Greetings once again, fellow Fit Freaks! I FINALLY waxed my car yesterday using Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax. I read many reviews stating that it is hard to remove and leaves behind swirl/haze marks. I should have listened to those reviews and returned my unused and unopened product right away.

Meg's ULW is most definitely NOT an easy wax to work with. It was a cool day yesterday (about 58 degrees). I followed all directions on the box and ended up with the aforementioned swirl marks. Lemme tell ya, this is not an 'easy-on, easy-off' deal like Meg's claims. I was sweatin' up a storm by the end of that waxing session! And the directions recommend a second coat, which I did in the hopes of removing the swirl marks. Nope. Didn't happen. So I ended up re-washing the car, which makes no financial cents (pun intended) since I live in a condo and I have to use a coin operated manual car wash. And my work place is about 35 minutes away, so I was REALLY rushing!

I think I'll use up whatever amount of Meg's Gold Class liquid I have, or go with the Wax Depot's VIP Liquid Wax. I used Meg's Gold Class before on my previous car (Metallic Green '02 Saturn SL2) and it was very easy to work with and left a beautiful, deep and long lasting shine and protection. The only drawback was that it left extremely hard to remove residue on black plastic and rubber parts. Otherwise I was extremely happy with the product.

Wax Depot's VIP Liquid Wax I've worked with before and had great results with it in the past. It used to marketed as 'Super Glaze' and made by The Wax Shop before they were acquired by the Wax Depot. It left no powdery residue and I believe it didn't stain black plastic parts. But this was a long time ago when cars still had chrome accents, so I can't remember exactly if plastic parts got stains. Has anyone worked with this wax recently? Someone from this forum says that it won't stain plastic trim, but I'd like to know firsthand from more people before I take another $$$ plunge.

 

I have used the Gold Class and agree that it's good, but leaves white residue on the black plastic bits. I'm now using this http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...ech-waxreg-20/ and think it's a little better than the Gold Class.

 

Pretty much stay away from the big name waxes unless they are specifically mentioned on detailing forums as being decent. I've had a few too many times where these bad waxes haze on and wont come off without a machine buffer...

I used to use that NXT wax on my black mustang years ago with not much luck - too much hazing and it was way too chalky. Had better luck using the two klasse products together, or better yet something I've been using recently is Poorboys Polish w/ Sealant followed by their Natty's blue wax. The Natty's blue goes on and comes off super easy with great deep results. My BBP fit looks great with just the PwS but better with the natty's.

 

I use Megs NXT and Fukken wax. Good combo for me and no issues. Makes the Fit look real good.

I've used these on my other vehicle (2008 Dodge Ram) as well. Truck looks great. Not changing what works.

 

I do agree with koi though, when I lived in S FL there were detail and car shops around where I could get much better products than what's available at the auto parts stores up here in the mountains.

I have used and had great results with zymol, Pinnacle, Wolfgang, and Zaino Bro's products. Almost any of the higher end specialty companies make great stuff.

koi, thanks for the Poorboys suggestion. I might place an order and give their stuff a try. I like that they have sample packages.

 

My favorite line of car detail products

 

Pretty much stay away from the big name waxes unless they are specifically mentioned on detailing forums as being decent. I've had a few too many times where these bad waxes haze on and wont come off without a machine buffer...



Thanks for the highly informational reply, Koi! But before I get all worked up over my not-so-satisfactory wax job again, I'd like to add that I received a reply email from Meg's. Their customer service is outstanding! They offered me hints on how to avoid the streaking: spit shine. Just like my work boots when I polish them. LOL

And that's not all. To prove that the consumer's satisfaction is first and foremost, they offered me either an exchange or full refund. Just like that. No hassles.

I think I'll give Meg's one more try and see what happens. After all, spraying on a little bit of water before wiping off may be one extra step, but it's an easy step to do.

Thanks again to all who have responded to my postings. You guys (and possibly some gals) rock!

 

Never had a problem with this wax. But I never applied it below 70 degrees. This wax won't do too much for your swirl marks, this spring I plan on applying Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0 with my Porter Cable 7424XP to get rid of the swirl marks. When the time comes I'll post pictures and a step by step guide.

 

Thanks for the advice! At first I was skeptical, until I checked the website. Wow. Fukken wax pretty much does it all, huh? And safe for plastic trim too.

Think I'll give it a try.

 

You're welcome.

You'll enjoy it. I've used it for a few years now. Always have a few cans in the garage. Simple to use. I use it in conjunction with the NXT.

 

Spit shine? Can you elaborate? Did the suggest you use a liquid, or actual spit. I don't think I could generate enough saliva to do this to my Fit.

 

i've used this and have like a full bottle i just bought and never had a problem with it, always turns out really nice. although it helps working in a bodyshop and knowing all the little secrets and talking with reps and seeing product demos all the time

 

What McGuiars means by spit shine to remove the haze/residue:

Get a mist bottle, like used to mist household plants, and set it to a fine spray pattern. Use tap water unless you have hard water - then use distilled.

Just spray a 'VERY' fine mist either directly onto the area you are ready to buff out, or mist the microfiber cloth you are going to to buff with (or buffer pad). Use only a very small amount of water mist, and fold turn the cloth regularly, changing to a clean dry one if the first one becomes too damp. It does help complete the final look.

I always used Nufinish in the past, and it comes off great, but leaves white residue on black trim and in crevises. I just tried McGuiars Ultimate liquid this past week for the first time. No residue and no white streaks, comes off easy, but I did see some "smears" or marks remaining - looks almost a bit "oily" looking.

I did a final pass with the "spit shine" and it cleared it up. If I had it to do over again, I would mail order one of the high end paint sealer waxes on line vs buying the McGuiars paint sealer Ultimate synthetic "polish/wax".

But now that I have a full bottle of Ultimate, I'll likely use it up over the next few years and just deal with the extra step (or I may change my mind and change paint sealers).

Edit: They also say to do a 'very' thin layer, and let it dry completely before removal. If any smears/smudges after that, then the spit shine with either water, or Ultimate Quik Detailer.