DIY - Video how to replace Alternator
DIY - Video how to replace Alternator
I shot a quick video when my alternator died driving up to my in-laws. Hope this helps people. The symptoms I was having were the headlights and center console lights were pulsating - not flickering randomly, but pulsating. Probably the voltage regulator was bad - which is in the alternator.
Last edited by goddom; May 29, 2013 at 08:58 PM.
I shot a quick video when my alternator died driving up to my in-laws. Hope this helps people. The symptoms I was having were the headlights and center console lights were pulsating - not flickering randomly, but pulsating. Probably the voltage regulator was bad - which is in the alternator.
How-to: Replace Alternator - Honda Fit (2007, aka first gen) - YouTube
How-to: Replace Alternator - Honda Fit (2007, aka first gen) - YouTube
Outstanding DIY!
I was wondering about removing those studs. Where did the nuts come from? Or are we supposed to source them before starting the job?
Last edited by Marrk; Jun 14, 2013 at 10:10 AM.
Just use the nuts that hold the EGR to that housing.
sweet diy i followed it step by step and went pretty smooth until now. If I try to connect the power wire to my alternator and then connect the terminals on my battery I get a alot of sparking and no power. I disconnect the alternator power wire and the car atleast powers up. Any suggestions? been going at this for a while
Yea sorry been MIA for a week or so.
The first thing to check is are you attaching the battery wires to the correct polarity battery posts. If you had it out when you were charging it you could have mounted it backwards.
The next thing to check, like most people have said, is you have a short somewhere.
Get a ride to your auto parts store and buy a "test light" it looks like a fat screwdriver with a wire and a clip on one end and a sharp point on the other.
Leave the alternator wire disconnected for now but connect the battery and if it is not smoking or sparking check the alternator wire.
With the alternator wire DISCONNECTED first physically inspect it, the whole length you can see, and make sure it is not "pinched" between a bolt or something, has no cuts in the insulation, and runs free.
Next connect the clip from the test light to the positive battery connection and touch the pointed end to the negative post and the light should light up.
First test the alternator wire by putting the clip from the test light to ground and stab the wire with the sharp end until it goes into the wire in the center and see if the light lights up. Do this from one end to the other stabbing the wire about every 6 inches.
With the key off and the wire disconnected it should NOT turn the test light on.
Next put the test light clip to the positive side of the battery and touch the wire at the alternator connection end with the pointed end it should not light up.
OR buy a multimeter at radio shack and first check the alternator wire by touching the end that has the alternator connector with a meter probe and then stab the wire as far from that end as your leads will let you and check on the ohms scale and it should say zero.
Then check by touching the end of the wire and then ground the other probe and it shouldn't show any movement. If it does then you have a short.
IF all you did was disconnect the wire and replace the alternator and you cables aren't being put on backward then that wire MUST BE THE PROBLEM.
The first thing to check is are you attaching the battery wires to the correct polarity battery posts. If you had it out when you were charging it you could have mounted it backwards.
The next thing to check, like most people have said, is you have a short somewhere.
Get a ride to your auto parts store and buy a "test light" it looks like a fat screwdriver with a wire and a clip on one end and a sharp point on the other.
Leave the alternator wire disconnected for now but connect the battery and if it is not smoking or sparking check the alternator wire.
With the alternator wire DISCONNECTED first physically inspect it, the whole length you can see, and make sure it is not "pinched" between a bolt or something, has no cuts in the insulation, and runs free.
Next connect the clip from the test light to the positive battery connection and touch the pointed end to the negative post and the light should light up.
First test the alternator wire by putting the clip from the test light to ground and stab the wire with the sharp end until it goes into the wire in the center and see if the light lights up. Do this from one end to the other stabbing the wire about every 6 inches.
With the key off and the wire disconnected it should NOT turn the test light on.
Next put the test light clip to the positive side of the battery and touch the wire at the alternator connection end with the pointed end it should not light up.
OR buy a multimeter at radio shack and first check the alternator wire by touching the end that has the alternator connector with a meter probe and then stab the wire as far from that end as your leads will let you and check on the ohms scale and it should say zero.
Then check by touching the end of the wire and then ground the other probe and it shouldn't show any movement. If it does then you have a short.
IF all you did was disconnect the wire and replace the alternator and you cables aren't being put on backward then that wire MUST BE THE PROBLEM.
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