Maintenance: 2012 FIT @ 100K miles
Maintenance: 2012 FIT @ 100K miles
I'm a few weeks away from turning 100K miles on my 2012 FIT Sport Auto. Did a few searches here but can't seem to find a real guide for what maintenance is due. I have regularly done my own oil/filter changes @ 10K miles. Have been doing air filters and transmission fluid drain/fills regularly as well.
For the 100K, not sure. I'm considering plugs and ignition wires for sure. Should I consider Ignition Coils also? Anything else?
For the 100K, not sure. I'm considering plugs and ignition wires for sure. Should I consider Ignition Coils also? Anything else?
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...-schedule.html
I am looking to make an all-encompassing preventative maintenance schedule for my fit. Would you recommend adding, subtracting, or modifying anything? Some of the obvious things like replacing valve stems with new tires and new brake pads when they start making noise are not preventative maintenance things that can be scheduled so I left them out.
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE:
Oil & Filter Change @ 5k
Inspect Tire Pressure @ 5k
Check Fluid Levels @ 5k
Inspect Belts, Tread, & Hoses @ 5k
Tire Rotation @ 10k
Check Brake Pads & CV Joint Boots (with Tire Rotation) @ 10k
Check Light Bulbs @ 10k
Cabin Filter @ 50k
Air Filter @ 50k
Lubricate Locks, Hinges, Latches @ 50k
Fuel System Treatment @ 50k
Trans Fluid & Filter @ 50k
Brake Fluid Flush @ 50k
Inspect Water Pump @ 50k
Clean/Space Spark Plugs @ 50k
Replace Spark Plugs @ 100k
Coolant Flush @ 100k
Replace Ignition Coils @ 100k
Valve Adjustment @ 50k
PCV Valve & Grommet (with valve adjustment) @ 100k
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE:
Oil & Filter Change @ 5k
Inspect Tire Pressure @ 5k
Check Fluid Levels @ 5k
Inspect Belts, Tread, & Hoses @ 5k
Tire Rotation @ 10k
Check Brake Pads & CV Joint Boots (with Tire Rotation) @ 10k
Check Light Bulbs @ 10k
Cabin Filter @ 50k
Air Filter @ 50k
Lubricate Locks, Hinges, Latches @ 50k
Fuel System Treatment @ 50k
Trans Fluid & Filter @ 50k
Brake Fluid Flush @ 50k
Inspect Water Pump @ 50k
Clean/Space Spark Plugs @ 50k
Replace Spark Plugs @ 100k
Coolant Flush @ 100k
Replace Ignition Coils @ 100k
Valve Adjustment @ 50k
PCV Valve & Grommet (with valve adjustment) @ 100k
I agree. The coil packs operate at 100% until they don't / fail. My local dealer wants $160 ea. Even if you buy over the internet, it's a needless expense until there is a failure and there isn't any guarantee that a brand new coil pack will last longer than a 10 yr old one. Loose spark plugs seem to cause more problems than bad coil packs.
I'm at 97.5k and planning to do a bunch of maintenance this spring at around 102-105k, here's my plan:
-Coil packs
-Spark Plugs
-Valve Adjustment
-MTF (I have 5MT, ATF for 5AT is definitely a good idea, props for keeping an eye on it yourself btw)
-Cabin Filter (I do mine every spring)
-Engine Air Filter (Every other spring)
-Accessory Belt
-Brake Fluid
-End links (Okay, I'm replacing these in the next couple weeks because they've already perished, if you hear a knocking noise from your suspension at low speeds it is probably that)
-Suspension Dampers
Hoping that will give me another 100k mostly reliable miles.
-Coil packs
-Spark Plugs
-Valve Adjustment
-MTF (I have 5MT, ATF for 5AT is definitely a good idea, props for keeping an eye on it yourself btw)
-Cabin Filter (I do mine every spring)
-Engine Air Filter (Every other spring)
-Accessory Belt
-Brake Fluid
-End links (Okay, I'm replacing these in the next couple weeks because they've already perished, if you hear a knocking noise from your suspension at low speeds it is probably that)
-Suspension Dampers
Hoping that will give me another 100k mostly reliable miles.
Lubricating locks is an interesting one. Not a bad idea on top of the normal stuff you'd think of.
I am so far from 100K .. maybe I'll hit 50K in the next two years! But I have already changed ATF once.
I have never changed brake fluid or found any symptoms suggesting I should .. even on higher mileage cars. What kind of malady does this fix? (Ie what to watch out for).
I am so far from 100K .. maybe I'll hit 50K in the next two years! But I have already changed ATF once.
I have never changed brake fluid or found any symptoms suggesting I should .. even on higher mileage cars. What kind of malady does this fix? (Ie what to watch out for).
Lubricating locks is an interesting one. Not a bad idea on top of the normal stuff you'd think of.
I am so far from 100K .. maybe I'll hit 50K in the next two years! But I have already changed ATF once.
I have never changed brake fluid or found any symptoms suggesting I should .. even on higher mileage cars. What kind of malady does this fix? (Ie what to watch out for).
I am so far from 100K .. maybe I'll hit 50K in the next two years! But I have already changed ATF once.
I have never changed brake fluid or found any symptoms suggesting I should .. even on higher mileage cars. What kind of malady does this fix? (Ie what to watch out for).
Good lists here!
FYI, Honda calls for the brake fluid to be replaced every 2 years regardless of mileage. I do ours about every 3 years.
On a GD, I definitely would not replace working ignition coils. With a GE, the case could be made for changing them at 100k just because they are much less accessible.
FYI, Honda calls for the brake fluid to be replaced every 2 years regardless of mileage. I do ours about every 3 years.
On a GD, I definitely would not replace working ignition coils. With a GE, the case could be made for changing them at 100k just because they are much less accessible.
Get a brake fluid tester, One will be surprised that your fluid is absorbing water , this is heavier than the brake fluid so as your fluid heats up from braking it slowly works its way down to the calipers. Water is a not compressible it will give you a soft or grabby pedal and rust in the system at the calipers ABS components.
Get a brake fluid tester, One will be surprised that your fluid is absorbing water , this is heavier than the brake fluid so as your fluid heats up from braking it slowly works its way down to the calipers. Water is a not compressible it will give you a soft or grabby pedal and rust in the system at the calipers ABS components.
When you have a written list, you can plan your maintenance events in advance (i.e. before a big trip) and group several items together for convenience. When you rely on the maintenance minder you get no advance warning.
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