Searched and searched and could not really find a definitive answer to whether the HKS setup will work on an AT trans Fit...
basically I found a thread that stated it would physically fit a fit with AT, but would need to be retuned Not quite sure why the trans would be the cause for a retune??? That said, I would be getting a custom tune regardless, so I needed to know for sure if the kit would fit...So I called my shop I deal with that is HKS pro certed. Having dealt with them with my 350Z (APS TT with HKS Fcon Vpro) I figured they would know, or at least be able to find out the real story on whether the HKS setup works with an auto Fit.

They contacted their HKS rep and he advised that HKS USA had not even attempted to fit an auto Fit with the kit and they did not know if would work.

So, here I am back at the beginning stratching my head. Please don't discuss the dynamics of the HKS setup vs XXX kit. All I want to know is definitive info on the HKS kit fitting a auto trans Fit

 

the thing is, if HKS doesn't know then we don't know

it would be good if you found out for all the AT guys looking at this kit.

-Ricky

 

it will fit. theres no routing of piping that would cause it not to fit.

 

if this is the case, I very well may go for it. I am working a deal on a salvage 08 fit with 352 miles on it. If the deal works out, I will have the kit on shortly afterwords.

I am not looking for huge power, but a little help getting up to highway speeds. Will definitely be passing on the SSQV in favor of an APS or Synapse BOV.

 

so if it fits...how do you think it would run chris?

 

probably extra hot lol

 

a nice external transmission cooler would be your best friend! heat kills transmissions. very small window from operating temprature and burnt fluid. I think operating temp is ~180-210's and ~230's is bye bye fluid.

 

not sure how it works on the Fit (or any Honda for that matter), but I know a big problem when trying to use a turbo kit on a AT car that is intended for use on a MT car is the fuel mapping. There is a different fuel cut occasionally that will not trigger an immediate drop in RPM, causing the fuel to slow, and not giving a proper vacuum to a surge valve / blow off valve / wastegate. When this happens stuff goes boom. You will completely lean out.

Another issue with AT Turbo kits is compressor surge. This happens when you try to build too much boost too fast in too low of rpm. All is in relation to the size of the turbo, flow rate, wheel and housing size and RPM of the car. Basically it is turbulent air resisting the wheel on the compressor side of the turbo.

Finally there is fuel cut. On a AT car you will have to do one of two things: Either tune it very rich in the low RPM range, or learn how to drive your car safely around your fuel mapping/watching a wideband the whole time.

Oh yeah, and falling boost. Many times a AT turbo car will need a smaller turbo to spool faster due to lack of ability to disengage the transmission to raise RPM to desired location. With a smaller turbo you will want to watch boost levels carefully in relation to your tune. The boost level may fall on the high end of RPM's due to the wheel's inability to continue producing the desired amount of boost. This will cause your fuel curve to be useless unless it is a self diagnostic fuel controller (which you will not have).

That being said, my point is:
I do not know ANYTHING about the said kit, so I can not give specific information, but I will warn you against trying a product that has not been tested for a SPECIFIC application. there are a TON of factors that come into play when adding a turbo to a NA car, and even more when it is going on a AT car.

good luck, and let us know if you get any more info.

 

I have a very knowledgable tuner and 90% of what you stated is tune related. My main concern is the tranny keeping up with the additional power. The revs will come up considerably faster than on a stock setup making you much more prone to over reving and hitting fuel cut before the trans shifts. This is usually handled by upgrading the valve body.

I have a decent amount of knowledge coming off boosting my Z and knowing what troubles the guys with autos faced when boosting their cars. Just off the top of my head; the small HP gains I would be looking at for the fit application, I don't think there is as much concern with the trans vs an application like the Z. we are looking at roughly a 30 whp gain on a 90 whp base on the fit vs nearly a 150 whp gain on a 240 whp base.

I will contact Performance Factory about this setup as I know of them through the Z community. If my deal goes through with the car, I am 95% sure I will be installing the HKS setup.

In terms of getting rid of the heat, a free flowing exhaus will do wonders in terms of reducing the thermal load on the motor. Beyond that, being concious of oil temps and water temps is a given. One draw I have to the HKS setup is the integration with the HKS Camp2 for monitoring everything from boost to oil temps. I have this unit enroute for my Z and would install this in the fit as well if things play out as I envision.

Keep the info coming.....

 

when you make comments like that, do you have a reference?

it would be my guess that a nonintercooled S/C would potentially be pumping an engine with hot air. I would be curious to see intake temps on a setup like you run vs an intercooled turbo setup like the HKS.

 

very glad to hear you have good sources and a good knowledge base.

I will see if I can find anything else to help RE: the tranny.

 

Did some more searching......
LINK

Basically it looks like there is a iS version '2' that looks like it is setup for an auto trans:
This may not be compatible with US spec cars since I pulled this off of their japanese site. My thinking is, if the is '2' is available and works with US spec cars, that is all I will need.

Looks like I am getting my car tonight or early next week... it is a reparable that will need a few hrs of "love" before it is road worthy. But, it only has 352 miles on it and I am getting into it at a very fair price. I will keep you all informed

 

don't have the reference, but don't turbos typically run VERY hot in general? hence the use of an intercooler?

and rotrex superchargers run very cool, that is a fact. check out their website, and the kraftwerks thread.

 

The thing is HKS has two different types of Turbo kit for Honda FIT.


Part number for AUTO/CVT Tranny: 11001-AH002

Part number for MT: 11001-AH001

 

Because EVERYONE that runs this kit has had Heat issues with it out of the box. Its just a fact with this kit. Anyway... with the Rotrex temperature rise is very low because it is not connected to a heat source or engine oil source to heat up the supercharger. Therefore, minimal temperature rise.

 

Of course a belt driven supercharger itself will run cooler than an exhaust/heat driven turbo... pleast note that does not equate to lower IAT



I am aware of this. To my knowledge the Auto application number is not available from HKS USA. this leads me to believe it is a JDM application only.




in this reference, you are refering to under hood temps? water temps? or oil temps?

without running the setup myself I can only speculate that these "out of box" setups lacked a proper exhaust. A free flowing exhaust is a necessity. It will dramatically lower the thermal load on the motor. Keeping the stock cats in place will trap a lot of heat.

I definitely expect an increase in underhood temps and such, but I feel there are easy ways to remedy these types of issues