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Has coil replacement fixed anyone's misfire/stutter?

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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 05:00 PM
  #201  
uloco's Avatar
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Is it necessary to change the spark plugs too when replacing the coil? I've recently changed my plugs but not the coil
 
Old Nov 27, 2014 | 11:10 AM
  #202  
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Has someone measured the secondary resistance?

We all know the value should be more ore less 7 K ohms, but has someone checked? If so what measurement?
 
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 01:51 PM
  #203  
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I'm having the same shuddering issue. Was told by the dealer to replace all coil packs. Does anyone know where I might be able to get new coil packs and plugs for less than $70/each?
 
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 05:14 PM
  #204  
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Originally Posted by andeano
I'm having the same shuddering issue. Was told by the dealer to replace all coil packs. Does anyone know where I might be able to get new coil packs and plugs for less than $70/each?
you don't want to buy the extra cheap coil paks. And youshould get an OBD checker for about $50 and replace only the ones you need to; all 4 do not fail at the same time. its not normal for 2 to fail at the same time. And yes you don't have to replace plugs when replacing coil paks but it is normal. If the plugs look good and gapped keep them unless aterwards your car shows signs of poor firing, again you can use the OBDchecker.
 

Last edited by mahout; Dec 22, 2014 at 05:19 PM.
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 05:44 PM
  #205  
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Originally Posted by mahout
you don't want to buy the extra cheap coil paks. And youshould get an OBD checker for about $50 and replace only the ones you need to; all 4 do not fail at the same time. its not normal for 2 to fail at the same time. And yes you don't have to replace plugs when replacing coil paks but it is normal. If the plugs look good and gapped keep them unless aterwards your car shows signs of poor firing, again you can use the OBDchecker.
I ended up finding some cheap ones that have a 1 year warranty so I went for it. Going to replace all 4 since I've read that some people have replaced 1 or 2 only to have to go back and replace the other 2 soon after. Going to replace all 4 for a 3rd of the price the dealer wanted to replace them for. Couldn't pass it up. I'll have to let everyone know if it solved my shuddering problem.
 
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 07:18 PM
  #206  
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Originally Posted by andeano
I'm having the same shuddering issue. Was told by the dealer to replace all coil packs. Does anyone know where I might be able to get new coil packs and plugs for less than $70/each?
I found Hitachi oem parts at Autoplicity for $48.50, but they charge tax & shipping.
 
Old May 7, 2015 | 10:12 AM
  #207  
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Smile coil packs

If one coil pack is going the others are sure to follow soon. Mine was due to corrosion between the plug extender and the actual coil (top part). You can separate these just by pulling. I checked all of them and sure enough all had corrosion. Bought all four on Ebay for $44.00 shipping included and looks just like OEM. Not only is the intermittant jerking at idle with A/C on gone, but as an added bonus this little car runs like a top. I guess over time it slowly bogged down and I did not notice. I am happy to have the ZIP back in my FIT.
 
Old May 11, 2015 | 03:17 PM
  #208  
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Originally Posted by lapton
If one coil pack is going the others are sure to follow soon.


This isn't necessarily true at all. I had one go in the early days of the car, and 240'000 km later the rest were still fine. Just adding more information to an already established thread, because, well I have time.


-J
 
Old May 16, 2015 | 11:47 AM
  #209  
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My cars also Have misfire and Fuel consumption is throught the roof. I have no alarm, no Check engine light. But, Thx to the Android app Gaz manager, since last year I log All my gaz tanks, And I notice a pathetic increase. yes it was winter, But normally, Summer driving I'll do 7.8 - 8.2l/100km in city driving ( car is rated at a optimistic 7.3) In winter that can go up to 9L, that is normal for any car. BUT mine was doing 10-12L/100km last winter and it had a lost of power, and idle was bad at time. So now, thank to this forum, I know what the problem is.
So today I'll change the spark plug and check all my coil pack. I have electric connection cleaner, I'll try to clean them first, and Find the one ( or multiple) that are damage. My car has only a little over 103 000km (around 64000 miles), but I do a lot of city driving.
I'll do it step by step I will take picture.

I don't have a replacement coil for now. But if I can't fix it that way, I'll to replaced the ones that are faulty.
 
Old May 22, 2015 | 09:40 AM
  #210  
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Unhappy Coil issue

So a buddy of mine who knows more about cars than I helped me change the plugs/coils yesterday since I had random misfiring for a while. AutoZone only had 2 coils, but I had misfires in 1,3,4 of course. Replaced all plugs, but did coils 2 & 4 on accident. Had CEL flashing after replacement, turned out forgot to clip cyl 4 back in! CEL still on, will check soon. I already have the other 2 coil packs on order.

My question is- How much damage might I have done to either my plug or coil in cyl 4 Running it like that without the clip? Did I ruin one or both? I drove around 30 miles with it like that.
 
Old Jun 19, 2015 | 02:56 AM
  #211  
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Me and my partner have a Honda jazz (aussie) and I had this problem 2 months ago car had 170,000 ish on it and 2 coils, I didn't know till after the engine light came on and it was in for a service mainly the mechanic took a computer to the ecu to check the code took him 4 hours to get the error from the ecu! Something about downloading something I don't know, he said it was best to change all 4 at once (trying to make money) stupidly I said yes but the problem is fixed the brands of the coils are different, I then found the same brand model number off a store on ebay and would of only cost me about 200 instead of 650! I felt stupid, I already took off all the coils to change the spark plugs so I would of been half way there haha. thinking that was the issue. I got the car at 160,000kms, I had the same problem in my Hyundai but it just had the spark plug cables and spark plugs replace and it was all good, hope these new coil things last a long time.

