Fit DIY: Repair & Maintenance Threads discussing repairs and maintenance you can do yourself

07 Fit Sport Transmission Issues

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 15, 2011 | 07:02 PM
  #41  
DOHCterROOT's Avatar
New Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 5
From: Claremont, NH
Originally Posted by Fieldstone
The part costs about $50 + labor. It's probably a dealer job unless you know where the switch goes and how to install it. It seems a few folks are having issues with this particular switch. Honda should think about covering some of the costs here.

You should post your issues on truedelta.com
i'm pretty sure honda has a good will program that might cover some of the cost after warrenty. i don't know how to find it but i do know my friend is going through it now with his SI third gear set.
 
Old Dec 17, 2011 | 08:24 PM
  #42  
takoattack's Avatar
New Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 6
From: Boston, MA
My CEL just popped on my 2007 Fit sport AT with 87k.
ODB2 code was: "3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch stuck on"

Took it to the local dealer, they diagnosed it to be a bad sensor. The sensor was $54 + $130 labor to replace. They also said my transmission fluid was black, and recommended two full flushes (with 20 miles driven between flushes) They estimated the total to be $550 for everything.

I had previously changed the transmission fluid once at 62k. oil changes every 5k.

After the flushes the car shifted much smoother, and the once apparent vibrations at red lights went away. I didn't realize how jerky it had been shifting until after the flush. I do a lot of engine breaking and a decent mix of both city and highway driving.

My local dealer (Herb Chambers Boston) recommended changing AT fluid every 20k.
 
Old Dec 22, 2011 | 08:55 PM
  #43  
Fieldstone's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 64
From: Bel Air, MD
Originally Posted by takoattack
My CEL just popped on my 2007 Fit sport AT with 87k.
ODB2 code was: "3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch stuck on"

Took it to the local dealer, they diagnosed it to be a bad sensor. The sensor was $54 + $130 labor to replace. They also said my transmission fluid was black, and recommended two full flushes (with 20 miles driven between flushes) They estimated the total to be $550 for everything.

I had previously changed the transmission fluid once at 62k. oil changes every 5k.

After the flushes the car shifted much smoother, and the once apparent vibrations at red lights went away. I didn't realize how jerky it had been shifting until after the flush. I do a lot of engine breaking and a decent mix of both city and highway driving.

My local dealer (Herb Chambers Boston) recommended changing AT fluid every 20k.
Probably a good idea. I did my first drain and refill at 80k, then again at 110k. Got 150k on mine now, fluid is still pretty red. Will likely do another D&R soon....if I can figure out my CEL misfire issue.
 
Old Feb 2, 2012 | 10:40 AM
  #44  
mmm def's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 44
From: NJ
5 Year Member
Guys the part # is 28600-RPC-003, you'll also need a 10mm washer.

I replaced mine in December 2010 and the problem went away, until recently. Just replaced the switch again and it started stuttering 1 week later. I don't know if it's a bad switch or what.
 
Old Mar 6, 2012 | 08:38 AM
  #45  
vag0's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 76
From: NY
Originally Posted by mmm def
Guys the part # is 28600-RPC-003, you'll also need a 10mm washer.

I replaced mine in December 2010 and the problem went away, until recently. Just replaced the switch again and it started stuttering 1 week later. I don't know if it's a bad switch or what.
Thank you for posting I have been searching for this for the past couple of days.
 
Old Mar 6, 2012 | 12:52 PM
  #46  
vag0's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 76
From: NY
Guys the part costs 50 plus tax from the dealer. Crazy how some people are getting charged close to 300 parts/ labor.
 
Old Mar 6, 2012 | 02:02 PM
  #47  
mmm def's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 44
From: NJ
5 Year Member
Honda quoted me close to $300 for the job. You can change the sensor in 15 minutes yourself, don't even have to pull the plastic panel off.
 
Old Mar 6, 2012 | 02:28 PM
  #48  
vag0's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 76
From: NY
I really think this is an electrical problem, for some reason the 4 times these types of issues have come up, when I scan it, without erasing the code it must reset itself because the check engine lights turns off. And the car performs like it did the day I bought it. Anyone else have similar luck and or misfortune how ever you look at it?
 
Old Mar 6, 2012 | 02:30 PM
  #49  
vag0's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 76
From: NY
the last two times this had happened I would literally be leaving the shop after renewing the inspection and boom the infamous blinking D and check engine light would go on
 
Old Mar 6, 2012 | 04:18 PM
  #50  
mmm def's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 44
From: NJ
5 Year Member
Originally Posted by vag0
I really think this is an electrical problem, for some reason the 4 times these types of issues have come up, when I scan it, without erasing the code it must reset itself because the check engine lights turns off. And the car performs like it did the day I bought it. Anyone else have similar luck and or misfortune how ever you look at it?
what code are you throwing? Both times I got P847, replaced the pressure sensor and it worked fine for a year.
 
