are having issues with this particular switch. Honda should think about covering some of the costs here.
You should post your issues on truedelta.com
You should post your issues on truedelta.com
#42
My CEL just popped on my 2007 Fit sport AT with 87k.
ODB2 code was: "3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch stuck on"
Took it to the local dealer, they diagnosed it to be a bad sensor. The sensor was $54 + $130 labor to replace. They also said my transmission fluid was black, and recommended two full flushes (with 20 miles driven between flushes) They estimated the total to be $550 for everything.
I had previously changed the transmission fluid once at 62k. oil changes every 5k.
After the flushes the car shifted much smoother, and the once apparent vibrations at red lights went away. I didn't realize how jerky it had been shifting until after the flush. I do a lot of engine breaking and a decent mix of both city and highway driving.
My local dealer (Herb Chambers Boston) recommended changing AT fluid every 20k.
ODB2 code was: "3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch stuck on"
Took it to the local dealer, they diagnosed it to be a bad sensor. The sensor was $54 + $130 labor to replace. They also said my transmission fluid was black, and recommended two full flushes (with 20 miles driven between flushes) They estimated the total to be $550 for everything.
I had previously changed the transmission fluid once at 62k. oil changes every 5k.
After the flushes the car shifted much smoother, and the once apparent vibrations at red lights went away. I didn't realize how jerky it had been shifting until after the flush. I do a lot of engine breaking and a decent mix of both city and highway driving.
My local dealer (Herb Chambers Boston) recommended changing AT fluid every 20k.
#43
My CEL just popped on my 2007 Fit sport AT with 87k.
ODB2 code was: "3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch stuck on"
Took it to the local dealer, they diagnosed it to be a bad sensor. The sensor was $54 + $130 labor to replace. They also said my transmission fluid was black, and recommended two full flushes (with 20 miles driven between flushes) They estimated the total to be $550 for everything.
I had previously changed the transmission fluid once at 62k. oil changes every 5k.
After the flushes the car shifted much smoother, and the once apparent vibrations at red lights went away. I didn't realize how jerky it had been shifting until after the flush. I do a lot of engine breaking and a decent mix of both city and highway driving.
My local dealer (Herb Chambers Boston) recommended changing AT fluid every 20k.
ODB2 code was: "3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch stuck on"
Took it to the local dealer, they diagnosed it to be a bad sensor. The sensor was $54 + $130 labor to replace. They also said my transmission fluid was black, and recommended two full flushes (with 20 miles driven between flushes) They estimated the total to be $550 for everything.
I had previously changed the transmission fluid once at 62k. oil changes every 5k.
After the flushes the car shifted much smoother, and the once apparent vibrations at red lights went away. I didn't realize how jerky it had been shifting until after the flush. I do a lot of engine breaking and a decent mix of both city and highway driving.
My local dealer (Herb Chambers Boston) recommended changing AT fluid every 20k.
#44
Guys the part # is 28600-RPC-003, you'll also need a 10mm washer.
I replaced mine in December 2010 and the problem went away, until recently. Just replaced the switch again and it started stuttering 1 week later. I don't know if it's a bad switch or what.
I replaced mine in December 2010 and the problem went away, until recently. Just replaced the switch again and it started stuttering 1 week later. I don't know if it's a bad switch or what.
#48
I really think this is an electrical problem, for some reason the 4 times these types of issues have come up, when I scan it, without erasing the code it must reset itself because the check engine lights turns off. And the car performs like it did the day I bought it. Anyone else have similar luck and or misfortune how ever you look at it?
#50
I really think this is an electrical problem, for some reason the 4 times these types of issues have come up, when I scan it, without erasing the code it must reset itself because the check engine lights turns off. And the car performs like it did the day I bought it. Anyone else have similar luck and or misfortune how ever you look at it?
#52
rough shifting into 3rd gear
2008 Fit sport A/T 70,000mi and I just experienced the same problem last night. I was driving and out of nowhere it just stuck in 2nd, even from a stop, shifting in to S mode did nothing, and the paddle shifters were disabled. It would shift roughly from 2nd to 3rd gear, and had no power. Unfortunately it happened without throwing a CEL, and after leaving it turned off for about an hour, when I turned it back on, it was back to normal, shifting smoothly, paddle shifters and S mode working normally. Anyway I'm at the dealership now and am hoping it threw a code even though it didn't show up. The technician seemed to be familiar with this problem however, as he has had a few cases come through with the exact same symptoms. If there is no code for the pressure switch then I requested a transmission flush and hopefully it wont act up again.
#55
I need to replace my sensor. How do I do it?
#56
I replaced mine as well. Here's an older thread with some reference links:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...-low-help.html
Good luck!
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...-low-help.html
Good luck!
#58
I know this is an old post but I wanted to know what is the size of the inter cooler you used for transmission cooler. I want to keep my transmission in good shape as well.
#59
2 days ago, my 2008 Sport's (48,390 miles) auto trans began shifting very rough; at first I thought I'd broken a motor mount, but I also had a blinking "D" light and a constant CEL. The paddles didn't work in either D or S modes. Yesterday my Honda dealer diagnosed a bad "3rd gear pressure switch" and replaced it for $236.82 parts and labor. Seems totally fine now. I searched the forum and came across this old post; the OP seemed to have the same problem. I wonder if my frequent use of S mode and downshifting with the paddles frequently in D mode hastened the switch failure, or if it's just a random-failure thing.
First non-warranty repair I've had to pay for with my Fit; not too bad for 7 years of ownership. I use it mainly for commuting when I'm not riding my m/c, and we've got more cars than drivers, so the miles are pretty low.
First non-warranty repair I've had to pay for with my Fit; not too bad for 7 years of ownership. I use it mainly for commuting when I'm not riding my m/c, and we've got more cars than drivers, so the miles are pretty low.
#60
08 fit won't go into 4th
have a 08 fit auto, 72k miles. All the sudden when I tried to get on highway, just revved up like its in neutral and wouldn't increase speed. Put it in "s" shifted to 5th and works fine. 1,2,3, and 5th are all fine just 4 has no response. any help will be appreciated. no codes or flashing d.