So upon finally retrieving the shots I took when we did this, I present to you a very fast, economical alternative to removing those ridiculous rotor-to-hub screws we all know and love.

For the un-initiated this is what I am talking about:


Those two yellow spots opposite eachother on the rotor hub between the studs.

Now drilling, torching and all manners of swearing and hammering will do you little to no good and will take a long time. Obviously you could go out and buy an impact driver with the proper sized phillips bit, but where is the fun in that?

Instead, you could get BOTH sides done and out of your way with a big f*cking hammer, a pneumatic cut-off wheel and some vise-grips.

First completely remove the caliber assembly, saddle bracket etc:


Then start cutting a DEEP "x" into the heads of the screws, you are throwing the rotors out after anyways so save yourself the headache and just go to town right off the bat. DO NOT HIT THE STUDS or you will be really pissed with yourself and potentially roller-blading to work.





When thats done you should be left with something that looks like this:


Then its time to go to town with the hammer and wiggle the rotor off the now collapsed screw heads. Then take a vice grip and twist the remainder of the screws out:

 

jesus christ man! i was going to say, use an impact screwdriver like this one:


but since you refuse to use the proper tools for the job, i shall do nothing but shake my head in disapproval.

or you could have drilled it out and reverse threaded it.

 

This was kind of tongue in cheek, but definitely an effective and fast last resort. I even touched on that here:

The one I had at my disposal was broken. ;D

 

I've had my fair share of fun with rotor screws. They are almost always rusted, seized, or the head stripped by previous owner . It was late one night and I didn't feel like waiting until the next day to buy an impact screwdriver so I drilled the sh*t out of the screwhead and wore down a good part of a drill bit. Got it off though.

 

Drilled mine too, then left the little nub sticking out and now call those my "Rotor Spatial Alignment Devices".