Engine Torque Dampers
#1
Using the new mounting bracket that changes the location of the end of the damper ends up putting the far end of the damper not parallel with the forces of the engine movement. The new angle is going to introduce much more than normal lifting forces on that end of the engines engine mount because the engine movement forces will try to move straight backward but are blocked by that angle and that will cause the engine to try and lift to correct the angle imparting lift into the engine mount where there was no lifting force on a stock engine mount.
The new angle of the damper really reduces the effectiveness of the damper as the damper will not collapse straight inward utilizing all the available damping forces. The forces from engine movement will be directed away from the body of that damper upward in the new position and forces will be concentrated on one side of the damper body and internal seals decreasing damper life.
The new bracket looks stronger than the old one and MAY solve the cracking situation. Because all the forces from engine movement are not impinging directly on the bracket, in one plane, because of the new installed angle the forces from engine movement will be putting more torque on the bracket and it MAY start to deflect and deform in the direction of the forces applied rather than clean parting of any internal fractures.
But I doubt it because of the small gauge steel used and the large amount of engine forces directed into the bracket.
It looks like the engineers decided to solve the bracket destruction problem by simply re-directing the forces from direct impingement to offset impingement but by doing that they have reduced the effectiveness of the damper severely.
Good luck and be sure to report back any problems with reduced damping and bracket deformation.
The new angle of the damper really reduces the effectiveness of the damper as the damper will not collapse straight inward utilizing all the available damping forces. The forces from engine movement will be directed away from the body of that damper upward in the new position and forces will be concentrated on one side of the damper body and internal seals decreasing damper life.
The new bracket looks stronger than the old one and MAY solve the cracking situation. Because all the forces from engine movement are not impinging directly on the bracket, in one plane, because of the new installed angle the forces from engine movement will be putting more torque on the bracket and it MAY start to deflect and deform in the direction of the forces applied rather than clean parting of any internal fractures.
But I doubt it because of the small gauge steel used and the large amount of engine forces directed into the bracket.
It looks like the engineers decided to solve the bracket destruction problem by simply re-directing the forces from direct impingement to offset impingement but by doing that they have reduced the effectiveness of the damper severely.
Good luck and be sure to report back any problems with reduced damping and bracket deformation.
Last edited by claymore; 04-28-2008 at 02:42 AM.
#2
There is no possible way installing just a torque damper would cause any increase in "pick up" or any increase in "torque". It's just a shock absorber on the engine damping movement it has no possible effect on engine power.
#3
The shock absorber lets the engine be able to send the torque through to the wheels instead of being taken up by the fluids inside the engine mounts. It's like having solid/stiff engine mounts. THe engien will not move back and forther, therefore, the energy that is wasted from the engine moving back and forth is now beign transfered to the axles. I never said that it affected the engine's power.
#4
No fluids in the mounts they are rubber damped. And the engine moves backward once when you accelerate and doesn't move again until you let off on the gas and stop accelerating. And the amount of energy lost into any mount is minute.
#5
well i would disagree with you. Because if engine dampners didn't do anything then there wouldn't be so many on the market for different cars or engines. I do think that based off of simple physics that they do work to an extent. Its like having tires that when u turn move slightly. Hence why people were stretching their tires so that they would already be stiff. Any extra motion that can be gotten rid of directly relates to more usable force to propel u in the neccesary direction. So all of the extra force that you can get to the ground the better. Especially in a car like our lacking in torque and power. I could understand what u were saying about the mount change, but i still think that the dampner is helpful.
#6
Like I said it does slow down some engine oscillation movement and may help control wheel hop but it's still just a shock absorber mounted to the engine there is no way it does anything major because the engine moves a minimal amount of about an inch.
You can see for yourself, just if you have an A/T powerstand it with the hood open and watch the engine rock from idle to stall speed not much movement. In a manual just put on the handbrake and let the clutch out slowly until just before the engine stalls same thing minimal movement. I know because I TESTED it before giving my results.
As for the why there there so many available.... the same reason there are so many versions of voltage stabilizers, extra ground kits, catch cans, and electric superchargers etc... people want to believe.
You can see for yourself, just if you have an A/T powerstand it with the hood open and watch the engine rock from idle to stall speed not much movement. In a manual just put on the handbrake and let the clutch out slowly until just before the engine stalls same thing minimal movement. I know because I TESTED it before giving my results.
As for the why there there so many available.... the same reason there are so many versions of voltage stabilizers, extra ground kits, catch cans, and electric superchargers etc... people want to believe.
#7
You can see for yourself, just if you have an A/T powerstand it with the hood open and watch the engine rock from idle to stall speed not much movement. In a manual just put on the handbrake and let the clutch out slowly until just before the engine stalls same thing minimal movement. I know because I TESTED it before giving my results.
#8
If you knew what you were talking about you could understand that applying the throttle in those condition will cause the engine to oscillate in the motor mounts showing you how MUCH the engine moves. Straight and to the point if you know what you are talking about. Just because YOU can't understand doesn't mean that other more well informed members will have the same comprehension problems.
So you think that there is a difference in the Jazz/Fit engine mounting system?????
Please do us all a favor and list them for us OK......
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06-20-2011 04:42 AM