I'm now resorting to servicing the car myself 200 just for oil, oil filter and handbrake adjustment, I just did a service yesterday the same crap for 200 but instead cost me 40! Got all well known brands of course. I also inspected everything and found my drum brakes are very low down to the pivots holding the pads so much for the mechanics checking things.
 
Old Apr 12, 2017 | 04:50 PM
  #212  
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If I don't have a visible CEL, can I still use Torque to scan for misfires? Or, does a misfire always trigger a CEL? I just did a valve job (only adjusted exhaust) and changed spark plugs and about 3 weeks later we're seeing some strange idle behavior. The coils looked a little rough, but what do I know I'm a shade tree mechanic.

Just want to see if I can ID the bad coils so I don't have to replace them all.

Also, when I touch the wires for my MAF the car RPMs jump around and it almost dies. Looks like someone messed around with the wiring as there is electric tape on them...
 
Old Apr 13, 2017 | 02:13 AM
  #213  
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Don't know why everybody fights this so hard,

4 coils 200 bucks
4 plugs 25 to 30 bucks
Valve adjust about an hour or a bit more of time.

It needs done every 60 to 80 k miles, Its a standard service interval..
Dont understand why Honda wont just fess up or at least change it on the new cars to 80K instead of the BS numbers they have now.

Cant wait to hear the griping when the direct injectors fail on people and they get that bill.. LOL

It will help your cat last longer because the engine is running better.
You'll get better gas mileage. Good running engines last longer..

A tuneup on most japanese cars is north of 800 bucks ...

The coil packs on the fit don't last very long because they are on the exhaust side of the motor and the plug galley is right between the exhaust ports.. SO yep hotter than heck, I suspect 400F plus happens there at times.
 
Old May 16, 2017 | 11:00 AM
  #214  
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250 F was measured with thermal indicating label similar to Non-Reversible Temperature Labels, 10 Temperature Ranges:Non-Reversible Temperature Labels, 10 Temperature Ranges - TL-10-390-10 after 30 minutes 13.5 miles of city driving at 82F ambient and a/c on 2nd setting; label was wrapped around coil boot "neck" area (cylinder#1)
 
Old May 16, 2017 | 11:04 AM
  #215  
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Originally Posted by sjlopez
So a buddy of mine who knows more about cars than I helped me change the plugs/coils yesterday since I had random misfiring for a while. AutoZone only had 2 coils, but I had misfires in 1,3,4 of course. Replaced all plugs, but did coils 2 & 4 on accident. Had CEL flashing after replacement, turned out forgot to clip cyl 4 back in! CEL still on, will check soon. I already have the other 2 coil packs on order.
I intentionally disconnected coil connector for few seconds on idle , no CEL despite misfire. Good way to cheat on STAR inspection if no tailpipe test required for post 2000 year model
 
Old May 16, 2017 | 03:01 PM
  #216  
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Originally Posted by doctor J
250 F was measured with thermal indicating label
That's a far cry from 400F.
 
Old Jul 21, 2017 | 07:45 AM
  #217  
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Installed new coil pack today

So, thanks to this thread I just installed a new hitachi coil pack on the #4 cylinder this morning. Took all of 5 mins tops. I just bought the Fit sport 3 weeks ago and problem started within the last week or so. Car has around 80k which seems to be consistent with others I've read. Initial test drive was positive, but will confirm victory after more driving this weekend with the AC on when it's always worse. I also plan to inspect and clean the removed/suspected bad coil based on info found on another thread.
 
Old Jan 5, 2019 | 03:05 PM
  #218  
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Mine's still stuttering/stalling after new coil packs & plugs.

Getting ECM 83-1 error code
 
Old Jan 5, 2019 | 07:43 PM
  #219  
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Originally Posted by homebrew
Mine's still stuttering/stalling after new coil packs & plugs.

Getting ECM 83-1 error code
Bad gas?

Which plugs and gap did you use? Anything other than iridium plugs gapped at .044 or less can cause problems.

Other possibility is it needs a valve adjustment. How many miles since last adjustment?

83-1 is a communication error code related to the VSA. May be unrelated or you have another problem that is causing the car to disable the VSA.
 
Old Jan 5, 2019 | 08:23 PM
  #220  
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Originally Posted by GAFIT
Bad gas?

Which plugs and gap did you use? Anything other than iridium plugs gapped at .044 or less can cause problems.

Other possibility is it needs a valve adjustment. How many miles since last adjustment?

83-1 is a communication error code related to the VSA. May be unrelated or you have another problem that is causing the car to disable the VSA.
​​​​​​​Not gas, it's been happening for a while.
Bought used at 90,000 miles. 110,000 now. I have not done a valve adjustment.
I used 4 Hitachi coils IGC0073 & 4 Autolite Platinum plugs AP5224 (pre-gapped)

The code was:
83-1 ECM / PCM Relation Malfunction
P 0303 Cyl 3 Misfire
 

Last edited by homebrew; Jan 5, 2019 at 08:31 PM.



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