Not a problem. I survived the morning and the weekend is a little bit closer. The best thing is the boss took the day off so that's why I'm on here. The link works. I was able to get it. Thanks.

 

Well, I got the valves adjusted and it is running like a champ. Will hold off on replacing the plugs for now. I'll have to wait for another cold spell to see if it took care of the stalling when cold. Looks like that will be Tuesday morning per the forecast. Will let you know.

 

Cold spell came 12 hours early. The stalling when it is cold is gone. Hard to believe that just adjusting the valves would fix it but it did. Seems to idle better also.

 

Good to know that did it for you!

 

gadget - thats good to hear....i have to look on-line for a DIY on adjustment. i havent attempted it as i havent had time. i will give it a go tomorrow as i will be home for 7 days.....i think thats more than enough time for me to get this done, lol.

well...sorry for the lateness....hope everyone had a good Xmas!!

 

update - yes guys....done!! took me 5hrs....but most of the time was used up taking apart the "engine". i couldnt - for the life of me - figure out how to get clearance to the valve cover. i ended up taking out the air filter housing. it also took me some time to figure out how to access the crankshaft until i decided to take the tire off. once the air filter housing was off, the intake was able to be moved to the side. i had to adjust every valve with the exception of 2 intake valves - one at 1 and the other at 4. i will be honest....this was so much easier than i thought it would be. i put everything together and was amazed at myself when the car turned on - i know....very stupid, but that was a great feeling, lol. took it for a drive and no rough idle and engine sounded so smooth. im pretty impressed on how something so minor can be such a great change to the car. the real test will be tomorrow as i will leave the car out and start it in the morning - im in MD and it should be pretty cold over night.

i was also impressed with the feeler gauges.....i mean...to the naked eye, they all looked like similar sizes, lol. impressed on how .007 differs from .008!! anyways...the only thing i can add to this is for you to try 2 sizes up. i used .007 to adjust, but used .009 as my threshold.....if .009 did not fit, i adjusted properly. same with the exhaust.... .011 is what i aimed and used .013 as my threshold. not sure if that was smart, but i felt comfortable doing that.

thanks again....thanks to everyone here....all the DIY and threads on this issue made this very simple. i also liked the fact that if i had any questions...most will be answered by using the search here. im glad to know there is a place where everyone has similar issues, lol.

 

You pretty much echoed my thoughts. I was happy that it started and ran and was surprised by such a small change could make that big of a difference. I did have one oversight. I forgot to hook up the connector that plugs into the throttle body. I had tucked it behind a plastic cover to get it out of the way and missed it while putting everything back together. I got the check engine light but it was still running great. I figured it was something that would reset itself. I used a friend's OBDII reader but it wouldn't communicate with the computer. I stopped by Advance Auto and had them read the codes, came home, jumped on alldatadiy, and figured out what it was. Plugged it in and light went out. All is still good. The one thing I did notice more after having the engine running smoother and replacing the heat shield on the catalytic convert, I could here the vibration in the center of the dashboard. I was off over the holidays so I tore into the center console and glove box and put some foam in the dash and vibration noise is gone. At 124,000+ miles, it is like a new car.

 

Actually, using the feelers as you described is a common practice for measuring close tolerances. Yes, it could take a few minutes longer, but until you develop the sense of "feel" from just moving the shim, it's a smart way to assure that you are doing it right.

On Hondas, which I always set to the "loose" end of spec, if .009 was the loose spec, I'd make sure that a .010 would not fit, but that a .008 did.


Good Job!

 

Hey guys,
I got my GD 2007 Fit back in 2006, and have taken my car into the dealership one too many times to replace coil packs in the past. Once again, the hesitation, stuttering, flashing CEL, etc. has cropped up, and I'm sure another coil pack replacement is necessary.
I've spent way too much money having the dealership replace these coil packs, and am thinking of replacing them myself now, or at the very least start the cleaning remedy.
I've never attempted to replace or clean a coil pack before, and have searched the web for a How-To Video on replacing coil packs, specifically for Honda Fits, and am unable to find any.
Do any of you know if such a video exists, and if so, would be able to post the link?
(From what I've been reading... it shouldn't be that difficult, right?)

