anyone know How To Bypassing Malfunction Indicator Light?
anyone know How To Bypassing Malfunction Indicator Light?
ok here the story..
What i did to my car is I put turbocharger, Bigger injector, Bigger pump, return line, Aftermarket ECU.. ect
they problem i'm having is these"
1. I wont let me pass 2000 RPM so easily (rpm keep going up and down automaticly similar feeling as misfiring)
2. When i do pass 2000 RPM.. the car start to run smoothly.. but if i decelerate near 2000 - 2500 rpm.. it start to jerking again (same as above)
Now I already fix this problem, is acctually is the stock Oxygen sensor from HONDA that doing these (oxygen sensor to match the air/fuel ratio for a turbocharger.. but it failed because it not design for turbocharge)
so what i do is i took/hook out the Oxygen sensor...and the car is running fine (like normal)
but the down side is the Malfunction indicatior Light / Check Engine Warning Light (MIL) LED is ON when took it out... if i put it back the LED turn off straight away..
what i want to know is how i'm able to turn off the "MIL" Light off without putting the O2 Sensor Back
What i did to my car is I put turbocharger, Bigger injector, Bigger pump, return line, Aftermarket ECU.. ect
they problem i'm having is these"
1. I wont let me pass 2000 RPM so easily (rpm keep going up and down automaticly similar feeling as misfiring)
2. When i do pass 2000 RPM.. the car start to run smoothly.. but if i decelerate near 2000 - 2500 rpm.. it start to jerking again (same as above)
Now I already fix this problem, is acctually is the stock Oxygen sensor from HONDA that doing these (oxygen sensor to match the air/fuel ratio for a turbocharger.. but it failed because it not design for turbocharge)
so what i do is i took/hook out the Oxygen sensor...and the car is running fine (like normal)
but the down side is the Malfunction indicatior Light / Check Engine Warning Light (MIL) LED is ON when took it out... if i put it back the LED turn off straight away..
what i want to know is how i'm able to turn off the "MIL" Light off without putting the O2 Sensor Back
first of all, your problem is NOT your turbocharger.
How are you tuning all of this? If its correctly tuned, it should not be throwing codes of making a hesitating feeling nor misfiring. If you ignore this tuning issue, your motor WILL fail.
If the stock o2 a/f sensor went out, REPLACE it. Whatever you are using to tune, the ecu must use the a/f sensor to detect constant a/f in realtime to know how much fuel to add/subtract. If not, you'll be thrown into limp mode, which is why your car had trouble running. Now if the engine management system has its own wideband o2 sensor, then your stock one is not needed IF properly tuned.
Tuning is your #1 and obvious issue here, dont ignore it. Check what codes you are throwing to know whats going wrong first. Turning off the MIL light wont fix anything mechanically wrong.
Putting a spark plug non-fouler isnt the fix here. thats for preventing a CEL for the secondary o2 sensor for "no catalyst/convertor" code. Not a faulty primary.
If you insist on running the car as is, to turn off the light, simply cut the Green/Orange wire behind the gauge cluster connector. I'm ASSUMING this is the MIL light wire as it is on all other Honda/Acura's.
How are you tuning all of this? If its correctly tuned, it should not be throwing codes of making a hesitating feeling nor misfiring. If you ignore this tuning issue, your motor WILL fail.
If the stock o2 a/f sensor went out, REPLACE it. Whatever you are using to tune, the ecu must use the a/f sensor to detect constant a/f in realtime to know how much fuel to add/subtract. If not, you'll be thrown into limp mode, which is why your car had trouble running. Now if the engine management system has its own wideband o2 sensor, then your stock one is not needed IF properly tuned.
Tuning is your #1 and obvious issue here, dont ignore it. Check what codes you are throwing to know whats going wrong first. Turning off the MIL light wont fix anything mechanically wrong.
Putting a spark plug non-fouler isnt the fix here. thats for preventing a CEL for the secondary o2 sensor for "no catalyst/convertor" code. Not a faulty primary.
If you insist on running the car as is, to turn off the light, simply cut the Green/Orange wire behind the gauge cluster connector. I'm ASSUMING this is the MIL light wire as it is on all other Honda/Acura's.
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