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Maintenance: 2012 FIT @ 100K miles

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Old Aug 22, 2018 | 05:48 PM
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Maintenance: 2012 FIT @ 100K miles

I'm a few weeks away from turning 100K miles on my 2012 FIT Sport Auto. Did a few searches here but can't seem to find a real guide for what maintenance is due. I have regularly done my own oil/filter changes @ 10K miles. Have been doing air filters and transmission fluid drain/fills regularly as well.

For the 100K, not sure. I'm considering plugs and ignition wires for sure. Should I consider Ignition Coils also? Anything else?
 
Old Aug 22, 2018 | 07:02 PM
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https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...-schedule.html

Originally Posted by josh.scalise@gmail.com
I am looking to make an all-encompassing preventative maintenance schedule for my fit. Would you recommend adding, subtracting, or modifying anything? Some of the obvious things like replacing valve stems with new tires and new brake pads when they start making noise are not preventative maintenance things that can be scheduled so I left them out.

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE:
Oil & Filter Change @ 5k
Inspect Tire Pressure @ 5k
Check Fluid Levels @ 5k

Inspect Belts, Tread, & Hoses @ 5k
Tire Rotation @ 10k
Check Brake Pads & CV Joint Boots (with Tire Rotation) @ 10k
Check Light Bulbs @ 10k
Cabin Filter @ 50k
Air Filter @ 50k

Lubricate Locks, Hinges, Latches @ 50k
Fuel System Treatment @ 50k
Trans Fluid & Filter @ 50k
Brake Fluid Flush @ 50k
Inspect Water Pump @ 50k
Clean/Space Spark Plugs @ 50k
Replace Spark Plugs @ 100k
Coolant Flush @ 100k
Replace Ignition Coils @ 100k
Valve Adjustment @ 50k
PCV Valve & Grommet (with valve adjustment) @ 100k

 
Old Aug 22, 2018 | 07:27 PM
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The maintenance minder will tell you what needs to be done. I wouldn't replace the coil packs until they are bad. Ignition wires are more for distributor cars not coil on plug.
 
Old Aug 23, 2018 | 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by GolNat
The maintenance minder will tell you what needs to be done. I wouldn't replace the coil packs until they are bad. Ignition wires are more for distributor cars not coil on plug.
I agree. The coil packs operate at 100% until they don't / fail. My local dealer wants $160 ea. Even if you buy over the internet, it's a needless expense until there is a failure and there isn't any guarantee that a brand new coil pack will last longer than a 10 yr old one. Loose spark plugs seem to cause more problems than bad coil packs.
 
Old Aug 23, 2018 | 09:06 AM
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I'm at 97.5k and planning to do a bunch of maintenance this spring at around 102-105k, here's my plan:

-Coil packs
-Spark Plugs
-Valve Adjustment
-MTF (I have 5MT, ATF for 5AT is definitely a good idea, props for keeping an eye on it yourself btw)
-Cabin Filter (I do mine every spring)
-Engine Air Filter (Every other spring)
-Accessory Belt
-Brake Fluid
-End links (Okay, I'm replacing these in the next couple weeks because they've already perished, if you hear a knocking noise from your suspension at low speeds it is probably that)
-Suspension Dampers

Hoping that will give me another 100k mostly reliable miles.
 
Old Aug 23, 2018 | 02:41 PM
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Lubricating locks is an interesting one. Not a bad idea on top of the normal stuff you'd think of.

I am so far from 100K .. maybe I'll hit 50K in the next two years! But I have already changed ATF once.

I have never changed brake fluid or found any symptoms suggesting I should .. even on higher mileage cars. What kind of malady does this fix? (Ie what to watch out for).
 
Old Aug 23, 2018 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by fujisawa
Lubricating locks is an interesting one. Not a bad idea on top of the normal stuff you'd think of.

I am so far from 100K .. maybe I'll hit 50K in the next two years! But I have already changed ATF once.

I have never changed brake fluid or found any symptoms suggesting I should .. even on higher mileage cars. What kind of malady does this fix? (Ie what to watch out for).
A soft brake pedal is a result of old fluid, among other stuff
 
Old Aug 23, 2018 | 04:14 PM
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Good lists here!

FYI, Honda calls for the brake fluid to be replaced every 2 years regardless of mileage. I do ours about every 3 years.

On a GD, I definitely would not replace working ignition coils. With a GE, the case could be made for changing them at 100k just because they are much less accessible.
 
Old Sep 5, 2018 | 09:31 PM
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Get a brake fluid tester, One will be surprised that your fluid is absorbing water , this is heavier than the brake fluid so as your fluid heats up from braking it slowly works its way down to the calipers. Water is a not compressible it will give you a soft or grabby pedal and rust in the system at the calipers ABS components.
 
Old Sep 25, 2018 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by JerrySFL
Get a brake fluid tester, One will be surprised that your fluid is absorbing water , this is heavier than the brake fluid so as your fluid heats up from braking it slowly works its way down to the calipers. Water is a not compressible it will give you a soft or grabby pedal and rust in the system at the calipers ABS components.
Actually - if the water remained incompressible the only problem you would have is the possibility of rust or corrosion buildup inside the brake system. Unfortunately, water can boil when it is near hot brake components and small steam bubbles may form. These bubbles are compressible and that's what gives you the soft pedal.
 
Old Sep 25, 2018 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by GolNat
The maintenance minder will tell you what needs to be done. I wouldn't replace the coil packs until they are bad. Ignition wires are more for distributor cars not coil on plug.
I agree with you regarding the coil packs, but IMO the maintenance minder can be kind of sketchy. The computer on my car can't calculate correct MPG within 8-10 mpg. (There's a TSB about that, but it seems to involve dealer reprogramming.) Also - the memory minder and the corresponding Service Codes in the Owner's Manual do not even mention the external transmission oil filter. Many dealers don't know this part exists. (It's hidden under the air filter housing.) Dealers only seem to be aware of the internal transmission filter (screen).

When you have a written list, you can plan your maintenance events in advance (i.e. before a big trip) and group several items together for convenience. When you rely on the maintenance minder you get no advance warning.
 
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