If anyone has performed a front brake pad and rotor replacement on a GE Fit,

how in the world you managed to get the 2 Phillips head screws to release from the brake rotors?

Mine were seized and I ended up having to drill them out (yes, even after MAPP torching them and using the world's best penetrant (50:50 acetone/ATF fluid) on the screws themselves and waiting an hour).

This is a really dumb rotor design IMO (as the lug nuts hold the rotor and wheel on).

I will add some pictures later this evening of my "screw removal technique" but it consists of drilling out the "boogered" Phillips screws; hammering in an appropriately-sized 12-pt. "tripled square" socket, and using a ratchet to back the screws out! The screws are toast and I doubt I will put any new ones back in.

Thanks for posting your thoughts and experiences!

 

Haven't experienced the heartbreak of frozen rotors, but I believe the accepted fix short of drilling them out is an impact driver.

No I haven't tried this but at $7 it looks entertaining to try. Check out the reviews (snicker)

 

My question is... after it's all said and done, how worn down were the brakes?

 

Yep.....that does look interesting Steve. Thank you.

That said, I did find a good Honda rotor screw removal tip over at an Acura website/forum for the Honda/Acura brake system's rotors. Nighthawk04 stated the following (in lieu of impact wrenches, drilling out, and hammer/chisel):I am going to go this route with penetrant on the rotor-retaining screws (removal) and a liberal coat of anti-sieze on new metric socket cap steel flat head M6-1 x 20 machine screws (original is an M6-1.0 Phillips flat head screw).

 

Hello Goobers and thanks for asking about my brake pads. The spent OEM Honda brake pads but my fading memory recalls the following: (I will update this later with actual measurements of pad and rotor thicknesses):


Slopster's 2010 Base Fit Front Brake Pads at 70,4000 miles

Passenger-side caliper; inside pad thickness: 1.5-2 mm remaining (estimated) with warning indicator scratching the rotor
Passenger-side caliper; outside pad thickness: 4-5 mm remaining (estimated)
Driver-side caliper; inside pad thickness: 2-3 mm remaining (estimated)
Driver-side caliper; outside pad thickness: 4-5 mm remaining (estimated)


I will check the rotor thickness but it was not worn excessively nor did it have much "grooving" in the surface (probably could have re-used it but I prefer new rotors each brake change).

 

Ive been doing honda for a good time now and after a few times of stripping the screws I found out that best way was the impact screwdriver. Using this will eliminate the screws from getting damaged and is a good investment. I dont have the harbor frieght one but im sure it will do the job.

 

^^^^^^ what he said impact screwdriver ftw

 

If impact driver still can't turn the screws, try the double hammer method first, and then use the impact driver.

 

impact wrench. The hammer type are less than $40 as I remember and is a definite tool for the DYI.
Replace them with new ones if necassary and use good high temp lubricant.

 

I use a socket wrench and a Screwdriver bit. Put the Bit in the phillips screw and use a hammer to hammer once or twice on it. Then get a socket wrench that has a socket the same size as the screwdriver bit. Push Firmly against the rotor with your hand on the top of the socket wrench and then turn the handle with the other hand. The one time it didn't work right and the bit began to strip the screw, I got a larger screwdriver bit and hammered it in there (almost couldn't get it out), then with a little force, it un-seized.

for he ridgeline, I just had the honda dealer "Crack" the screws for me when they had it on the lift and the tires off. don't think they even charged me any extra for it.

~SB

 

Even with an impact driver, i still couldnt get mine to budge. out of the 2 on each rotor, only one gave me an issue. must have been anti seize on only 1 of each side. Drilled mine out with an easy out. Didnt replace 1 on each hub. Pain in the ass indeed.

 

I cut the the little bastards out with a pneumatic grinder because I was throwing the rotors out.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...or-screws.html



Not the recommended way to do it, but effective and very fast.

 

When we did my brakes I tried using on of those impact screwdrivers. We got one screw out but twisted the damn bit on the second one. We eventually said forget this mess and just drilled the suckers out.

 

phillips #3 bit socket that is attached to a 1/2" drive ratchet, tends to work better than an impact driver.

 

Tried to get an impact wrench/screwdriver/hickey thing. Nobody knew what I was talking about at any of the parts stores. Ended up using an old screwdriver and a big hammer. It worked OK...a lot of hammering and swearing, though. That Fit is gone but guess what my new Fit needs? Brakes and rotors! it's cold outside...ewww.

 

it's called an impact driver, $10 from Auto Zone

SureBilt/Impact driver with 4 bits 98103 at AutoZone.com - 8 reviews

with the addition of some PB Blaster, 3 lb hammer and impact driver I'm usually always able to take out the Honda rotor screws