Hey Everyone, I'm about to order my engine damper (yay!) and I was reading around on here and noticed folks saying that it would wear out the factory engine mounts more rapidly. I was wondering how you came to this conclusion? I would think if anything it would extend them by absorbing and reducing the movement they used to deal with. I was watching a video of an install on an NSX

NSX Engine Torque Damper Install Video | Car Customizing | Howcast.com

And they mentioned the opposite that the part would help preserve the motor mounts.

 

I'm wondering the same thing.
It seems like it would reduce stress on the mounts... but also it could seem like there may be more stress on everything due to lack of all around movement tolerance??

 

Found some other forum posts about torque dampers.(links below) they all seem to be positive about effects in reducing vibrations and helping performance.

INGALLS torque-damper VIBRATION HELP! [Archive] - Club RSX Message Board


What are the benifits of Engine Torque Damper - Team-BHP

 

Don't know if you saw this thread, here everyone agrees just upgrade motor mounts for better results

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...mper-best.html

 

Yea I think however the "ruins factory mounts" may be a myth. I'm sure replacement mounts are the best overall. But they are not adjustable and a 25 minute install

 

I really was strongly considering stiffer engine mounts or damper for a long time but found that changing out the heavy stock wheels for the lightweight Enkei RPF1s and lighter weight tires in the stock size for my car took care of the wheel hop problems and added a great deal to my driving experience.....Originally the reason people used alloy wheels was to reduce rotating mass to improve acceleration and unsprung weight to improve the handling, allow the suspension to work better to improve handling and ride quality, and improve braking.... Even with the 70 or more horsepower that my car now has by way of KWSC, I don't have need for a different mounts or a damper.... Just lighten the load on your suspension and drive train like the old timers that first employed alloy wheels by shopping based on weight instead of cosmetic eye appeal and you will solve a lot of problems and really improve your car instead of just the way it looks.

 

Oh I hear you on using light weight wheels I swapped over the set of Kosei rims from my last car right after I got this one. They helped alot. My complaint isn't so much the hop now because like you I don't have much. Just the generally disconnected feel I get from the motor since its in there so wobbly. I think a lot of this is the drive by wire. That's why after the ETD I'll be trying one of those throttle controllers. Just between the mushy movement of the motor and slow gas response I sometimes feel like my down shifts are sloppy

 

thought i bumped it up and ask that anybody can give me any insight?

i'm also considering to install this, but i was afraid that it would put stress in some part of the engine block and risks cracking it. by common sense, the engine is not designed to endure excessive vibration, thus the flexible part is the engine mounting. if one were to put a brace/damper on the engine, the vibration itself will not sufficiently run thorugh the mounting and instead will be held back by the damper. as far as performance, i've no doubt that it will give better response in torque delivery to the wheels. but how about the long term durability of the engine block itself?

 

Since I posted here almost a year ago I have to own up to the fact my mounts are going to need the window weld trick fix performed or order some after market mount.... I see a lot of similarity in using a torque damper to restrict engine and transaxle movement and chaining down a big block V8 with a chain to prevent busted engine mounts... It worked well on my 65 Chevy SWB pickup until my cousin who was a teenager working in the family service station took it out when I wasn't around and managed to twist the frame and bend the rear coil spring control arms.... I had cheater slicks on it at the time... I could tell what had happened when I notice the right front and left rear wheels were slightly off of the ground enough the truck could be rocked on the left front and right rear tires which he and his buddy were laughing and doing at the time I drove up... I almost got one of the torque dampers years ago but had read of the problems people were having with them at the time.... You could get used ones right here on FitFreak real cheap back then.

 

now, can you explain more about that problem people are having? specifics please? is the engine movement (from a small L15) enough to twist the chassis? i seriously doubt it, but hell what do i know? so please go in details.

i already have a gd3 specific js racing engine damper. it is a set from the strutbar. so it will sit on the pulley side of the engine against the strut tower bar resting on top and on the side of the strut mounting. but i'm still concerned about installing it there...

 

Instead of using a damper do this.... https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...o_displaymodes This method has proven to be the best way to go and if you still want to use a torque damper these will hold up and will not break or damage the torque damper....