This, the rest of the information here is just plain stupid, and to answer, no you do not, yes, do not need these screws. Yeah its a good idea, but the combination of the rotors and the lug nuts is going to keep your rotor in place.

 

I used an impact driver to get mine off the first time then I made sure they were just snug using my screwdriver. I changed my rotors about a month ago and only re-installed one screw. I haven't had any problems at all.

 

All this talk about not needing those screws is worrying me. The noise didn't happen until I removed those screws and replaced my pads. The only thing I can think of that would cause noise is the missing screws but I would assume that the lugs would keep the wheels tight against the rotors and keep everything from moving. I mean, thats how a lot of other cars work.

I've got a clicking noise/sensation coming from both sides of my front end all of a sudden after removing those screws and it only happens right before the vehicle comes to a stop while using the front brakes. The slower the wheels turn, the slower the clicking. Everything else in there looks good but any ideas?

 

It amazes me that folks are so willing to change the design profile on OEM systems.

Let's not confuse this with a modification to your vehicle.

Honda has designed its disk brake system to a standard of performance - and that means protecting the integrity of their design by following the service procedures outlined in the Honda Service Manual for your ride.

As soon as you start "seeing what you can get away with" you're playing against the odds.

Brake systems are a close combination of safety and performance. Those screws are in there for a reason. One would think the wheel lugs would hold it all together, however, their purpose is to hold the wheels on. Those innocuous little countersunk screws seem specifically designed to stabilize the rotor with the hub. I do not think the tolerance on the lug studs to rotor is any where close to the tolerance of those little screws.

The other design purpose is to aid in removing the rotor from the hub:

 

I agree with you that the set screws should be used, they make sure the rotor is exactly where it's supposed to be on the hub. But the rotor set screws are completely different from the threaded holes for this procedure.

 

I believe the bolts referenced thread into the rotor screw holes to push against the hub and thus push the rotor off. Another good reason to keep a screw in there.LOL

I remember going to on of those "brake" shops named after a tire manufacturer years ago and was appalled when I heard/saw them trying to beat a rotor off my ride with a 3# hammer!!! I was young and foolish, but I knew there was a better way. Car came down off the lift and that was when I started doing my own brake work.

Don't get me wrong DIY is the way to go - if you're prepared to go that route. I'm just saying do it right, other wise you're simply saving $$'s by not paying someone else to f**k up your ride.

 

Nope, separate holes.

 

Hmmm, so it seems. OP has a 2007, ahha!!!

On the 2010 [my ride] it shows four holes in the rotor, two flat screws 6x1.0mm go in opposite locations to position the rotor, and two bolts 8x1.4mm go into the other two to remove the rotor. That would indicate that two of the four holes are empty when assembled to spec.

I will admit I have not pulled a wheel on my FIT. I am referencing the "2010 FIT Honda Service Manual".

Sorry bout that_ Show's you, it isn't always as it appears. I've said it before, good thing I like turkey_LOL

So how many damn holes on a 2007 rotor????

K_C_

 

There are 4 holes (minus wheel studs) on the 2007 rotor as well. 2 for the rotor screws

Here's the my first OEM rotor nice and warped/scorn.


and here's the replacement rotor when I first put it on...


Both have 2 holes for the rotor screws and 2 holes for the removing process... if you ever need to use that method.

 

Oh yes, I went and got more replacement rotor screws and now I'm just waiting for a friend to help me remove the old screw i broke off in there.

 

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand. Glad to see you got through it .eL Wonder how long till you need those screws?? But I now no who to go to when I do....LOL

K_C

 

I'm not through anything yet lol. I have to put those screws back on both sides and pray that next time I hit the brake, I don't hear any clicking. It's driving me nuts.

edit: those pictures are very old.

 

Here's an interesting read on warped rotors.....StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades

 

Those screws are not needed to be replaced. I learned that in Auto School. Anyways, the Wheel holds the rotor in place when the lug nuts are properly torqued. I've done quite a bit of my own brake jobs on my Hondas and never had to replace those screws. They are there from factory to hold them in place before they assemble the wheels. Easiest way to take em off is a fat Phillips screwdriver and a LARGE Channel wrench to break it loose(using the channel wrench to turn the handle). It doesnt take much effort if you use this method. Using a Phillips with an impact or an electric drill may cause the screw to strip because it just spins fast and may not have enough torque to break it loose.

 

Well here's a surprise. I replaced the screws and the sound is gone. As my luck would have it though, now it seems like I have a different problem.

Whenever I hit a bump on the right side of the car, it sounds terrible. Like the bushings are shot. Loud banging noise when I go over rough surfaces. I've never replaced or screwed around with any suspension related parts on my fit and never touched the LCAs in anyway so I find it kind of odd that they would be going this early in the car's life (60k/mi) I did notice that they looked a bit worn a few months ago but they didn't look so bad. Guess I'll see what Honda has to say about fixing this.

 

Well, like I said before - If it ain't one thing it's another.

Stabilizer link most likely or possibly a ball joint. Stabilizer link is the only part running vertical behind the wheel, bushing can go and cause noise you hear. Or a ball joint is shot - check that link first.

EDIT: How thin are your tires? Just a thought...

 

With the link, what am I looking for? I know very little when it comes to suspension parts but I'm all for learning how to figure things out myself before going to the dealership/techs. ...figuring things out with the help of my fellow fit owners, that is.

I looked at the ball joints yesterday and they looked fine, they were dry at least with no holes in the boots. Too bad it's going to be 90F today and the start of another heatwave. Ugh, this is Philadelphia, not Abu Dhabi!

I'm on 195/50/15's. I've had these wheels/tires for about 2 months and the noise just started happening yesterday... or at least thats when I noticed it.

 

You can't check a ball joint by looking. Jack the car and check for vertical play in that wheel. The stabilizer link bushings go, check for play by twisting the link, it should feel solid. I already told you how to ID the part.

Was curious about the tires because advanced tire ware can give a hard ride - not your problem. Sweat and grease make for a good complexion.LOL

 

On CRVs, the stabilizer end-links can knock but you can't feel any movement. Luckily they are not too expensive and aftermarket parts work OK.

 

Currently have the car jacked up and the stabilizer bar links feel solid and I can't even turn them by hand. The bushings look fine. I can't think of anything else and its so humid I'm already soaked