Thanks!

 

How many sets of coils have you had replaced?

 

Replaced a total of 3, at $220 a pop.

I would like to clean or replace them on my own at this point, 'cause I don't see an end to this issue.

If no video is available, has anyone written out a step-by-step guide, preferably with pictures, to share?

 

I think something is causing them to go bad.

 

You have 4 coilpacks. Did Honda replace them one at a time on three separate visits? Maybe they replaced 3 good ones and left the one bad one? Go to an online parts dealer, like Majestic Honda, and order one 30520-PWC-S01 COIL ASSY., PLUG TOP ($64.97 plus S&H). These coilpacks are located towards the top rear of the engine, near the firewall. You will need a 10mm socket wrench to remove the bolt, then the coilpack will pull out. The trick in your case will be to figure out which is the bad (old) one, but all four are easy to replace! If it's still hesitating, it's probably something else, either bad gas, water in gas, clogged fuel filter, or something related to the fuel injectors, OR something electrical that is causing one of the cylinders to misfire. Or maybe it's a plug. If you have over 100k miles, it's time to replace the plugs anyway.

 

Thank you for the information.
The dealership definitely replaced 3 different coil packs, and each was replaced 1-2 years apart. They were replaced in this order: #4, #3, and just this week #1. The first time they replaced a coil pack (#4), they showed me under the hood just to confirm, because the new one was clean without any dirt/dust on it. I also had checked the last two that were replaced, and they looked clean and new too. Every time a coil pack was replaced, the car always ran smoothly thereafter, so I'm pretty sure it's the coil packs failing each time.

So the only coil pack that hasn't been replaced is #2, and I'm anticipating it to fail soon. I just bought an OBD II Scanner/Reader and am looking forward to learning how to replace coil packs.

So based on what you outlined, there is simply only one bolt holding a coil pack in place???
And the coil pack just plugs in and out easily, after removing the bolt???
Wow... I could've saved $400.00+.

Maybe I'll make a video in the future, and share.

Thanks again!

(BTW-I'm at 86K Miles)

 

> So based on what you outlined, there is simply only one bolt holding a coil pack in place???

Yes.

> And the coil pack just plugs in and out easily, after removing the bolt???

Yes. The coil pack is secured by the bolt, but you also have to disconnect the electrical connector. That's easy too. It snaps in, so when you try to remove it, you have to disengage the little plastic snap with your finger.

> Wow... I could've saved $400.00+.

YES!

 

Aah, okay, I see what you mean... it's similar to disconnecting the electrical connector on the Fog Light.

Cool, thanks again.

I don't want another Coil Pack to fail anytime soon, but almost can't wait for the inevitable to happen.

 

Familiar with Murphy's Law and it's corollaries?

Murphy's law - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


In your case, if you purchase a new coil-pack to have on-hand, because you think another will fail, THEY WILL NEVER FAIL. Ever.





So, buy a new coil, keep it handy, and enjoy many years of trouble-free driving.

 

Just clarifying: You don't mean any metallic parts get dialetric grease? Only the inside of the coil pack boot that goes over the ceramic (white) part of the spark plug should receive a light coat of this grease. I think that's what you're saying.

Just want to clarify to everyone that dialectric grease is an insulator used to keep water out (because water is a conductor) and to better stand off the high voltage of the inner spark plug electrode and make sure the spark occurs at the end (where the curled metal tab is) of the plug and not short to ground before that.

 

After reading this thread it's making me wonder if this is what my problem is.

It just seems like every now and then my headlights sorta dim while driving. I'm not on the clutch, Just 4th gear at 30 mph. They flicker, I've had the battery tested, alternator and went over all the headlight amperages with a volt meter and didn't find anything wrong.

I guess I'll check them friday night when I have some time. My little Fit is doing fine at 127k. It's an 08 base 5 spd and I fill up at the same station. (Love my speedway points).

Once I look and confirm, I'm going to go from there.

FML. I went over this car with a super fine tooth comb. It was a nice fit for having 117k when I got it.

 

It's kind of normal for it to dim once in a while. Mine's been doing that since new.