A complete maintenance schedule
#1
A complete maintenance schedule
I am looking to make an all-encompassing preventative maintenance schedule for my fit. Would you recommend adding, subtracting, or modifying anything? Some of the obvious things like replacing valve stems with new tires and new brake pads when they start making noise are not preventative maintenance things that can be scheduled so I left them out.
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE:
Oil & Filter Change @ 5k
Inspect Tire Pressure @ 5k
Check Fluid Levels @ 5k
Inspect Belts, Tread, & Hoses @ 5k
Tire Rotation @ 10k
Check Brake Pads & CV Joint Boots (with Tire Rotation) @ 10k
Check Light Bulbs @ 10k
Cabin Filter @ 50k
Air Filter @ 50k
Lubricate Locks, Hinges, Latches @ 50k
Fuel System Treatment @ 50k
Trans Fluid & Filter @ 50k
Brake Fluid Flush @ 50k
Inspect Water Pump @ 50k
Clean/Space Spark Plugs @ 50k
Replace Spark Plugs @ 100k
Coolant Flush @ 100k
Replace Ignition Coils @ 100k
Valve Adjustment @ 50k
PCV Valve & Grommet (with valve adjustment) @ 100k
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE:
Oil & Filter Change @ 5k
Inspect Tire Pressure @ 5k
Check Fluid Levels @ 5k
Inspect Belts, Tread, & Hoses @ 5k
Tire Rotation @ 10k
Check Brake Pads & CV Joint Boots (with Tire Rotation) @ 10k
Check Light Bulbs @ 10k
Cabin Filter @ 50k
Air Filter @ 50k
Lubricate Locks, Hinges, Latches @ 50k
Fuel System Treatment @ 50k
Trans Fluid & Filter @ 50k
Brake Fluid Flush @ 50k
Inspect Water Pump @ 50k
Clean/Space Spark Plugs @ 50k
Replace Spark Plugs @ 100k
Coolant Flush @ 100k
Replace Ignition Coils @ 100k
Valve Adjustment @ 50k
PCV Valve & Grommet (with valve adjustment) @ 100k
Last edited by josh.scalise@gmail.com; 03-19-2013 at 08:17 PM.
#2
Skip the fuel system treatment, change oil filter with oil change, engine has a chain no need to inspect, coolant change at 50,000, power steering is electronic NO FLUID to check/replace, run the valve clearances at 50,000, check/change as necessary air filter at oil changes.
#7
For things covered by the maintenance minder or owner's manual, just follow those suggestions. For oil changes in particular, it does better than a simple fixed milage.
Don't forget to check the spare tire's pressure occasionally.
Check the hoses from time to time; once or twice a year should be sufficient. Also keep an eye on the shocks on a similar schedule; it's not too hard to let shocks go longer than they should just because you get used to them being worn. Windshield wiper blades should be replaced periodically, maybe once a year or so.
Unless you're doing a lot of stop and go driving, checking the brakes for wear every 5K miles is excessive, particularly if you have to take the wheel off to gain access. If you can manage with the wheel in place, there's no harm. Check the CV joint boots for rips when you're checking other wheel-related things.
It's a good idea to check all the light bulbs periodically. Some (such as the license plate light) can burn out without it being at all noticeable when driving.
There's no need to replace coil packs unless (until) they give trouble, just like the battery and exhaust and wheel bearings and clutch (on a manual) and light bulbs and......
Don't forget to check the spare tire's pressure occasionally.
Check the hoses from time to time; once or twice a year should be sufficient. Also keep an eye on the shocks on a similar schedule; it's not too hard to let shocks go longer than they should just because you get used to them being worn. Windshield wiper blades should be replaced periodically, maybe once a year or so.
Unless you're doing a lot of stop and go driving, checking the brakes for wear every 5K miles is excessive, particularly if you have to take the wheel off to gain access. If you can manage with the wheel in place, there's no harm. Check the CV joint boots for rips when you're checking other wheel-related things.
It's a good idea to check all the light bulbs periodically. Some (such as the license plate light) can burn out without it being at all noticeable when driving.
There's no need to replace coil packs unless (until) they give trouble, just like the battery and exhaust and wheel bearings and clutch (on a manual) and light bulbs and......
#8
Thanks for the input, I didnt know there was no power steering fluid (obviously hadn't changed it yet).
I thought the coolant is rated by Honda for 100k miles, why do you suggest 50k?
The reason I put coil packs with new spark plugs every 100k miles is I can buy 4 for $100, and considering how many Fit owners are having issues, it seems like an easy way to avoid a headache later on. I dont care much for the maintenance minder, Im trying to make something that can be applied to most modern cars, not just the fit.
I thought the coolant is rated by Honda for 100k miles, why do you suggest 50k?
The reason I put coil packs with new spark plugs every 100k miles is I can buy 4 for $100, and considering how many Fit owners are having issues, it seems like an easy way to avoid a headache later on. I dont care much for the maintenance minder, Im trying to make something that can be applied to most modern cars, not just the fit.
#9
Like everything in the world some things are hyped by the company selling them. Coolant is cheap and easy to change and does more than just cooling. You could look at the color and see how much crud is in it by color change which is better than going 100,000 miles on it.
#10
Often overlooked is the door and window seals. Every couple of years you should apply a protectant to keep them pliable and keep the power windows from sticking. Honda has this suff called "Shin-Etsu grease" for lubricating rubber seals, but I'm sure any high quality silicone based grease if applied sparingly, would work.
#11
Often overlooked is the door and window seals. Every couple of years you should apply a protectant to keep them pliable and keep the power windows from sticking. Honda has this suff called "Shin-Etsu grease" for lubricating rubber seals, but I'm sure any high quality silicone based grease if applied sparingly, would work.
#12
A little grease goes a long way. I use a a dab on a modified popsicle stick and run it along the inside vertical channels. I then run a rag along the outside edges in case any got on the outside. I haven't had any smearing on the windows.
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