Old Mar 7, 2012 | 07:55 AM
  #51  
vag0's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 76
From: NY
last week I got code P0756 along with P0847
 
Old Apr 23, 2012 | 11:24 AM
  #52  
SportGrilledFit's Avatar
New Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 10
From: Fort Worth, Tx
rough shifting into 3rd gear

2008 Fit sport A/T 70,000mi and I just experienced the same problem last night. I was driving and out of nowhere it just stuck in 2nd, even from a stop, shifting in to S mode did nothing, and the paddle shifters were disabled. It would shift roughly from 2nd to 3rd gear, and had no power. Unfortunately it happened without throwing a CEL, and after leaving it turned off for about an hour, when I turned it back on, it was back to normal, shifting smoothly, paddle shifters and S mode working normally. Anyway I'm at the dealership now and am hoping it threw a code even though it didn't show up. The technician seemed to be familiar with this problem however, as he has had a few cases come through with the exact same symptoms. If there is no code for the pressure switch then I requested a transmission flush and hopefully it wont act up again.
 
Old Apr 23, 2012 | 11:49 AM
  #53  
SportGrilledFit's Avatar
New Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 10
From: Fort Worth, Tx
Well the only failure codes they got pertained to voltage issues from a bad battery, they were not able to replicate the transmission problem. I hope the transmission flush will help.
 
Old May 1, 2012 | 02:44 PM
  #54  
cakacon's Avatar
Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 49
From: harrisburg, pa
5 Year Member
Thats good to hear it was a pretty easy resolve
 
Old Nov 27, 2012 | 11:30 PM
  #55  
tkoedel's Avatar
New Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 1
From: Cincinnati
Originally Posted by mmm def
Honda quoted me close to $300 for the job. You can change the sensor in 15 minutes yourself, don't even have to pull the plastic panel off.
I need to replace my sensor. How do I do it?
 
Old Dec 7, 2012 | 02:57 PM
  #56  
Subie's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,334
From: CA, USA
Originally Posted by tkoedel
I need to replace my sensor. How do I do it?
I replaced mine as well. Here's an older thread with some reference links:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...-low-help.html

Good luck!
 
Old Jan 5, 2015 | 11:26 AM
  #57  
funseeker's Avatar
New Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 4
From: Illinois
5 Year Member
P0847 engine warning hasn't reset after new part install

mod... please remove ... I've re-posted to a new thread
 

Last edited by funseeker; Jan 6, 2015 at 08:40 AM. Reason: repost to new thread
Old Mar 17, 2015 | 04:16 PM
  #58  
F-it good's Avatar
Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 84
From: houston
Originally Posted by Perrenoud Fit
Changed mine @ 12K with Amsoil and will do the same @ 24K. have not had an issue with the tranny yet and added a cooler too. On A/T it's always extra insurance to add a cooler to help keep things from heating up (clutch packs).
I know this is an old post but I wanted to know what is the size of the inter cooler you used for transmission cooler. I want to keep my transmission in good shape as well.
 
Old Apr 8, 2015 | 11:01 AM
  #59  
Doug Just Doug's Avatar
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 155
From: Delaware
5 Year Member
2 days ago, my 2008 Sport's (48,390 miles) auto trans began shifting very rough; at first I thought I'd broken a motor mount, but I also had a blinking "D" light and a constant CEL. The paddles didn't work in either D or S modes. Yesterday my Honda dealer diagnosed a bad "3rd gear pressure switch" and replaced it for $236.82 parts and labor. Seems totally fine now. I searched the forum and came across this old post; the OP seemed to have the same problem. I wonder if my frequent use of S mode and downshifting with the paddles frequently in D mode hastened the switch failure, or if it's just a random-failure thing.

First non-warranty repair I've had to pay for with my Fit; not too bad for 7 years of ownership. I use it mainly for commuting when I'm not riding my m/c, and we've got more cars than drivers, so the miles are pretty low.
 
Old May 9, 2015 | 04:30 PM
  #60  
Khanj_91's Avatar
New Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 7
From: 27260
08 fit won't go into 4th

have a 08 fit auto, 72k miles. All the sudden when I tried to get on highway, just revved up like its in neutral and wouldn't increase speed. Put it in "s" shifted to 5th and works fine. 1,2,3, and 5th are all fine just 4 has no response. any help will be appreciated. no codes or flashing d.
 



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:31 PM.