dyno run without a wideband is pointless..

ditch the heavy wheels you might gain 2more hp

 

dyno'ing on a dynojet/dynapack is not going to give you real world hp numbers. if anything it's going to give him more false reading. We all wanted to know the on the ground HP #'s hence why we went the mustang route.

 

If removing the silencer caused a HP drop, so will removing the cat. Backpressure is not always evil.

Which T1R header do you have? You could be working at cross purposes with your power mods. The intake mods could be negating the header, and vice versa. If you still have stock bits, try putting the stock intake stuff back on.

 

hmmm, most reputable tuners use dynojet/dynapack machines. ive read on countless forums and articles saying that mustang dynos are crap but he did do it the right way. set the goal number with the base line stock fit. if you have a stock fit to baseline.it shouldnt matter what machine you are on. but my point being is that most tuners that know whats up dont use mustang dynos. dynapacks take readings straight from the hub. eliminates variables. much more accurate.

and about the cat delete, of course he will see gains from taking it out. the engine is just a big vaccum. everything is free flowing except the cat. its worth a try. there is only improvements for sugarphreak at this point and anything is worth a shot.

 

Running the T1R Responce Header; Hopefully this is not the issue, I was hoping all the mods combined would produce better results.

Looking at the graph I think I need to tune and smooth things out. That will be my first course of action.

I don't mind the Mustang Dyno, it reads lower but when you have a base line it is easy to compare. I could get higher numbers on a DynoJet... but so would the stock Fit.

I might get a cat delete, but I don't think it would make the 20whp I am missing here.

 

I'm not saying that the other two types are inaccurate, but measuring hp at the hub is good for what? the HP at the hub. What about the resistance on the tires on the road, or the weight of the wheels? and using a different dyno now will just further confuse our findings.

but +1 for info

 

so this painful example of the dyno sheet shows us today that the L series is already tuned from factory. any mod on the most part will make you loose more hp down the bottom than what you make uptop so dont bother with that engine. leave it stock enjoy the great fuel economy! plus since when a 2400lbs car with a 110whp engine is fast? ur lucky if you break the 16's with 110whp lol. the only reason you might wanna mod the L series is if you are planning on beating a toyota yaris or some scion xa's?

if you want your fit to be fast get a swap! its about the same as turbo if you take your time and look for deals on parts plus you'll make more hp (a 06tsx k24a2 will make about 240whp 180tq with i/h/e/hondata ) than with a turbo. that way you'll be giving k series eg's a hard time.!

my plan is to get a k24 as soon as my warranty expires. im not even going to bother spending money on the L series its kinda dumb i rather enjoy my L series great fuel economy

 

im making 175bhp on my L15 and im pretty sure i am still getting pretty good gas mileage. k20 swap makes the car more front heavy than it already is and kills handling.

 

yep thats true i love autocrossing so a k series will kill that. i guess it'll be a compromise

 

Well I hope that you are not right about bolt on's personally, for those of us who know that FI or K20 swaps as not a feesible option, simple bolt on's are a great alternative.

I see this as more a matter of getting to the bottom of a underlying problem then a be-all end-all type of situation.

It is my hope that later on I can share my findings with people so that some of these other guys have a bit of a road map to sucsess for bolt ons.

 

omg.......now i'm nervous about taking my shit to the dyno
those numbers are unbelievable

 

Wow, just wow, There's something definately wrong there. 2whp gain and about $2000 in parts? Man, I hope you figure out what parts are working and what isn't. That's half a turbo set-up with way more noticable gain.

K20 swaps are spendy!!!!!!

 

^^^ um.... 2000$ is way too low.

Try more like $3500-ish alone for power bolt ons. Was bought part by part over more than a year, but this stuff adds up. I also picked up most of them when they just came out, pricing the parts out now is cheaper.

And to think, I have been running FSP all summer thanks to these mods... *sigh*

 

^
yeah FSP is definitely a competitive class
seems so unfair now that you have the sheet.
i say come back with a turbo setup or go back to stock and tear shit up in HS

 

there's gotta be something majorly wrong there. if i had to guess... maybe the comp is running in rich mode to avoid detonation, which would mean something is waaaay too lean.... bad 02 sensor?

but, that doesn't make much sense at that altitude. is it possible that at that altitude, lots of NA bolt ons (which just improve air flow) are less effective because the air itself is less effective?

 

eesh 3500 ish. I paid about 5400 for my turbo set-up on the car etc.

 

Yeah I would have killed in HS knowing what i know now. I should have done this Dyno early on in the season.

Altitude has some effect, a couple of horses lost because you have to lean out your fuel delivery to account for slightly thinner air. But again, with the stock fit running along side mine it makes it easy to compare, what hurts my numbers will hurt it's numbers as well. As an example; If I got 88.8 and the stock Fit got 70 in the same conditions I would be happy.

I am headed up to Honda today for a diagnostic checkup. I will be able to rule out a few things right off the bat after this (Props to JDMish for setting up the appointment short notice)

 

Anytime bro!

 

I hope you checkup at Honda finds out what is wrong, but like another poster said, You really need to have a wideband check out what is going on with the A/F, and a Test Pipe is not all the sudden going to free up the missing HP. Otherwise why not just install the cat delete, and keep the rest of the exhaust stock. Other side of the story, is even if a manafacturer claims that the header gains +5hp, the intake another +5, Cat back +5, cat delete +5 and a tune, another +5 does not mean you gained 25 hp. Everything must work together or you might loose HP. Look what happens when you run too big a exhaust without some type of forced induction. You loose lower end. Who gives a shit if you gain 2 extra hp at the top end. Who drives at redline all day long. A good example of when too big of a system is when I had my 06 Mustang GT. I installed a Airaid Cold air kit. It had a part that installed where the MAF sensor went that opened the intake, that you had to tune for, otherwise it would go lean. Place the adapter back in, and you could run with the stock tune. I removed the adapter, and had the car tuned without it. I ended up with great performance numbers, on the dyno, but the car ran like shit without it. So after having 3 different shops try and tune it, I reinstalled the adapter, and retuned. Low and behold, it did not loose any power up top and gained TQ and HP in the low range. Best of all the drivability was much improved, and my A/F was where it should be. The intake was too big for the almost stock setup, and needed cams, ported heads, Nitrous, to really take advantage of the increased air flow. I almost wonder if you removed WR intake manifold, and went back to the stock tune, if you would see better #'s

 

Everything checks out, nothing of interest to report from the diagnostic check.

The Fit will throw a code if it runs too rich or too lean so it is running within those tolerance parameters. I guess the next step is looking into re-tuning it.